[TrickyRikki88]

Sorry guys i thought id replied to this, i sorted it out. In the end i pulled the machine apart and ran the pump independently to rule that one out which was working fine, i then removed all hoses from the pump right up to drain outlet and found a piece of lego stuck sideways in the drain hose causing an obstruction, this had then obviously caught other debris over the years and eventually blocked it. Cleaned the hose out and its been fine ever since 🙂

[TrickyRikki88]

electrofix wrote:have you opened the filter and check both the filter and the pump impellor for obstuctions. the pump impellor is at the back of the filter housing

Dave

Hello Dave,

yes I opened filter and checked filter and impeller. Both was fine and clear, since my first post I pulled the machine out to check for anything obvious, the outlet pipe was quite blocked so I cleaned the pipe out and ran through a quick wash and everything seemed good, the water was pumped away into a bucket, put machine back in place and ran through a wash with clothes in which seemed to work but then on the second load the machine didn’t drain again so I ran a spin and drain which drained some of the water out but still not emptying the drum, it drains enough for the door release to disengage but not fully draining meaning the clothes are sitting in a few inches of water.

[TrickyRikki88]

Djollir wrote:Hi
My fridge/freezer stops cooling. The ice trays would melt back to water. When I switch the power off and then back on, the cooling/freezing process begins and the ice trays start freezing. However after a few hours, the cooling stops as evidenced by the ice melting back to water.

From various bits of research and chats, it looks like the problem may be to do with a heater, a thermal fuse or a defrost sensor.

Since this is happening at a very awkward time (with Covid-19) its understandably unlikely I’d get an expert to sort this out. I’m located near Mold and Chester, in North Wales.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how or if I should do this myself or should I just give up and get a new appliance?

Many thanks…

How old is the unit? And how confident are you with electrical testing?

[TrickyRikki88]

Shuggie_h wrote:Hi,

I have Samsung RSH1DBRS side by side American style fridge freezer which has developed an issue yesterday.

We hadn’t had the ice maker set to cubed or crushed for a while, and my daughter has used up all of the ice in the hopper.

I changed the setting for it to make ice and it make the usual electrical noises like it was doing the right thing. Later on tried to get ice but the hopper was still empty.

I pulled up the hopper to have a look and found that the ice cube tray was full of ice cubes. I don’t know how to initiate the motor to twist the tray as it should to empty itself into the hopper, and any changes I make to the buttons on the front of the machine don’t make any difference I’m afraid…

Any advice or info on what I can do to rectify this problem would be much appreciated…

Thanks in advance

Shuggie

Hello Shuggie,

If you havent used the ice maker for a little while the cubes may have slightly defrosted and then refrozen (i have had similar issues on commercial units)

If possible try and remove the ice by hand or hot water and then leave the unit to make more ice and re-try it again

[TrickyRikki88]

Hello Thomas, sorry for the delay.

Tony is correct that is just putty to stop the cap pipe from rubbing.
The second photo looks like the bottom of the evap plate although its not a great picture to work out from.(viewing on a phone)

When you removed the ice how did you do it exactly? you said you managed to remove the ice as a slab?

[TrickyRikki88]

Thomas Patrick wrote:Hi,

I have recently been having problems with the fridge freezer and due to recent lay offs, we cannot afford a new one, so I need to fix it.

Two weeks ago the freezer got gradually warmer all day and the food started to defrost. Eventually it seemed to fix itself, I messed around a little, did the old turn off and back on and it appeared to be fine. Over the last two days the fridge above has just got warmer and warmer and today settled a room temperature.

I did a bit of reading on forums today and decided to turn the freezer off, empty it (it’s all currently in the back garden defrosting) and take the back off. I discovered an ice berg. I managed to remove the slab of ice whole and currently the copper bits at the back are defrosting. I hope that this will fix it.

However, there is this sticky black rubber thing which you can see below in this picture. It had melted to the copper bit below it. I have pushed it up and squished it back together. Should I remove it, replace it or just squish it back together? What is it?

Kindest regards,

Tom

Could you upload the picture to somewhere else please as its not showing?

[TrickyRikki88]

jean-marc wrote:Yes you are right; I can buy a compressor for a good price now: the thing is it is a R134 instead of mine : R12, and i Wonder if this is a task i can do myself (i do have access to freon also) Is this compressor replacement a big job you think ?

In short no you cannot use a 134a instead of 12, the oils are not the same.
Without trying to sound rude or negative if you dont understand refrigerant (freon) pressure to temp charts and/or the science behind them you should get a tech out to replace, im not sure where in the world you are but here in the UK we work on strict guidelines set out by governing bodies and no one should be working on refrigerants without correct qualifications.

To do the comp change you need a tech to reclaim, replace comp and drier (if fitted) pressure test, vac out to correct scale, decay test and rise test and then and only then the unit can be recharged with refrigerant.

[TrickyRikki88]

jean-marc wrote:Hello

it s a Frigidaire brand freezer made by WCI, model CN08 ; it does have a run capacitor external (12uF) The cap, protection and relay were changed: same results ; the resistance compressor reading between C- S and R are Ok; BUT: there is some continuity between any compressors pins to ground (about 3 ohms to 12 ) This seems to be bad , i think ?

