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Re: AEG Lavamat 16830 : no heat in dryer
Rob, i have exact same symptom & my resistance checks are same as yours .. did u ever get this fixed & what was it please ??
Thanks, Jim
Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY
Hi,just joined..have the same symptom of not drying,but done all the above (condense bottle was half clogged), there was a clod of fluff on the NTC, but this hasnt fixed it !
The NTC has 48k stamped on it (& thats what it measures).
The blower WAS orignally stalled, but runs ok now.
The 2 Thermal cut outs on the side of the heat chamber meter
out ok as closed, I have replaced the thermal sensor on the
front of the heat chamber.same resistance as the original.
240V is seen at all the heater terminals (both elements are 60 ohms good)..following the neutral (yellow) wires back, they come straight from the PCB at the front right corner of the mc.Maybe my problem is that the PCB isnt suplying the ground shot to the other side of the elements ?? But rather than suspecting that its the board (and wasting £250), does anybody know what conditions must be satisfied to make the board give that signal out to the elements ? pls help.
Forgot to mention ,,I DONT get any E codes !!
Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY
Hi,just joined..have the same symptom of not drying,but done all the above (condense bottle was half clogged), there was a clod of fluff on the NTC, but this hasnt fixed it !
The NTC has 48k stamped on it (& thats what it measures).
The blower WAS orignally stalled, but runs ok now.
The 2 Thermal cut outs on the side of the heat chamber meter
out ok as closed, I have replaced the thermal sensor on the
front of the heat chamber.same resistance as the original.
240V is seen at all the heater terminals (both elements are 60 ohms good)..following the neutral (yellow) wires back, they come straight from the PCB at the front right corner of the mc.Maybe my problem is that the PCB isnt suplying the ground shot to the other side of the elements ?? But rather than suspecting that its the board (and wasting £250), does anybody know what conditions must be satisfied to make the board give that signal out to the elements ? pls help
