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Yeah job for the weekend I think. If the main board has gone and another major component it’ll be heading landfill. Honestly thought Miele would last much longer. This one was a replacement for one that failed beyond economical repair at 6 years old. It’s 8 years old but I had to replace the pump two years ago because an oring failed and you can’t buy the o-ring so a £2 bit requires a £400 replacement, a pipe split a year ago and now this. Oh well
Thanks for your help Dave.Sorry to clarify. The plug contacts the board on both sides as it’s double sided. The plug contacts on the side that connects to the tracks on the component side appear to have melted so only stubs remain (about half length). The plug contacts on the side that connects to tracks on the non components side are intact. Hope that makes sense. The plug shells are intact
Plugs cleaned up OK but on plug ST17 Pin 2 and 3 where it contacts on the component side of the board they appear to have melted but back side of the board look ok. Not sure what that connects to because it’s not giving a proper reading. ST16 Pin 1 in the harness is intact as are all others. ST16 Pin 1-2 reads 1-2ohms – again no sure where it goes in the loom but ST16 Pin 1 and ST17 Pin 3 appear to be on either sides of one of the power relay switches.
I’ve seen worse!
Thanks Dave – I was thinking more along the lines of the downstream components that plug onto the board rather than the actual PCB circuit diagram.
It looks like whatever ST17 connects to could be the issue.Not to worry – the spare glass assembly arrived which made everything obvious. It’s rotated into place.
Thanks again Dave. That makes sense to me. I check the temp this morning and it was around -1C to 3C so it looks like it needed time to stabilise and I was just being impatient. Hopefully the defrost on the evaporator and the drain will have done the trick. Probably caused by Mrs overloading the fridge and restricting the airflow. Seems to be running well now.
Thanks Dave.
When I had the thermistor out I did check the return vent. Couldn’t see any obvious blockage. Got the fridge down to 1C with most of the contents removed.
Loaded two shelves taking care not to crowd the vents. Checked and the temp had climbed to 13C while I was loading the shelves. It’s currently on a really slow descent at 10C (so only a 3C drop in an hour).
Well, it’s not the door switch.
Turned the machine off and then rotated the program selector and the lights flash on each selection. I think the contol board has gone. 🙁
No. No fault code. Just a beep and all the lights flash.
Will try the door lock.
Question….is it NO or NC? ie…..if I short the switch should the dryer operate?
Re: S20BRSS31 Whirlpool – Designed by monkeys
Well it looks like the pile of cr@p needs a front board and a rear board. Might as well buy a proper make that can actually do the job without falling over every five minutes!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezers,- Any Good?
I wouldn’t touch Whirlpool with a bargepole. The most unreliable FF I have ever owned.
My mother has a 7 yr old Samsung which has never failed.
My Whirlpool has spent more time being fixed than it has actually working. The system uses extremely cheap components. Even the plastics become brittle way before the other FF I have had.