If your getting resistance between the windings and a good earth then it sounds like your comps windings are breaking down

[TrickyRikki88]

whats your make and model of unit?

does it have a pigtail condenser inside by the pot at all?

[TrickyRikki88]

Kippax wrote:So after leaving the appliance to settle overnight, no improvement.

It appears, that despite initially firing up both fridge and freezer, the repair has failed.

Fridge is currently reading 9-10 degs and the freezer about 12.

As replacing the relay did work at first, that would appear to confirm that it was that component at fault. However, maybe the specification of the relay is important and that is why it is no longer chilling.

Unless there are issues with the compressor.

Would anybody please be able to advise on the part no. and a source for the correct relay ?

When you left it was the compressor running? and now the unit is at 9-12 deg is the comp running? if it is running is it hot to the touch with the discharge line being hot and the suction line being cold? is there any sign of freezing/frosting in the unit?

Before you ordered a new relay did you happen to test the old one to see if it had failed?

You can do a simple test on the comp with a multimeter (only if you feel confident and safe doing it, you can also take the running amps of the comp too)

If the comp checks out okay it may be worth getting it fixed, if the comp has failed it will be classed as B.E.R due to the cost of repairing, i tend to write units off if the comp has failed due to the cost of repair to the customer would outweigh the cost of a new unit

[TrickyRikki88]

Could be as simple as a probe reading reading wrong so the freezer thinks its at temp when its not.
The fridge is working fine with no issues? its only the freezer your having an issue with now?

Let me know the outcome of leaving it alone for abit and i will guide you as best as i can

[TrickyRikki88]

Cgunn wrote:

Hi. Defrosted my freezer then restarted and restocked. All fine for about 12 hrs. I then noticed appliance had gone quiet (no usual gentle hum)
I emptied out cleaned again including rear drain. Hovered the back just dust and cobwebs.
plugged back in and all restarted!
…for about an hour.
Now, fast freeze is working but if I turn that off..silence. engineer cant come till Thursday. SMEG is 11 years old.
ANY ideas?
Thanks

When you say it runs for an hour then stops, is the freezer cold? the “humming” sound wont always be there due to the compressor cycle, if you turn off fast freeze and wait for comp to stop (silence with no hum) open the door and feel inside to see if its cold, if it is leave door open for a while and see if the comp kicks back in.

sorry just to edit the post again was there a reason you defrosted it?

[TrickyRikki88]

Dan101 wrote:
Basically that little circuit board is above the knob were you would adjust the temp
I was thinking that the plug i took out from the right side of the pcb if i were to cut the plug off and join the 2 wires together would that by pass the thermostat and allow the fridge to start up if the thermostat was the problem?

Ah i see what you mean now, yes if you connect the 2 wires together it “should” force the comp to run and bring the temp down but then you will have no control over the temp it will just keep running flat out, but you will know for sure if the stat is at fault or the comp.

[TrickyRikki88]

Dan101 wrote:

Hi Tricky,

Thanks for the reply. I would say its about 6-7 years old, i was pointed in the direction of the relay on the side of the compressor so i bought a new relay and fitted it but it made no difference, it just seemed to switch the compressor on every 10 seconds and it would stay on for about 2 seconds and go off so it wasnt the relay.

When i said it was hot to touch its not boiling hot, you can touch it without burning yourself, im going to try and test the thermostat if i can get to it and see what happens, oh and it does click when it switches on and off.

I may just buy a new one i think it would be easier but i’ll test that thermostat first and see what happens.

Just a quick update, i managed to test the thermostat, but it has a small printed circuit board behind the knob so i disconnected it and tested the plug on the board when i turned the thermostat from Min-Max the only time i got a reading was when it was on max otherwise there was no reading.

This is the part. https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1671223 i tested the plug on the right which had the plug in it. Also is there a way to “hotwire” this so to speak just to see if it is that?

Honestly you would be better off asking one of the admin or help people on this site about bypassing it as i have no idea what does what on that without a wiring diagram

[TrickyRikki88]

Dan101 wrote:Hi all new to the forum and need some help =)
I have a beko frost free fridge freezer, opened it yesterday and everything had defrosted and we had to throw all the food, fridge was the same.I took the panel off in the freezer incase i could see something obvious but all looked fine, the fan inside the freezer works the light works, when i turn it off and on again the compressor starts for a second and then switches off it feels hot to touch, any ideas?

I have just switched it back on this morning and the compressor clicks into action and stays on for about 5-10 seconds then goes off again it comes back on about every 2-3 minutes for the same amount of time.Also when i turn the thermostat inside the fridge it doesnt “Click” not sure if that means anything?

Thanks

How old is the unit?

if the comp starts then switches off can you hear it click at all? does it start and click when it switches off? hot to the touch? how hot? if warm thats normal if its too hot to touch then the comp may have failed or seized

Check the thermostat if you can take it out ohm it and check for resistance you should see it change as you adjust it, if this has failed it could also hold the comp off as the stat will think the unit is at set point not needing to run.

So things to consider:
1. Age of the unit – if older than 10 years i would get a new one
2. Thermostat if this isnt working as stated above i would consider changing it IF the unit is less than 10 years old
3. If the stat works okay you have an issue with the comp, could be internal klixon, if the comp has failed you would be better off buying a new unit as to get someone in to swap a comp out will cost you more than a new unit ( i know this because i get asked all the time to quote for domestic work or refrigeration)

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