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Apologies for the delay coming back on this – work got in the way and I wasn’t getting pressure from she who must be obeyed as the weather was nice so I haven’t had a chance to look at it until this afternoon.
From what I can see the compressor isn’t even switching on.
Ran P:02 with the dryer plugged into a power meter plug – best solution I could come up with as I don’t have a clamp meter. For the whole 30 minutes the power never went above 5W.
Took the side panel off to check voltage at capacitor that feeds across the compressor and there’s 0ac. The compressor isn’t running at all.Did a resistance check on the compressor – not sure on Common, Start and run wires but..
Red/White to Black/White = 13ohms
Red/White to Blue/White = 8ohms
Blue/White to Black/White = 7ohmsChecked the capacitor just using the resistance as my DMM doesn’t read capacitance – and it climbs to infinity as expected. Tracing the power lines back to the board and that line is the line that the relay that melted sits on. So my thoughts are there’s still a power board issue. Does that sound right?
Can’t see how to edit my post to update it. P:02 finished after about 30 minutes but I wasn’t there to see any numbers shown. No errors. So will re-run it and see if I can get a number.
Do you know how long the test should last? It’s been 14 minutes and still displaying 1. I’ve rerun tests 1-9 and here’s the results.
P01 – 1 displayed: light comes on, drum rotates, light goes out, 2 displayed: humming sound. Test ends – no errors
P02 – 1 displayed: light comes on, short hum (I guess the compressor being energised, light goes out. Test still running?
P03 – 1 displayed: light comes on, sounds like pump running, 2 displayed: pump sound stops, 3 displayed: loud clunk, pump sound starts again, 4 displayed: pump sound stops, 0 displayed: Test ends – no errors
P04 – 1 displayed: light comes on, loud clunk, 2 displayed: test stops – E:14 -00 displayed with rapid beeps. Machine needs to be turned off to continue other tests
P05 – light comes on sound of relay clicking, test ends – no errors
P06 – light comes on sound of relay clicking, test ends – no errors
P07 – 1 displayed: light comes on, sound of something running but not sure what (pump?), 2 displayed: loud clunk, pump? stops, 3 displayed: loud clunk, 4 displayed: pump? starts, 5 displayed: pump? Stops, 6 displayed: test ends – no errors
P08 – all panel lights illuminate, test ends – no errors
P09 – light comes on, display panel blank, light goes off, test ends – no errorsI took the whole machine apart last weekend and cleaned both the condenser and evaporator. The front of both was completely blocked with a “sheet” of lint.
All back together but the machine still isn’t really drying properly – takes a day or two for each load. There are no error codes when I run the dryer normally.When I had the machine apart I did a quick check on the pump (resistance) and it seems OK (around 170ohms).
I’ve now had a chance to cycle through each of the programs (1 through 28) in test mode. I have no idea what each test does as I still can’t find anything detailing the modes but P01 – P09 seem to go through their paces without throwing anything up on the display.
P10 gives 10 followed by 979
P11 gives 10 followed by 826
P12, P13, P18 through P28 all stop at 5 with an E-14 and -00Anyone know what those results mean?
Thanks [USER=”4209″]electrofix[/USER] and [USER=”49782″]kaibart[/USER] – will take a look next weekend
Thanks [USER=”4209″]electrofix[/USER] Dave. I’ve had the panel off and there was a very thin matting of hair across part of the evaporator but nothing too substantial which was surprising considering how much lint there was in the rest of the machine. I noticed that on the floor of the condenser/evaporator area there was a small pool of water – is this normal?
Spoke to the Boss and she’s saying it’s definitely taking longer to dry everything. I’m just wondering whether the pump isn’t pumping out the condensate properly or whether the compressor is on it’s last leg.
[USER=”49782″]kaibart[/USER] Yeah the e90 code is sorted now the relay has been replaced.
Regarding the cleaning product, is this what you mean? https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/store/cleaning-and-care/cleaning-products/for-washing-machines/00312111?tagrid=65429272#/Tabs=section-local/Yes – there’s a bit you can cut out at the front of the machine behind the panel where the air inlet is. I saw a YouTube video of someone doing just that and dismissed it thinking it wasn’t right. I’ll take a look tomorrow
Thanks Dave – I think the issue is that it’s taking 2-3 cycles to dry everything. Looking at the amount of lint inside my guess is that the boss hasn’t been emptying the lint filter which leads me to suspect that this is a completely seperate issue and that she was having it before the relay blew. I’m sure that if the condenser fins are completely blocked with lint it’ll not be working efficiently. Trouble is to get to it, I think the drum has to come out!
Hmm – no heater element on this tumble dryer. It’s a heat pump dryer so it’s just an evaporator and condenser. Maybe refridgerant loss or more likely condenser/evaporator blocked with lint/fluff. Looks like a complete strip down to get to the condenser/evaporator.
whirlpoolsucks wrote:The blown relay is the second inboard sitting beside the connector that the blue/white and red/white leads connects to (ie 2nd one from top left as it sits in the dryer). The relay below it could have sustained some heat damage as the corner is blackened but as I say – it buzzes out on the DMM OK.
EDIT to correct in Bold and underlined
No – they are all intact (1-2 ohms)….thought you meant on the power line. Those fuses are downstream i think (again guesswork without hours of point to point buzzing out), I was looking for a higher power fuse ….the fact the tracks burnt out is making me look for the powerline short but i think your suggestion around water leak may be the solution
electrofix wrote: starting to think that plug has got wet and gone with a bang
It’s possible although not obvious when I took it apart
electrofix wrote:i would put a 3 amp fuse in the plug and see if it powers up
I’ll check for shorts on the motor tomorrow (I think the motor and heater are the only things capable of drawing enough power to melt the contacts but I’d expect them to fail before the mains deleted the board) and if I find nothing then I’ll give that a go but i think I’d need to fix the ST17 plug temporarily due to the melted contacts. Long term – assuming it works – I’ll need to replace ST17 plug and rebuild the track on the PCB, maybe adding an SMD fuse for safety.
electrofix wrote:assume the fuse on the board is ok and there is no other visible damage on the board
To be honest I can’t see any obvious fuses on the board. All looks like diodes, resistors, capacitors and ICs. The rest of the board is in mint condition – what you see on the first picture is the extent of the damage on the board.
So buzzing out the ST17 Pin 2 and Pin 3 show that they connect to the incoming mains with Pin 2 = L and Pin 3 = N.
There’s what I believe is a noise suppression capacitor across the incoming main that I can’t really test. I’d expect it to read somewhere between 100k and 1.5M but it’s OC on the 2M range (my DVM max and no cap test).
If this dishwasher is like other Miele dishwashers (and I think it is) the incoming main taps off to the door switch and the heater (possibly pump too). Noticed the door switch is short circuit (door closed) but can’t work out yet where that’s triggered. I did however notice that the cable is snapped that leads to the ratchet mechanism on the side which I assume is the auto open.
I think the heater is fine at about 30Ohms.
Ran out of time to check the pump – job for tomorrow.
