Hotpoint 95360 inlet valve filter

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 152 total)
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  • #481179
    inisfad
    Participant

    I’ve decided not to give up on this. With the new suspension rod and the fact that the machine is now leveled properly, it sounds and feels like a new machine. When the suspension rod broke, it actually broke in half somehow. I’m not quite sure how this happened, but the ‘female’ part of the suspension was still attached at the floor, and the ‘male’ part had completely dislocated so that I was able to just pick it up when I reached down from the top of the machine. They had disconnected from each other, and the metal ‘shim’ thing that the two round plastic bushes fit into, was on the floor. The top of the female part had some rough, pointy edges on it, that had broken. Perhaps this caused some pinhole leaks further down on the drum that I cannot get to, without taking the inner drum out. I am now seriously curious about what is causing this, so will dive in to investigate.

    #481180
    iadom
    Moderator

    I very much doubt the lower part of the suspension unit could damage the drum.

    #481181
    inisfad
    Participant

    I’m grasping at straws…lol. But the sheared off piece of the top part of the lower suspension would be sharp enough to nick you. Anyway, I’ll get the 30mm ring scanner tomorrow eve, and dig in on Thursday. If I can’t find any other holes in the drum, I’m not sure I’ll know whereas to look. If you have any suggestions of other things to look at, while the inner drum is out, please let me know. The machine started to leak as the water was filling in, before it began the wash cycle, so whatever is leaking is at the bottom somewhere. The water hadn’t gotten up to the level of the gasket at the door, or even the edge of the inner drum by the door. So whatever it is, it appears to be at the very bottom of the machine. Hopefully I’ll find the answer to this on Thursday.

    #481182
    iadom
    Moderator

    If the leak starts soon after it starts filling then I would follow my suggestion and just remove the cabinet front panel and pour some water in first.

    #481183
    inisfad
    Participant

    No, it doesn’t start to leak until there is at least a few inches at the bottom of the inner tub. While this may not be scientific (lol) I had the ‘ridges’ in the inner tub level with each other, so I could count the ‘hole level’ before the tube started to leak. Not sure if you understand what I mean, but the tub started to leak at the second row of holes, down from the ridge. So there was a bit of water in the tub. It did not start right away. So I have to surmise that wherever the water is coming from is not from the very bottom of the tub, but perhaps a few inches up on the plastic drum, on the left.

    #481184
    inisfad
    Participant

    The ‘dismay’ at having to go back in again and dismantle, has gone. I’m ready to do this, even if it’s just for the curiosity to find where this is leaking…..the more I think about this, the more it seems logical that it’s the plastic tub….???

    #481185
    inisfad
    Participant

    HELP!!! I’ve removed the 30mm bolt from the pulley. The ‘instructions’ on the video that I was following advises to then spin the inner tub anti clockwise to remove the pulley. Nope. That pulley won’t budge at all. Is there a trick to this???

    #481186
    inisfad
    Participant

    I’m bloody and panicking….lol. Forget the above. I finally got the pulley to come out by wedging some wood in the spokes and turning it as hard as I could…whew. Now on to getting the inner tub out.

    #481187
    inisfad
    Participant

    Well, I wish I knew what I was looking at. I see no holes, nicks, cuts, gashes ANYWERE. Even where I found the little gases on the outside near the suspension rod, apparently did not cut through the tub entirely. There is no indication of them there. The bottom of the tub still had a bit of water in it (probably because I didn’t drain in fully??) but I see nothing. The bearing in the back looks ok…not that I know what a good bearing looks like. I’m totally stumped…..
    I had replaced the front seal when I did the bearings about 5 years ago. It looks fine, although there is a bit of hardened material (lime) around the bottom. I’m going to remove it, clean it up and replace it with the bottom of the seal up at the top. Maybe this is the culprit….I don’t know, but I’m running out of areas to look.

    #481188
    bammec
    Participant

    I’d test around all the tub with a hosepipe on full. If this passes, bung up the holes for any pipes and fill the tub up with water.

    Also use a bright torch and have somebody checking for any light coming from holes that shouldn’t be there.

    If the above passes, then it could be that the water is weeping from either a pipe/hose or a dirty joint. Does the rubber look perished in any way?

    Upload some photos and perhaps somebody can see something that you can’t. Just upload the pictures to an image host and link us to them.

    #481189
    iadom
    Moderator

    Did you not try and fill the drum with a pan or kettle before taking the drum front off as advised?

    #481190
    inisfad
    Participant

    No, I didn’t try to fill the drum with water, but can do that now, as I’m reassembling. The only issue I can see is either the fill hose (and I have a replacement, so will change it while all’s apart, or the seal on the front drum. My issue initially with filling the drum with water was how to get rid of the water, once there was a kettle full of water in the drum. I am unable to remove the drain pipe from under the cabinets, and frankly, am nervous about plugging the machine in with everything disassembled. I can barely move the machine out to work on it…..blah blah blah…just excuses!
    By the way, I did the thing with the light behind the drum. There are no leaks there. The area that the front seal sits in was full of limescale. I have cleaned that off. I’ll get another seal, just in case, and putting a new seal on isn’t nearly as complicated as taking the whole machine apart. At least I’ve confirmed that the plastic drum is fine, so wherever the leak actually is, will be pretty doable…..

    #481191
    iadom
    Moderator

    That seal is a common leak area, fitting a new one is advisable whenever the drum front is removed. The drum front seal can get tint holes in the creases, there is usually a tell tale sign on the outside of the seal or on the outside of the drum, whitish streaks mainly.

    #481192
    inisfad
    Participant

    OK, I tried a kettle full of water in the drum. No leak. But there was far more water in it when it leaked when I tried to run it the other day. I have it all back together now, and to be honest, I’m exhausted. Trying to get those clips on to connect the outer drum to the plastic one, is just about beyond my capability. But all done now. I’m going to order a seal to go around the outer drum. While the seal looked ok, it was somewhat oval, and there was some debris on it. I’m not looking forward to dealing with those clips again, but I guess there’s no choice.
    I’ve been doing this for about 4 hours now, and am pretty exhausted…..I’ll look at it again tomorrow, to see if anything I’ve done has made a difference. Probably not….lol

    #481193
    iadom
    Moderator

    You should fill the drum up to the door seal level, you will have to ladle it out afterwards if you can’t drop the outlet hose.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 152 total)
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