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Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
Hi bluerobin,
Just follow my instructions dated 26 August 2015 – you’ll find the defective thermistor right there. Switch the fridge/freezer off. Use a wooden spatula to take out the foam insulation and have a new thermistor ready to connect up. What have you got to lose? The unit is broken anyway.
Sorry, don’t know how to upload pictures – you don’t really need them anyway. Just a tape measure and X marks the spot. Save yourself £300.
Regards…willfixanythingRe: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
The fix works as described by others. No skill needed. My description is just detailed so everyone can understand but it is not as complicated as I have made it sound. No welding needed. You just need:
The replacement sensor – I bought 4394720185 off ebay for £9 even though it was listed for different model. It contains the device you are replacing already shrink insulated with 2 wires coming out, plus 2 x clear heat shink end caps to cover each wire connection you make, and a black sleeve folded flat which opens into a cylinder to slip over everything as a second cover for the connections.
Stanley knife or similar blade.
Tape measure.
Cable crimmers to cut and trim the insulation to expose bare wires.
Hot air gun (hot hair dryer might work – try it on offcut of the black strip perhaps).
Can of expanding foam – read the instructions on how to use.
Spoon or wooden spatula or just your bare hands to dig into foam.Photos are difficult to interpret – the official Beko ones show the set up without the foam and so is confusing. The real photos just show a hole in the foam backing and wires. Just follow the instructions.
First turn off the fridge, unplug and pull it out from wall.
As others have described, measure 220mm down from top of fridge and draw a horizontal line around 200mm from the left edge as you are looking at the back to around the centre of the fridge. This line will be over the bit (sensor and enough wire to play with) you want to expose which is around 50mm deep under the foam and covered by a plastic membrane. The hole also needs to be wide and high enough to work in so there is no need for exact measurements and it depends on much space you need. You can always widen the hole as you go.
The hole needs to be high enough to get your fingers and the crimpers into, so also around 50mm from upper to lower edge, and wide enough right to left to expose the faulty unit which is near the centre midline and enough wire which runs left horizontally at the 220mm line from the faulty unit before turning up into the PCB which is covered by white plastic cover (which you don’t need to touch. Another poster did connect directly – you don’t need to).
Use a blade to pierce the backing and cut a rectangle around 100mm wide by 50mm high, with the left edge around 200mm from the left edge of the fridge and the right edge around the centre of the fridge. Top and bottom around 25mm above and below the 220mm horizontal line. You can go a 2-3 centimeters deep with the knife – there’s nothing to damage just below the surface.
Remove the chunk you have cut, then dig bluntly with a spoon or wooden spatula. You will eventually hit the metal back of the fridge covered in white membrane. Difficult to see as the foam is stuck to everything. You should be able to feel the hard lump of wire running horizontally under the membrane. Clear 10mm or so of foam above and below the wire and extend left and right to the margins of your rectangle. Continuing right you will eventually hit the faulty sensor, which feels like an AAA battery. Pierce the membrane with a gentle horizontal cut placed above the wire, so you miss it. Then peel the membrane away from the wire to expose around 100mm or so right to left to give you enough to play with. When there is enough free you can pull out the faulty sensor. First, remove it from it’s casing by peeling up the left hand corner of the sensor metal casing to raise the bar holding it in. You can then wriggle it out to the left pulling the wires (you won’t need it again – replace it anyway as you have got this far) or pushing horizontally from the right to push it out the left.
Next cut the wires close to the sensor leaving enough free length for you to play with (ie you will want 50-100mm loose on the left attached to the fridge depending on how nimble you are and how big you have made your excavation.
Next put the cylinder of black heatshrink tubing loosely over the new sensor’s wires and let it hang down near the new sensor unit out of the way.
Practice trimming the insulation from the wires on the old sensor if you are a novice. Then skin 2-3 cm insulation from the wires on the new sensor and do the same on the wires connected to the fridge.
Twist each wire from the new sensor to one of the wires connected to the fridge (polarity does not matter). Then tighten the twists using pliers or the blunt tips of your crimpers. The twisted merged points can now be be capped by the clear heat shrink end caps. Tuck cardboard between the wires and the foam/back of fridge to shield them during the heating process. And keep the black tubing out of the way for now or it will start shrinking too. Don’t fry the end caps for too long with the hot air gun otherwise they will start to melt. The aim is to shrinkseal your twisted merged wires away under new insulation. Once the end caps are done, slide the black tubing up over both your end caps and seal this second layer of insulation over the whole area.You now have the new sensor wired in and the connections nicely double insulated. The cylinder of the sensor has one flat edge. This edge goes flat against the back of the fridge. Slide the sensor unit into the old sensor’s metal casing and close the bar down. It is a tight fit – wiggle it in (the replacement sensor is better insulated). Dry the whole area with toilet tissue and it might be a good idea to stick some tape over the broken membrane. Then tuck any surplus wire into your hole and fill with expanding foam following the instructions on the can. You can allow to expand and cut any excess off later and maybe tape some card over it.
