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Re: Bosch oven went ‘pop’ (HBA63A250B /02 FD9001)
Thanks for the reply – I bet you’re right, but not knowing what to swap makes this difficult to sort out.
Looking at the prices of the other boards I think I know where this might end:
PSU £70
Operating module (behind the display) £110
The one rotary control £26
The other rotary control £41That’s £247. Added to the £80 I just spent, that is way more than half the price of a new one. My guess is that it’ll be the operating module – most complex and central part. But it could be the whole lot.
I could call someone in to look at it, but if it is just the operating module and I have to pay for the labour, it probably isn’t worth the cost for an eight year old oven.
I’m not sure i’ll put a bulb in an oven again. I’m actually rather disappointed that something as simple as a blown bulb has wrecked the whole oven.
Re: Bosch oven went ‘pop’ (HBA63A250B /02 FD9001)
Well, I ordered a replacement board from https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/ and swapped it over, but this hasn’t brought the oven back to life. I’m happy that I have made the swap correctly – I’ve checked the wiring several times.
When I power the oven up, nothing happens: no display. When I adjust the controls: nothing happens. No relay clicks, no fans. I think I expect the latter because I haven’t set the clock – but having no display makes doing so hard. Pressing any of the controls on the display panel yields no response.
There are only two other boards to swap out: the display or the power supply.
If the power supply was broken, the oven wouldn’t work. It looks pretty simple: AC in DC out. If I knew the pinouts then I could test for the correct DC voltages. Is there a way to find the pinout? It has a five pin connector between the PSU and the main board.
The display is more complex and is connected to the two rotary controls on the front panel. If the power supply was working ok, maybe the display / controls have faults.
Any suggestions how to proceed, including “stop wasting your time and just call a service engineer”..?
Am I overlooking anything?
Re: Hoover HW130M UK washer/dryer: thermostat keeps tripping
Much cleaning: big clod of ‘grey’ in the rubber hose at the bottom of the condenser unit which connects to the drum (below the main condenser unit to drum connection). Cleaned the condenser unit itself with a bottle brush and de-fluffed the vanes of the fan. Checked the water input at the top of the condenser and it’s clear too.
I’ll see what it’s like now. Next step might be to replace all the thermostats.
This seems to fit the bill for the resettable stats: http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … ostat.html but I can’t find anything for the non-resettable device. Any clues..?
Also noticed the drum housing was cracked, which probably isn’t related: viewtopic.php?f=33&t=38450
Re: Hoover HW130M UK washer/dryer: thermostat keeps tripping
See picture – right side of the photo is the front.
There’s two resettable thermostats: one at the back and one at the front. There’s also what I assume is a non-resettable thermostat at the front.
It’s the resettable one at the front which keeps popping.
Is what I think is the non-resettable thermostat the cycling stat..? Is there any way of testing a cycling stat – i’m not quite clear on it’s purpose in life. Are you suggesting the cycling stat is responsible for maintaining a reasonable temperatue and that it might be indicating, all the time, that there isn’t enough heat and the resettable thermostat trips because the cycling stat isn’t doing it’s job..?
If I look very carefully at the picture it looks like the resettable thermostat at the back and the non-resettable stat at the front are wired in series. Does that make any sense..? The front resettable thermostat looks like it controls power to both elements.
I could do with a wiring diagram for this beast…
[ I take pictures of everything before I start any job so I can figure out where all the left over bits go.. 8O]
Re: Hoover HW130M UK washer/dryer: dryer not working
In fact the heater box was totally clear. On closer inspection the place where the plastic condenser box fits into the back of the drum housing was almost completely clogged with ‘grey’. After some disassembly, I removed the ‘grey’ (and I really don’t want to think what that slimy, soggy mess was..!) and I hope that will do the trick. Haven’t tried it yet because the sealer stuff is still setting on the condenser / drum housing gasket. Glad I bought that!
I guess it would be cool for these sort of machines to have a little opening panel in the back, with a corresponding panel in the condenser box to allow easy regular cleaning, instead of a couple of hours of work! But then I am the sort of chap who adjusts carburettors at the weekend for fun..!
Re: Hoover HW130M UK Washer Dryer – motor not running
So I replaced the brushes (bought from the store on this site), cleaning the commutator as I did so (with the comm stick from this site) and the machine is now happily washing away. I took the opportunity to clean the filth out of the condenser so hopefully the drying efficiency will be restored also.
Thanks for your help – the parts cost me less than a call out fee!
Re: Hoover HW130M UK Washer Dryer – motor not running
The belt is on. I can see both brushes but I can only see where one of them touches the commutator (the other is too far under the motor for my torh and mirror arrangement to work). The brush I can see hasn’t got a nice square end – it’s worn into a fairly steep angle.
Just to run the idiot check, I started the machine up again and the motor ran for a few seconds, but I noticed alot of sparks from the commutator end of the motor and some crackling noises. Once the motor had stopped, all the sparks and crackling stopped.
I don’t know exactly where this leads me. I’m tempted to guess the brushes are shot, order a new set and commutator cleaner and replace them, including cleaning the communtator. I’ll need to remove the motor anyway to eyeball the other brush. I don’t want to just do the obvious thing just because it’s something I can do though – it might not be the fault.
What do you think..?
