[UKWGoodsy]

1. Can anyone supply FULL circuitry via DM?

2. How do I change Post Title to [SOLVED] ?

[UKWGoodsy]

I believe I found the problem!

Although I did check the external connection block before and saw nothing strange, this time I found the N cable slightly melted – just a bit and the N LINK slightly scorched!

I went to check the ID60EWS connection block and ‘reminded’ me that this cooker had link pins you take off [just the L1, L2, L3 two pins] when you have a 3 phase connection – i.e. this cooker can be converted to a 3 phase.

Now, the connector also has ‘strangely’ a N link pin which you DO NOT remove when in 3 phase!

This BLOODY pin is actually NOT connected properly – that is why I had this sporadic problem and it made me think it is to do with the connection block when [now remembered] last night I put cooker back onto the wall – after it was working when I disconnected right side plates … thinking I found the problem.

i.e. that BLOODY connector ‘is’ the problem

The original LINK PIN was connected the other way around – one side is about 10mm shorter – the shorter side must go WITH the N cable and not the other way around.
So there was a connection, but just barely – good job I did connect cables very tightly from when bought.

SOLVED … I sincerely hope – as I thought it was to do with L or N not properly connected as I did all resistance checks = all fine twice!

PS I hope this helps another family and technicians – this felt nice, since 1990s when I used to do Airport radio racks – the military way using military grade huge connectors and racks – loads of internal wiring and even telephonic central connections – you know those 3m high racks with loads of multi-connections for 100 ‘pairs’ each connection?

[UKWGoodsy]

The plates are connected in pairs, therefore it would certainly affect 2 of them.
mmm

Would be nice to see full connections or full connections of plates + cooker thermostat at least – if possible.

Thanks again to take your time for me.

[UKWGoodsy]

Please Check DM

Thank you

ID60E2(W) S
S/N 302017504 25812300000

[UKWGoodsy]

I totally agree, that is why I do not understand it and in my view that is why this cooker has disappeared from market!

If anyone can find a diagram … that will help to solve this mystery… it possibly have wrong wiring somewhere from factory.

[UKWGoodsy]

electrofix wrote:have you checked the terminal block ?

Dave

Hi Dave – yes twice – that was my first thought too – really nice tight connections, but one thing I noticed since purchased it [~5-6 years ago] the block coming slightly off – even with the 2 screws on!

Then yesterday I re-opened the back cover and noticed [after] while putting back cover on – as it started to work – the block was forcibly pushing over the back main oven chamber – on the insulation!

mmm a thought I always had – THAT might be a problem, but no scorching marks – nothing obvious and never tripped Consumer Unit.

Now it is working again, but next time it happens I will [disconnect mains!] take the block off and insulate it internally and it might works! Then re-screw it on and leave it a bit off the back cover.

If anyone can get a wiring diagram, it will make my day – thanks for the valuable input.

[UKWGoodsy]

Updated… now it has been with:

– Both oven lights on
– no timer
– NONE of the top plates work at all – no light too
– Both ovens do work fine and always worked fine
– TOCs are fine as oven works and both fans work
– disconnected top hob elements – same!
– I have not managed to find a diagram I could follow yet
– grandson needs food! ;p]
– re- opened this morning, no obvious problems, checked continuity on Mains inputs throughout and also TOPs

I just got no idea, it is not my field

Anyone?
Should I register as business -as I am one – but in lockdown – forced to close as non essential!

Thanks
M

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