[TrickyRikki88]

Did you get this sorted at all?

[TrickyRikki88]

zadokkodaz wrote:Thanks for the help guys. The ice maker was recently replaced for the same fault, by an engineer.

In that case i would call the tech company out and say its still not working, if you start working on it and then call them they will only say they cant do anything now as youve worked on it.

[TrickyRikki88]

Handyal1948 wrote:Many thanks for your reply, it’s all electromechanical, the thermostat has a capillary tube which inserts into a tube in the top right of the unit and slides in around the back of the casing. It does not switch off even on 1, but if clicked off and then back to 1, it takes a while to restart and then rarely if ever stops again. In my mind the capillary is getting heat from the rear of the unit heat exchanger somehow and therefore isn’t working to the internal temperature?? Anyway, another blog suggested a temporary work around by using a 24 hour timer which I have done. It’s on for 30mins and off for 30mins daytime and on for 15mins and off for 45mins 11pm to 6am.
Temperature checks are now normal day and night 4-6’C fridge and minus 20-24’C freezer. So it’s a fix for now. I’m also providing better cabinet cool air at the cabinet base for ventilation as there has been none apart from the gap behind the cabinet since it was installed. Hope the thread will help others to make decisions

That is fine for now but you may end up damaging the compressor with keep killing the power to it as it will never pump down properly, it depends on how electrical technical you are as i can tell you how to wire in a new thermostat which will in turn become the main controller which will cycle the unit as designed and also stop the comp from short cycling.

a normal fridge will run the comp down to set point and then usually set for a 2c diff meaning if the comp shuts down at 2c it will pump down and shut off then when the temp gets up to 4c it will then start the comp back up.

With regards to the timer it will run for 30mins regardless of what temp it is and then instantly kill the power leaving liquid refrigerant in the evap, then on start up again it will pull the liquid back to the comp and repeat.

If you want to go for the timer option still i would advise trying to replicate a normal working i.e shut the comp off and keep a thermocouple inside with a display outside, when the temp gets to 4 or 5 then start the comp again and time it to get to set point, you may find it only needs to run for 30mins in the day and then can shut off for an hour.

[TrickyRikki88]

Handyal1948 wrote:Hi, My Indesit INC265A1UK built in Fridge/Freezer (non frost free type and about 12 years old) has started getting too cold – fridge compartment gets to zero deg C and freezer goes as low as minus 28 deg C. It seems to be running a lot too despite the themostat in the fridge compartment being on 1 – the lowest setting next to off. I replaced the thermostat in the fridge compartment thinking that this would cure the problem and it hasn’t.
I can get the compressor to stop by turning the thermostat to off and the fridge compartment returns normal 4-5 deg C. Once the dial is returned to the lowest setting, and once restarted, the compressor runs on again.
I have read other posts here and there is talk of a thermistor issue?
I’m thinking that this would be a bridge too far for me given availability issues and that it isnt easy to get the fridge/freezer unit out of the housing?
Any advice would be gratefully received.

I cant find anything on that model number, not even a photo of the unit, i take it the unit has no digital display on it to let you know whats happening? does the compressor ever turn off when the thermostat is set at 1? or does it just continue to run?

If the comp continues to run constantly you it sounds very much like a thermistor issue, being that i cant find any info on the unit i cant really advise you the best way to access the probe, it all depends on how far your willing to go before you decide to get a new unit, from my point of view the unit is 12 years old i would just get a new unit. In my line of work we usually say 10-15 years on a unit is brilliant but then the cost of repair will start to outweigh itself and we tell our customers its more cost effective to replace.

[TrickyRikki88]

i have a question for you Zadokkodaz, why was the ice maker recently replaced? and did you install it or a white goods engineer?

[TrickyRikki88]

iadom wrote:Most likely just the capacitor, it would get rather hot if there was no motor action to blow air over the heating elements. One word of caution, I think this machine is one of the dryers subject to a fire safety recall. Has your dryer had the safety modifications done if it is such a model?
You can check HERE

Hello Iadom, yes it was one of the dryers that had the recall but indesit sent an engineer out and carried out the safety modification on it quite a while ago, been fine ever since, the cap should be here tuesday so i will replace it, was just curious as to why it wouldnt run at all and then it has been running fine ever since.

Thanks for the advice tho, much appreciated

[TrickyRikki88]

dekor8tor1 wrote:Anyone help please

Have you sorted this out yet?

[TrickyRikki88]

Sorry i have only just seen your reply, yes i was going to say check the sensors next, if the comp is running then its a good sign, the probes could and would hold the temperature off if they are reading wrongly.

[TrickyRikki88]

Is the compressor running?

[TrickyRikki88]

Could it be the main compressor ?
If the comp starts and runs for a few mins and then shuts off it could be going off on klixon or possibly lp, when it runs does it get really hot?

Is this a DIY job ?
If you are a fridge/white goods engineer and have the correct qualifications to be working on refrigerants then yes, if you have no training, qualifications and/or experience then no.

What about the compressor start relay ? I’ve found a supplier for these, but £30 each, non returnable.
If it started okay i would rule that out as an issue at the moment.

Could it be leaked gas ? How to check and fix ?
Could be short of refrigerant, you would need a trained professional to check and repair due to either being a HFC or possibly HC refrigerant, but being domestic it would be cheaper to buy a new unit than to get the comp changed.

Could it be the main control board ? Where is it ?
If you have power at the comp, at the thermostat (if electronic) and at the fans(if fitted) i would also rule the pcb out.

Anything else ?
With fridge it could be a number of things, for it to not be cooling the main parts are, temp probes reading incorrect, thermostat has become faulty, fans not running(only on models with fans) comp not pumping as it should or refrigerant charge.

[TrickyRikki88]

Dfounde wrote:Yes
warmish
ambient
no hotter than the rest of compressor

short of refrigerant i would say, if the discharge is warm and its coming back ambient sounds like it could be short.

[TrickyRikki88]

Dfounde wrote:Update:

ive bypassed the thermostat and the fridge is making a normal fridge noise, but not cooling.

is this likely to be gas?

is the comp deffo running?
is the discharge pipe hot?
is the suction pipe cold?
is the top of the compressor too hot to touch?

[TrickyRikki88]

psej71 wrote:

Thanks mate. It has all fancy controls on the front so imagine it’s got some form of wiring?. I’ve made enquiries with a few spare parts companies and so hopefully will find out this week whether I can get the door.

I would assume the controls and lights will have a small wiring loom that is fed through the top hinge possibly, i have seen that on commercial units, hopefully you get it sorted

[TrickyRikki88]

I would say its a complete door to replace, not sure on your unit but all the units ive worked on you need to unbolt the door at the hinge underneath and it drops out, to replace you just push new door into place and then bolt in. on larger units you may have a top and bottom hinge to unscrew to drop the door off.

[TrickyRikki88]

Is it an old unit? if its tripping the electrics out like that it could be a dead short on the compressor, as the comp goes to start its banging the breaker out.

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