The ice on the back of the inside of the fridge should now be easy to dislodge following the time it has been unplugged and you using the hot air gun from behind, etc. so it should scrape off nicely in chunks. Then switch the fridge back on and all should be fine. You might notice some condensation on the back wall of the inside of fridge depending on how well you have reinsulated.
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
JSKELTON555
I have the same problem with my BEKO CDA 648FS and would appreciate a copy of your photos to guide me. Thank you
Best Regards
philipjhayman
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
Just repaired mine and back working great again. I just used expanding foam to refill and taped back the initial plastic cover that was first cut away.
Thanks to all the previous pictures and descriptions very easy to do.
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
moderator wrote:The fix works as described by others. No skill needed. My description is just detailed so everyone can understand but it is not as complicated as I have made it sound.
Just a quick note to say I followed these instructions last night (the only difference is I *did* solder the wires just for piece of mind) – the operation was simple to do, with the only issue being that I cannot use expanding foam without getting it everywhere! 😆
Ordered the part from Ebay as per several other posts, arrived after one day.
Like one of the other posters, I had to make some small trims to the shrink coating on the new part to make the width of the whole thing the same as the original so it fitted in the metal sleve, but it was just shape changing and did not pierce the protective nature of the sleeve.
I used Silver “gaffer” tape to replace the membrane that got pierced to expose the original sensor, then filled with foam and replaced the original square of outer lining.
I’ve popped photos of the entire thing in the link below for anyone who really needs to see what’s what, but in all seriousness, just follow the detailed instructions from the post by “moderator” and all WILL be good! 🙂
Thanks to all the people who posted here – you’ve saved me from buying a new fridge!
Images:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154347002576985.1073741965.735211984&type=1&l=9fc849c841
Last thing – as per “moderator” ‘s post, you DO NOT need to open the cover to the PCB/control board in the top left corner – I was only in there checking other things whilst working.
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
Having the same issue but with a beko cda653fb/1. My thermostat control dial is in the top of the fridge on the roof of it, would the sensor be in here or in the insulation?
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
Confused as the guide says there are 2 sensors to replace? Both look the same?
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
There is no video and, it’d probably be pointless anyway as many are since it can vary how you do things from model to model… they’re not all the same.
K.
Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
I have a slightly different freezer its a CDA539FS-2
the procedure is slightly different
make the hole as moderator says above 200 in 200 down
on my fridge the thermister was not on the back it was on top and not possible to access
take the PCB cover off and unplug the lead with 2 wires, on mine it was blue
clear all insulation out of the hole you have made then feed the cable from the new thermister up into the pcb box cut the existing 2 wires on the blue cable and connect to the new unit then plug back on to PCB
then make sure the back of the hole is dry and superglue the unit to it
fill with expanding foam taking care not to overfill, and bobs your uncle as they say
did this fix 2 days ago up to now perfect saved £300 thanks to all contributersI have a Beko CF5533APW and just tried the replace the temperature sensor. It is not on the rear panel as shown in this thread. After digging out the wiring it appears to go into the sidewall of the fridge and is inaccessible.
So you may be lucky, you may not like me.
Thanks all for the contributions in this (really old) thread!
Going to give this a go as ours has started to do the same thing, might just save us £250 for a new one!
if anyone has videos or pics of the steps etc… let me know!
moderator wrote:Re: Beko CDA648FS/1 Frost Free Fridge Freezer-Fridge is Froz
The fix works as described by others. No skill needed. My description is just detailed so everyone can understand but it is not as complicated as I have made it sound. No welding needed. You just need:
The replacement sensor – I bought 4394720185 off ebay for £9 even though it was listed for different model. It contains the device you are replacing already shrink insulated with 2 wires coming out, plus 2 x clear heat shink end caps to cover each wire connection you make, and a black sleeve folded flat which opens into a cylinder to slip over everything as a second cover for the connections.
Stanley knife or similar blade.
Tape measure.
Cable crimmers to cut and trim the insulation to expose bare wires.
Hot air gun (hot hair dryer might work – try it on offcut of the black strip perhaps).
Can of expanding foam – read the instructions on how to use.
