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Re: hotpoint wd440 drying problem
MORNING,sounds as if there is no air circulating,either the filter in the dry manifold is blocked /fan circulation motor is faulty,resistance reading for fan coil should be approx40ohms/fan itself has become jammed/detached from motor. condenser solenoid coil on inlet valve open/short circuit reading should be approx 3.5kohms. getting access to circulation fan means splitting air duct manifold torx 25 if i remember.getting access to the filter is by removing the grey pipe off filter and removing the manifold from the tank,again torx 30 i think.solenoid coil is found on inlet valve but means isolating water supply to valve,and removing valve from the back of the cabinet.the solenoid coil is the one with the grey pipe to it. BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY OF THE ABOVE REMOVE PLUGTOP FROM POWER SUPPLY hope this helps.
Re: Hotpoint WMA40 spin problem
EVENING DAVE,probably is the brushes buddy,you can either remove the motor itself from the rear of the cabinet and removing both the drive belt and wiring harness or you can bring the washer forward and tip backwards,WITH THE PLUGTOP REMOVED FROM THE POWER SOCKET!!!!you can gain access from the front,the top brush can be a bit of a fiddle,regards taffska.
Re: AEG Lavamat 74530W stops during the program without erro
Raj55 wrote:Thanks for this post. I had exactly the same problem with my AEG oko lavamat washer after 13 years and followed your instruction. I have yet to test it. The circuit board was in exactly the same condition as yours. Cleaned it with circuit board cleaner fluid. Incidently the top cover in these machines are slided bacwards after removing the two screws at t he rear. I Will post a new message if it works on test.
what circuit board cleaner did you use?many thanks taffska.
Re: Howdens HJA8362 door issue
fangsnatcher wrote:Hi all’
I’ve had the the above dishwasher for about 4 years now with no problems.
It has recently developed 2 faults. The first is it starts immediatly the start button is pressed and wont shut off if the door is opened as it should. i’ve noticed that the door shutting is’nt as “postive” as it once was (there was a click before).
At more or less the same time it has developed a leak at the lower corners of the door. the seal looks intact and is clean as are all filters.
Please help as the thing is currently booking an appointment with Mr Sledgehammer and facing a Viking burial!
h
many tha
Phildoor lock broken,you need to replace it,make sure the appliance is switched off before you start!if the door does not close properly it’s leaking a quarter the way up the door(air gap)but please check the hinge pins on both left and right hand side.if you’r unsure about the wrap around door seal just replace it.hope this helps.Re: Hotpoint WMD 740 motor problem
PaulN wrote:I wonder if any one can shed any light on this problem.
My step daughters Hotpoint WMD 740 has a strange running problem. Machine fills ok but when the drum tries to start it is jerky and stops again. It then repeats this continuously until it is stopped. Its almost like it is waiting for some sort of confirmation that the drum is moving, does not get it and stops.
I have checked all is free. The motor brushes and comm were looking poor, as if the brushes were stuck. they were not and are not worn much at all.
The machine is only two years old.
Any ideas?Thanks,
Paulevening,please check the motor connection block,i’ve had the cables break in there before now.bad news it could be the module……
Re: Hotpoint HVL211 not spinning
Kayloo wrote:Yeah I forgot to mention, I have already checked the filter and cleaned it as much as I can in there but it does still do it
any water left in the drum? if not drain pump doing it’s job…check motor brushes also resistance reading on inlet coil/valve should read approx4kohms if you’r in a hard water area check wash heater±wash ntc should read approx 30ohms for heater and 20kohms for ntc.hope this helps.take care.keep safe.
Re: Hotpoint WDL 520G not drying
confusedagain wrote:Hi. Machine is working fine apart from not drying clothes in dryer cycle. When using dryer at weekend, main trip went on house electrics. reset trip and all ok other than not drying when tried since. Having read numerous articles it could be a problem with Dryer Heater element, Thermostat, Capacitor or PCB. Any suggestions on which to check first? Does tripping power suggest one ahead of another? There’s no flashing lights or error messages showing. Any help much appreciated. Thanks
sounds very much like the dry heater normally fitted in the heater manifold on the top of the appliance.should read 30ohms on a meter,but also check the thermal fuse/thermostat,(continuity on test) keep safe regards taffska.
Re: Hotpoint WF740TB – sealed drum?
Chris_B wrote:I have a Hotpoint WF740TB, bought in 2006, and the drum bearings are on the way out. It does say WF740TB on the label, but I can’t find any reference to the TB variant. I’ve replaced bearings on older models but I fear this may have a non-separable drum.
From what I can see with just the lid off, the two halves of the drum are fixed together by something other than screws, although there seems to be some kind of interlocking catch at about 3 o’clock.
Does this mean I can’t change the bearings and need a new drum? If so that would probably be a poor investment on a 7 year old machine (a badged Indesit I understand and may be lucky to have lasted this long?) so it may be a new machine.does the outer drum look white…..ish in colour? if it is,then it could be a sealed drum,if you live in a hard water area then you WILL need to replace the wash heater,ntc,door seal and drive belt!!!!!!!! if you have had 7years out of it already then it might be worthwhile to purchase new………..sorry.
Re: help please… is my pump faulty
timoteo wrote:Hi,
machine: hotpoint aqualtis AQM8L29I washer dryer.the problem : will not drain.
checked: no blockages,
pump resistance across the terminals. 229 ohms. (I saw on youtube that it should be 160 ish)
shoved a multimeter on pump terminals, reads 4 to 5 volts. When filled with water and drain cycle selected voltage spikes to 130 then it sounds like a relay trips and it immediately returns to 4 to 5 volts. (is that because the pump is not connected or is the problem in the feed?).Would be very grateful for any suggestions. I hope it is something simple like the pump but I don’t want to spend money on the pump if that is not the problem.
Any ideas.
Thanks very much for taking the time to read this….sounds as if it might be a short circuit coil,pump will still try to work when short circuit,resistance reading is very high for a coil?it might have effected the main pcb board in which case you will have to replace and then programme it!! another culprit on that appliance is that they use a frequency pressure switch,they can sometimes be a bit silly.if appliance is under 5yrs old you have a parts warranty with the manufacturer,might be worth ringing them,they will offer you a insurance repair policy which will cost you £150.00but will cover the whole appliance for a year.do you live in a hard water area? if so check wash heater ntc?also check the wiring onto the dry heater ntc,which is housed in the dry manifold(just b4 it goes into the door seal) you’r looking at approx 20kohms if either goes open/short circuit they produce stupid faults,hope this helps,regards taffska
