Hotpoint 95360 damage from overloaded wash

[inisfad]

Here is a photo of the new suspension rod, along side the one that originally broke. You’ll see that the top and bottom of the original was the square piece, while the new one only has that on the top. Funnily enough, I can push the new one in, when I put my weight on it. I wonder if perhaps the first installation of the new rod was so difficult for the guy to push in, as we had never tried to push it in before the installation…..I’m wondering if I can actually do this myself…..
https://imgur.com/a/RFdNQep

[iadom]

A badly worn plastic dome under that shim will allow the top of rod to flop about and would cause instability. Also a suspension unit of that age is long overdue for a change.

[inisfad]

I was never able to actually see what the top of the original one looked like, as the suspension rod that initially broke, basically broke in 2 dislocated halves. By at least yo ave given me direction, and hope that the issue is the old suspension rod. Thank you for your keen eye in seeing the tear in the shim. If there is any ‘plus’ to this, at least I don’t have to deal with the clips on the outer tub with this. I’m going in (eventually, as soon as I can find a helper). Will let you know how I get on. As usual, thank you for your expertise and info. Wish me luck….:)

[iadom]

Go for it, you have very little to lose apart from a bit of skin.;)

[electrofix]

also you have mis match between the 2 sides. why has the original oblong plate been removed on one side? you can see the mark on the chassis where its been This will make one side more flexible

Dave

[inisfad]

The old suspension rods had that square piece on both the top and the bottom of the suspension rod. The new replacement one only had one square piece, which was the same as this video, so we followed those instructions:

https://youtu.be/LGoVzfDp1CE
The new rod that I will (attempt to) put in will be the same as the replacement in your second photo….the square piece will be bolted at the tub.

By the way, I thought it might be a good idea to at least clean the tub filter, while I’m under the machine. Sadly, it doesn’t ‘screw out’ like all the videos I’m seeing, but is in the rubber outlet hose. There is a kind of jubilee clip that appears to be holding the filter in, so that the water doesn’t drip out around the filter. While I was fiddling with this yesterday, I opened the screw on the jubilee clip, but the metal band is pretty much ‘welded’ to the rubber hose. Should I be trying to ‘unscrew’ this filter, or turn it, to get it to loosen from the rubber hose? I do not have a replacement outlet hose, nor a replacement filter (I thought maybe I could just rinse it out). I’ve never touched or cleaned the filter (and suspect that, due to its position, Hotpoint never anticipated that the washing machine owner would do this). Or should I just leave this alone? If the filter is filled with muck, does that just mean that whatever dirt or pet hair being rinsed off the clothing just washes out through the drain, or does a filled up filter impact the way the machine drains??

[inisfad]

In looking at the photos that Electrofix posted, I suppose I could have been more ‘creative’, by taking the old square pieces that were on the original suspension rod and removing that orange piece on the bottom of the new one, and replacing it with the square piece. Should I have done that??

[inisfad]

Regarding the video I posted above, if you start at about 4:15, it shows my suspension rod and how it’s put together. That’s what I followed.

[electrofix]

but if you look at the chassis in that video its designed for round rubbers and yours is not

early machines the square plate is at the bottom later ones the moved it to the top

not sure what difference it makes but having them both the same must be better

if I think on next week i have probably got manuals in work to see damper setup

you have to remeber the kit you bought was a universal kit, you only use the parts you need and you replace like for like. your video is a later machine

Dave

[inisfad]

Sadly, the kit that I bought was the only kit that I could find for an older Hotpoint….I understand that the video I linked is for the Hotpoint model that came shortly after the 95360 (and that SelfixUK site was also the one that had the video for the bearings as well, which I followed). There appears to be nothing that is simply ‘plug and play’ for my machine….even the drain pump that I installed was entirely different, had different electrical connections, etc, even though it was considered ‘Hotpoint’.
By the way, my early machine had the square plate both on the bottom and on the top.
I still have the square pieces that were intact from the original suspension rod. If you look just above the square piece, which I moved down away from the original shock:
https://imgur.com/a/2BJuhxT
you’ll see an octagonal piece of rubber? (although it is very hard), that appears to be part of the black suspension rod itself. I can’t separate it from the shock. The new ones did not come with that. So if I remove the orange rubber piece from the universal one (in order to put the original block back on) there is nothing in between the original metal block and the new shock. If I add the original block, then the shock becomes too short to bolt back to the chassis.
I’m hoping that it’s ok to use the universal shock. I understand what you mean about both sides needing to be the same. I had GREAT difficulty trying to find someone to help me do this….I’m going to do it by myself tomorrow.
Aside from the question as to whether I can actually push the shock on to the rod enough, in order to get it to clear the chassis so I can bolt it, I’m also wondering as to how easy it’s going to be to remove 40 year old rusty bolts.

[inisfad]

LOL….I see on my old shock it’s made by Suspa Germany. I searched for “008 061” in their catalog. Guess what????? The don’t make it anymore…..

[electrofix]

there is nothing wrong with the dampers themselves they are fine

as long as both dampers are changed at the same time, changing one causes problems as you have one stiff one and one looser one which makes it bang the sides

Dave

[inisfad]

It worked ok until now, and hopefully the issue is that (perhaps due to the fact that one was looser/one tighter) the tub is wobbling/banging like in the video. Hopefully the old shock is the problem. Of course I’m not appliance guru, but i cannot see anything that appears broken or untoward with this machine. I’ll post how the machine runs once I get the new shock in (pray for me!!). In the meantime, I actually sent Suspa an email to see if they have any old/new stock laying around. I’m sure they’ll get a laugh when they see the part number I’m looking for.
Thanks for confirming, however, that the universal shocks will work well, as long as they are the same. Sadly, I’ve seen videos of newer machines, like Arista, and all you need to do is remove the side and unbolt/bolt up. In a perfect world, they should all be like this (although perhaps those machines have the welded tub, so no bearing repair….there’s always a price to pay for everything).
Thanks again for your help. I hope to tackle this on Monday……

[inisfad]

Just one question….I’ve been ‘practicing’ trying to push that damper on to the rod. I can do it with my weight (having the top of the damper on the floor, and then pushing down on it). But there is no way that I can just do it lengthwise, with my ‘strength’. Is there any secret trick to being able to do this, without brute strength???

[electrofix]

like this

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1601958-hotpoint-washing-machine-shock-absorber

your model is listed

dave

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