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Julie Partington wrote:I purchased this fridge freezer but from the day I got it. It’s never worked on the fridge was never cold yet the freezer worked fine. The fault wasn’t picked up on as it’s was in a holiday home until after the warranties had run out. Has anyone has the same issues with this model ?
How can you be sure it has never worked if it has been in a holiday home? if this fault has just been noticed it may be a new fault?
kwatt wrote:That is not common and probably not an easy one to put right as it’s either a sensor issue or a compressor one.
K.
Id lean more to sensor/thermostat than the compressor as the freezer is working fine, unless this unit has 2 systems (i.e 1 for fridge and 1 for freezer meaning 2 compressors)
Not sure on this system as never seen or heard of them but i know some types of domestic units rely on a air flap that feeds cold air from the freezer into the fridge, it could be an issue with that if this unit has it, it could be iced up badly and restricting the airflow in the fridge section, there are so many possible issues it could be but without seeing the unit it is hard to diagnose
Hello Titch,
I know you said you took delivery of it monday was this a brand new unit?
Did you plug it in and run it straight away or did you let the oil settle first?
Fridge temp needs to be between 2 – 4C and freezer needs to be -18 – -21
what happens if you crank the dial right up to bring it down in temp and then wind it back abit to where you want it set, does the temperature rise or does it maintain the temp once reached?
I have to agree with Kwatt, samsung are hopeless with support side of things.
Brilliant make and the kitis usually really good but on the odd occasion something goes wrong they dont want to know.
Hope you get this sorted out, but im pretty sure they will be able to repair the unit even if the oil had been pushed around the system they can do a flush through and comp change
So the ice is forming on the evap plate at the back of the fridge?
Have you checked that the drain hole is clear as that can cause frosting.
Not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure on your unit but do you happen to know if it has defrost heaters fitted? if so maybe a faulty heater and/or a defrost termination probe.
How old is the unit? if its more than 10years old i wouldnt waste money on it.
Will Lafferty wrote:
Don’t worry about it, the fridge has gone to the dump.:(
Ah that’s a shame, sorry we couldn’t get it working again.
Will Lafferty wrote:
So tried the experiment with the fan last night. Switched the unit off, also put an ice cube tray filled with water in the freezer, and then switched it back on with the fan blowing cold air on the coil.
The freezer temperature setpoint was -20DegC. As usual the compressor kicked in and the temperature dropped. After a couple of hours the water had frozen and the freezer temp was showing as -20DegC when I opened the door. I changed the temp setpoint to -25DegC and opened the freezer door for a bit to drive the temp up (it went to -18DegC). After I closed the freezer door I expected the Compressor to kick in again but I didn’t hear it going, however I came back an hour later and the temperature was showing as -25DegC. I then changed the setpoint to -20DegC and left it, the temporary cold fan I set up had been running the whole time.I went back to it a few hours later and opened the freezer, it showed on the door as be -20DegC, however the ice cubes were melting.
I switched the unit off and on again and the temperature on the door was now showing as +8DegC. At this point I just turned the cold fan off and left it. When I got up this morning the Freezer display was showing as -20DegC and the water had frozen again, so it must have kicked in during the night. I switched the unit off and on again to get the real temperature and the freezer was showing as -17DegC.So I have no idea. The condenser fan is definitely knackered however I think there is another issue on top of that. My suspicion is a thermostat, but then the display showed the temperature increasing when I left the door open but then it is displaying the wrong temperature the majority of the time unless the unit is powered off then on.
Sorry for the delay in replying, had a manic few days at work and barely got time to check back on here, so the fan helped to get it down to temp?
Im wondering if you have a faulty board or a faulty defrost sensor? so the sensor is reading alot colder than what it is, forcing it on defrost and then staying on defrost until the probe come back in range? that would explain the comp shutting down unless its a hot gas defrost?
As the condenser fan didnt kick in at all i would say thats failed again (hopefully under warranty with the company who fitted it) but it could also be a faulty board thats causing the issues with the fan as well as the temperature.
its a strange problem and unfortunately im running out of ideas, its the kind of problem you need to see and diagnose while the machine is in front of you.
No worries, if i can help i will 🙂
Yes i see what you mean now.
I havent found a manual for it yet but i will continue my search.
By all means you could try to put a fan blowing onto the compressor and condenser area to see what it does to the system, if it runs to temp and cuts in and out when it should then maybe they supplied you a faulty fan motor without knowing? we have had a few parts like that. Keeping a static fan on the condenser coil will do no harm and will let you know if its the fan motor holding the system off, if even with the fan running on it the unit still dont reach temp and/or the comp cuts out then there is something more to it.
Keep me posted on if the fan works and i will let you know when i find a manual for it so i know abit more what type of unit you have
Will Lafferty wrote:
If I power cycle the fridge/freezer the compressor kicks in and the condenser coils begin to heat up. The fridge and freezer temps begin to drop and the centre frame of the fridge becomes very warm. Eventually the compressor stops and the fridge and freezer temps rise and it doesn’t kick in again. I can see there is overload protection on the inverter PCB board, from the circuit diagram, but I can’t see any thermal protection on the inverter PCB. There is a thermo fuse for the Freezer Defrost Heater on the main PCB but that’s it.I’m tempted to hook up a temporary fan to run all the time for a couple of days, and position it near the coils to cool them and see if the freezer runs any better.
Sorry Will,
So when you power down then back up the compressor starts? does it get really hot, too hot to touch?
Condenser coils? does the system have 2 condensers? (condenser coil is the coil behind the fridge not inside)
How old is the unit? im not too sure on what your fridge is like so i will try and get a manual and have a little look to see if i can help you further
Thats why i thought i would ask as i know in general white goods engineers usually just chuck parts at units until they get the right one, i have had a few white goods people instantly say to people the compressor is dead, knowing full well its cheaper to buy a new unit than to fix the current unit and when i have double checked over the units the compressors have been fine.
After a quick google it looks like the condenser fan motor is 12v, when the condenser fan has stopped does the motor get really hot?
I dont work on domestic fridge as tbh i dont see it being cost effective however i am a refrigeration engineer by trade and I work on commercial units.
I would say if your going through boards and motors as you say you are there is something more serious causing the issues.
Are the engineers you’ve had out trained refrigeration guys? or general white goods engineers?
oAJAXo wrote:I’m trying to buy an upright fridge freezer (not american). We want a large freezer with a small fridge, unfortunately, search engines will not find one. Have scoured various sites but just cant find one. Would prefer black. Anyone know where to buy one please 🙂
Hello, what sort of dimensions are you working with? are you only looking at domestic units?
kwatt wrote:If I were to guess, I’d suspect the diverter valve was the problem as they can be on those models.
It’s this part if you need it but do try to check it first, it’s attached to the sump:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1786500100-dishwasher-diverter-valve
K.
Brilliant, thank you, i will have a look and if it seems to be that i will replace it.
Thanks again for your advice
