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Re: samsung rs21 blues
so far….
new fan
new sensor
new thermal fuse
not changed the evap cover yet but my money is on the defrost heater cos of the ice up after an hour. need to source the right one (for RS21 JGRS) I think the four last letters are just the cabinet finish??? The one for RS21 DCNS looks like the one???
the evap cover has the electronic duct flap and fan (fan changed already)Re: samsung rs21 blues
what reading would I and other with this problem be looking for? total open/closed or a certain resistance? by the way guys the compressor seems to be running constantly.
Re: samsung rs21 blues
Thanks Bryan
to clarify for others with the same problem…
there is not solid ice in the drain so as Bryan says it’s probably not a drain heater fault (there is a little ice in the channels that slope to the hole though).
The evaporator ices up in about an hour. Main suspect now the evaporator heater. (Or could this be a fault on the pcb not triggering a defrost cycle?)
My RS21 JGRS (seems a fairly rare model – I think the letters at the end refer to the painted finish etc). as above has a special servo flap near the top inside the evaporator cover as well as the fan as this may be faulty too so I am advised to get a new cover assembly (fan already changed as above).
If anyone thinks I’m way off please shout – the milks been warm for a week now!
Re: samsung rs21 blues
OK, having now replaced three parts without success I am going to replace the drain heater and cover assembly – I have just noticed what looks like another heater fed within the evaporator coils, it is powered by the mid of the three sockets, same as drain heater via a splitting block – is this a second heater as well as the drain heater?
Re: samsung rs21 blues
Dales-Electronic wrote:Obviously from time to time fan motors burn out – cant say I’ve seen more than the odd one in the two years we’ve been authorised to service them. However, if its any comfort to you the evaporator cover comes complete with a new fan fitted and this usually clears the fault unless you have a defrost heater fault.
as I said theres a new fan fitted already, it was the first thing I changed as the original ice up suggested a burn out to me. I have now checked by hooking up all components such that I can see the fan and it is in fact running intermittently which I assume is normal.
the current situation is (with all components re-fitted as per normal)
fan – OK, seen it run
sensor – new so assumed OK
thermal fuse – new so assumed OK
cool zone set for -1 but clearly not at this temp.
cover assembly, no ice (but wet) new foam tape fitted to seal ducts, all airways seem clear. ‘servo’ style flap in top centre is open (guessing this is something to do with power cool).
Freezer steady -20 on display, fridge now +18 though set at target of +4
My main suspect therefore is now the defrost heater – would this make sense to you? From a thawed state on the fridge side the evaporator ices up in about an hour. BUT what confuses me is surely the fridge would be cold, too cold, if this was failing (unless airflow is blocked very quickly due to the ice up of the evap).
Thanks again – mystified as apart from the heater and cover (which has been re-sealed) pretty much all has been changed. Bottom central bar still showing but I understand this is not a ‘live’ report merely an indication of a fault occuring (I heard it resets after a while??)
Re: samsung rs21 blues
very helpful, I need a new evap cover anyway as it’s been on and off so much now I am sure you are correct, the insulation is very tatty/squashed up. Why would an entire cover be needed, would new strips of insulation not do it? The polystyrene will be good as new surely?
Only worry is that despite new sensor, new thermal fuse and new fan I am not convinced the fan is running – the evaporator gets iced up very quickly presumably as there is no airflow. Could there be other reasons for the fan to stop?
My thermal fuse lead is plugged in to the top socket and the sensor at the bottom (defrost heater middle). The units are exactly where the originals were ie in the white clip (sensor) top left evaporator and the fuse is behind on the bottom right.
