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Thanks, Andy. That’s really helpful. I’m going to run some “real world” tests this weekend to check that actual flow through each of the solenoids. I’ve already stripped down the soap dispenser and cleaned out the pipes / dispenser inlet and jets, so it seems likely that it’s the solenoid that’s got a mechanical fault.
Thanks – will do some testing this week. Good point about them being affected by the water pressure.
Hi Dave,
Some weeks ago, I put a meter across the solenoids to measure resistance and they both appeared to be OK (can’t remember exactly but several kOhm from memory). I haven’t tested them any further. I guess I could connect the water supply and put 240v across the terminals then measure the time to fill a 10 litre bucket..
The reason I didn’t suspect the solenoids was because the E10 error only happens sometimes.
Thanks for your continuine advice!
Tim
OK – so I took the analogue pressure switch off and measured the resistance when blowing into the tube (which wasn’t blocked). It stayed open circuit. Does this suggest that it’s likely to be faulty and worth replacing?
So, I’m still not getting anywhere with the periodic E10 error on my AEG Protex (L76475FL). Key info as follows:
- The E10 only appears sometimes (approx. 4 out of every 10 washes)
- It can appear on any programme
- The E10 will always happen at the same point in the cycle (29 minutes left on standard 40 degree wash with time save). However, sometimes that programme will complete with no errors.
- I measured resistance of both water inlet valves and both were showing an impedance of a few tens of ohms suggesting they are OK.
- I’ve thoroughly cleaned the inlet filter, pipes, dispenser housing and drawer and confirmed there are no blockages
- I get an occasional EFO (excessive foam) error, but that may be unrelated.
Are there sensors that detect water flow / drum level and if so might one of those be on its way out?
Any suggestions about what to test next would be very welcome!
Thank-you,
Tim
Hi Dave, Finally got around to looking at this. I’m pleased to say that your suggestion was spot on. There was a very obvious dry joint on the heater relay so a nice easy fix (see photo). The dishwasher is now working perfectly and I’m looking forward to another 15 years trouble free service!!
https://share.icloud.com/photos/07fabqKMEDCjeecEUaCQMx-1QThanks so much for your advice. It’s really appreciated.
TimThanks, Dave. I’ll have a go at re-soldering the heater relay at some point this week and let you know if that fixes the problem.
TimHi Dave,
Thanks for your reply and suggestions.
I’ve tried adding a kettle full of cold water but still no joy. As far as I can see, there was already plenty of water in the machine and it the spray arms were happily sending it flying round the machine. Here’s a quick video of it *before* I added the kettle full of cold water.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Qby5YbeUllY?feature=shareAny other ideas? Would a photo of the fill circuits on the left hand side of the machine help?
Is the heater safety pressure switch part of the water heater assembly?Tim
P.S. Thanks for deleting the other post. I’ve also got a faulty (20 year old) Hoover tumble dryer at the moment, so was getting confused 🙂Re: Hoover HDC6 Dryer Start problem (not Relay PCB!)
Hi Suedehead1,
Thanks for your reply. The new board I ordered worked fine when I first fitted it, but stopped working about a week later (motor only running when start button held in). I then replaced just the relay on the original board and put that back in, thinking that was the most likely component to fail, but that didn’t work either.
Anyway, I took the risk and ordered a second new relay PCB and fitted that and the dryer works fine and has been for the last week, so fingers crossed this has solved the problem. I guess I was just unlucky with the first one. Sparesmarket have refunded me for it anyway.
Thanks,
Tim
