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Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
I beg to differ Boschman, a reinforced, soldered joint will last indefinitely. This is surely how the joint should have been made in the first place and what we should expect from a company with the reputation for quality such as Bosch!
As you are obviously in the trade, please do us the courtesy of becoming a member – you will then be able to contribute fully to UKW.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
PROFUSE THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED.
Just soldered the joint as directed but reinfoced it with copper wire across Two of the soldered conections on the same terminal and IT WORKS!!!
One minor problem, When I opened up the door two pieces of wedge shaped translucent plastic with prongs fell out at the bottom and I cant for the life of me see where they go.
They are not on the parts diagrams at Bosch service site so I’m assuming they aren’t important and the machine works ok without. Could be spacers I suppose? Anyone know where they fit?Just one word to Mr Bosch repair man. Its scandalous that this is a reccurent problem with the machine and I would like to know why you think its ok to charge so much for the so called “permanent” repair getting on for £200 by the time someone will have forked out £90 odd for a new module!
Once again to everyone else my sincere thanks and long may you continue. 😀
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
Good result, pms. The prong things fit around the hinges at the bottom of the door, to prevent the door outer panel getting stove in.
There was a time when service engineers, even company ones, were taught to repair things. These days, it is quicker just to slap a new (still flawed!) bit in and expect the customer to pay for this “service”.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
Some of my colleagues have resoldered this joint, with a warning to the customer that if the joint failed sometime in the future, then a new module would be required. This is against company policy. (Risking a b********g) The module in question has long been superseded and as we see a lot less of this fault.
Customers who had this fault (still very much in the minority) got discount on the repair if the appliance is/was under three years old. If you read my post again, you will see that I said “it’s seen as a temporary repair” I have no problem with anyone soldering. In fact if it were my own appliance and I had to fork out £90 for a new module, I’d be running to the van for “the iron”. 😉Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
pms wrote:One minor problem, When I opened up the door two pieces of wedge shaped translucent plastic with prongs fell out at the bottom and I cant for the life of me see where they go.
It’s part of the Module Casing that has broken away, (usually the push button actuating tags) and can be replaced at a reasonable price direct from Bosch (Part No: 264946)
Martin
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
Thanks a million for these notes. I have just repaired my Siemens dishwasher by inserting the copper link as for the Bosch. I think they are the same model. 😀
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
We don’t solder these joints as a permanent repair because if there are any problems we are in the sh1t with our gaffers.
As Boschman/BSHman said this board is virtually an antique now and most of the time some sort of goodwill would be given.
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
I am an electronic engineer and am shocked at Bosch’s attitude to the control panel problem. It is clearly a design fault whereby the PCB designer did not allow sufficient copper for the relay connection to the heater. Bosch technical support even had the cheek to suggest that this track was acting as a fusable link! A 10p fuse fitted to the PCB would be preferrable to having to replace the entire module at a cost of £100 + labour. Bosch clearly know it’s a design fault and are really not looking after their customers well.
My SGS5312 failed in a similar way and I repaired it myself by remaking the relay connection and replacing the 2003 darlington transistor array chip that drives the relays. Now all working fine. This is obviously not a general DIY job, so I would not recommend this approach for all unless you have access to good electronic assembly facililities.
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
davepi wrote: Bosch clearly know it’s a design fault and are really not looking after their customers well.
In fact this fault was only on the early series of Control Units (Mark 1 if you like) They were in production though for over 4 years with little or no problems in the field.
All the failures (with little exception) appeared after intensive usage over a 2 to 3 year period which is well out of Bosch’s product guarantee responsibilities.
Even better news is that the Mark 2 and subsequent electronic control units have no such problems. 😀
Martin
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
It is clearly a design fault whereby the PCB designer did not allow sufficient copper for the relay connection to the heater
Its the lack of solder on the heater relay pin that when under load coditions heats up the solder and depleted it; free flower solder machining at its best. I have resolder numerous pcbs and NEVER had theis fault re occur so temporary fix I think not.
Greg
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
BSH-MAN wrote:The board hole for the pin is too big.
That makes sense, silly mistake though 😳
Re: Bosch 6312 Dishwasher: No Heat
davepi wrote:I am an electronic engineer and am shocked at Bosch’s attitude to the control panel problem. It is clearly a design fault whereby the PCB designer did not allow sufficient copper for the relay connection to the heater. Bosch technical support even had the cheek to suggest that this track was acting as a fusable link! A 10p fuse fitted to the PCB would be preferrable to having to replace the entire module at a cost of £100 + labour. Bosch clearly know it’s a design fault and are really not looking after their customers well.
My SGS5312 failed in a similar way and I repaired it myself by remaking the relay connection and replacing the 2003 darlington transistor array chip that drives the relays. Now all working fine. This is obviously not a general DIY job, so I would not recommend this approach for all unless you have access to good electronic assembly facililities.
I too am an electrical engineer and had the exact failure you had – including the need to replace the darlington array.
The small trace leading up the relay pad is done to permit wave soldering to work better. The problem is, it simply can’t handle the load. I’ve lost all respect for Siemens based on that design
Curious as to how you diagnosed yours. Mine was showing up with no display whatsoever after it failed in the middle of a run. I measured a near short across one of the relay coils (oddly a motor relay, not the heater relay). This in turn led me to the darlington array that had somehow had blownout the protection diodes to the common pin 9. This in turn was effectively shorting the power supply and causing everything to be dead.
Interestingly enough, after the repair (I admit to having been apprehensive about the replacement of that SMD) it started right back up where it left off – 13 minutes to go.
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