Spoon or wooden spatula or just your bare hands to dig into foam.Photos are difficult to interpret – the official Beko ones show the set up without the foam and so is confusing. The real photos just show a hole in the foam backing and wires. Just follow the instructions.
First turn off the fridge, unplug and pull it out from wall.
As others have described, measure 220mm down from top of fridge and draw a horizontal line around 200mm from the left edge as you are looking at the back to around the centre of the fridge. This line will be over the bit (sensor and enough wire to play with) you want to expose which is around 50mm deep under the foam and covered by a plastic membrane. The hole also needs to be wide and high enough to work in so there is no need for exact measurements and it depends on much space you need. You can always widen the hole as you go.
The hole needs to be high enough to get your fingers and the crimpers into, so also around 50mm from upper to lower edge, and wide enough right to left to expose the faulty unit which is near the centre midline and enough wire which runs left horizontally at the 220mm line from the faulty unit before turning up into the PCB which is covered by white plastic cover (which you don’t need to touch. Another poster did connect directly – you don’t need to).
Use a blade to pierce the backing and cut a rectangle around 100mm wide by 50mm high, with the left edge around 200mm from the left edge of the fridge and the right edge around the centre of the fridge. Top and bottom around 25mm above and below the 220mm horizontal line. You can go a 2-3 centimeters deep with the knife – there’s nothing to damage just below the surface.
Remove the chunk you have cut, then dig bluntly with a spoon or wooden spatula. You will eventually hit the metal back of the fridge covered in white membrane. Difficult to see as the foam is stuck to everything. You should be able to feel the hard lump of wire running horizontally under the membrane. Clear 10mm or so of foam above and below the wire and extend left and right to the margins of your rectangle. Continuing right you will eventually hit the faulty sensor, which feels like an AAA battery. Pierce the membrane with a gentle horizontal cut placed above the wire, so you miss it. Then peel the membrane away from the wire to expose around 100mm or so right to left to give you enough to play with. When there is enough free you can pull out the faulty sensor. First, remove it from it’s casing by peeling up the left hand corner of the sensor metal casing to raise the bar holding it in. You can then wriggle it out to the left pulling the wires (you won’t need it again – replace it anyway as you have got this far) or pushing horizontally from the right to push it out the left.
Next cut the wires close to the sensor leaving enough free length for you to play with (ie you will want 50-100mm loose on the left attached to the fridge depending on how nimble you are and how big you have made your excavation.
Next put the cylinder of black heatshrink tubing loosely over the new sensor’s wires and let it hang down near the new sensor unit out of the way.
Practice trimming the insulation from the wires on the old sensor if you are a novice. Then skin 2-3 cm insulation from the wires on the new sensor and do the same on the wires connected to the fridge.
Twist each wire from the new sensor to one of the wires connected to the fridge (polarity does not matter). Then tighten the twists using pliers or the blunt tips of your crimpers. The twisted merged points can now be be capped by the clear heat shrink end caps. Tuck cardboard between the wires and the foam/back of fridge to shield them during the heating process. And keep the black tubing out of the way for now or it will start shrinking too. Don’t fry the end caps for too long with the hot air gun otherwise they will start to melt. The aim is to shrinkseal your twisted merged wires away under new insulation. Once the end caps are done, slide the black tubing up over both your end caps and seal this second layer of insulation over the whole area.You now have the new sensor wired in and the connections nicely double insulated. The cylinder of the sensor has one flat edge. This edge goes flat against the back of the fridge. Slide the sensor unit into the old sensor’s metal casing and close the bar down. It is a tight fit – wiggle it in (the replacement sensor is better insulated). Dry the whole area with toilet tissue and it might be a good idea to stick some tape over the broken membrane. Then tuck any surplus wire into your hole and fill with expanding foam following the instructions on the can. You can allow to expand and cut any excess off later and maybe tape some card over it.
The ice on the back of the inside of the fridge should now be easy to dislodge following the time it has been unplugged and you using the hot air gun from behind, etc. so it should scrape off nicely in chunks. Then switch the fridge back on and all should be fine. You might notice some condensation on the back wall of the inside of fridge depending on how well you have reinsulated.
Many thanks for all the posts on this thread and for the above in particular which I followed.
I have just replaced the sensor on my 11 year old fridge freezer (which I keep in an outbuilding) after it froze some wine (temp. of – 8 degC in fridge, -34degC in freezer). Now reading +7/8 degC in fridge, -17/18 degC in freezer. Was told by a service engineer that the sensor could not be changed and that I needed a new motherboard (although he wouldn’t say it would definitely solve the problem). Wish I’d seen this thread before asking for the service engineer to call, at great expense!!
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