ISE W1607W Spin fault

[iadom]

You need to make sure that the waste outlet pipe only goes down inside the standpipe about 6 or 7 inches. If the pipe is pushed a long way down into the standpipe that can also cause syphoning.

[BryanC]

Thanks for the advice. I can confirm that as far as the waste hose is concerned it is all as it should be but checked this morning to be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain. Incidentally, the machine has been in this setup for about 12 years without any fault or incident until the current spin issue at the start of this thread. Fortunately we are currently able to initiate a final spin & drain but only by clearing the memory at the point it fails to achieve selected spin speed and re-selecting spin & drain.

[iadom]

I hear what you say but if the outet hose is as you say then it is impossible for the water to drain out that way without the drain pump activating.???

[BryanC]

OK, a few days and wash loads have passed and I am starting to think that the spin problem is being caused by out of balance load however the problem has only really materialised more regularly over the last few months so a couple of new questions for you knowledgeable people:
Is there a sensor that detects OOB and if so do they become more sensitive over time?
Could the shock absorbers and balancing springs need replacing and if so is it a tricky job on the ISE W1607?

[electrofix]

I dont know for certain on this model but a lot of them measure the fluctuations in motor speed as the drum revolves

Dave

[iadom]

The sensing is done by the electronics, as a rule they do not go out of sync. Worn or weak suspension can cause OOB but is not something I have encountered on these machines. In fact the only time I ever changed a suspension unit was due to a leak from a vent hose at the back left (from front) side, made worse by serious over soaping. This had rusted the suspension rod. Generally you check the suspension in the same way you would on a car. Take the lid off and press down sharply and firmly on the drum. It should be quite hard to push down and return smoothly to its correct position without any signs of bouncing. Suspension kit is not cheap if it is still available and is a physically demanding task.

[iadom]

Suspension kit is still listed. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8801454-washing-machine-shock-absorber 😮

[BryanC]

Well guys this has become a bit of a brain teaser!
In my opening thread the problem was that the machine would fail to spin. After having the panels off numerous times, and with the help of you guys, eliminated the pressure switch and probably shock absorbers / springs as culprits (as they don’t often fail) but I replaced the belt for good measure and for a couple of washes it seemed to work ok, completing the full cycle and “END” appearing on the display… yippee. Hopes then came crashing down as this week it has reverted back to the original fault again. When it doesn’t complete a full cycle (at spin) the machine appears to retain the remaining minutes and continues to stop at that point going forward. I can’t seem to clear those minutes from the memory in order to start afresh. A rough example is that the machine has stopped with 15 remaining on the display. If we select a wash cycle that would historically show 1:20 it now displays 1:35 as if it is adding on the 15 outstanding but it will then shut down at 15 again. These figures are only rough as it is not that consistent. We know it can spin ok if it wants to, but not when we want it to! Some weeks ago before this current issue materialised we did appear to have an issue with the cycle selector knob seeming to have a mind of its own and not wanting to select the cycle that we wanted without some very gentle coaxing but that issue appeared to go away. From your experience could all of our issues stem from an aging and faulty control board? But obviously I am reluctant to buy and fit a new one if the same fault persists. Sorry if this thread is a bit long but this is a novice trying to explain a problem to you knowledgeable people as concisely as I can.
*
Final comment: In one of my earlier threads I mentioned water appearing to be exiting the machine without the pump running but on reflection I think I was being stupid, over reacting and it was probably the water softener which is located under the sink flushing itself through…. apologies for that!!!
Bryan

[iadom]

The selector knob on my own machine has on the odd occasion appeared to lose its ‘focus’ 🙂 Something that is more common on certain models of less expensive machines such as some Chinese made Hoover/Candy appliances and even one Vestel made version of ISE. One fix on those machines was to spray electrical switch cleaner (NOT WD 40) into the back of the rotary switch through any tiny holes you could find and rotate the switch knob several times. As yet I have not had to spray my own machine but did get the selector knob to function correctly by rotating it vigorously several times whilst switched OFF. I have never had the programme stop mid cycle and do get OOB episodes when there is obviously a difficult to balance load in the machine.

[BryanC]

This morning our machine took another unexpected turn. Instead of carrying out a full wash cycle (probably excluding the spin as it has done of late) it ran for just one minute filling, then drained and stopped. Tried clearing the memory by holding in the stop/start button + power button to try repeating the cycle but on each occasion it did exactly the same thing again. Seem to be unable to reset the machine’s memory and it tries to restart where it last failed. Anybody know of another way of forcing a factory reset? Also, is this possibly another sign of the control board failing as I am running out of ideas?

[iadom]

Did I send you the full service manual, can’t remember now. Sadly it is pointing to a breakdown on the main pcb. If I didn’t send you the manual then send me your email by PM and I will send it to you. If you do have the manual then any reset procedures will be in there.

[BryanC]

Hi Iadom, thanks for your reply and I suspected it was going in this direction. The full service manual would be very helpful please… how do I send you a PM with my email? Are there various PCBs on the machine or is it obvious when I go on the UK Whitegoods parts section which part I need?

[iadom]

Click on my name in my profile panel. There is only one main control panel which is seriously expensive.

[iadom]

This is the control module for your machine if it is still available. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8088613-washing-machine-control-unit

[BryanC]

Hi guys, I am back again with further updates. I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement control panel from UK Whitegoods as all indicators seem to point towards a faulty unit. We were able to limp along while waiting for the replacement part as sometimes the machine would wash but not rinse or spin, other times it would rinse and spin only and bizarrely on the odd occasion would work perfectly! The new part arrived a couple of weeks ago and today (because it is raining outside) I found the time to fit the replacement unit. I had already practised the exchange by removing and disassembling and re-fitting the faulty unit a few times so when I set my mind to the swap it didn’t take too long however, when I powered up the washing machine with the new panel fitted it tripped out the power in the house. I retraced my steps to check all was ok but still the power tripped. I reverted to replacing all the parts back to the original circuit board and re-fitted it and no power outage so by my reckoning the board seems to be either faulty or incompatible with our machine. I noticed that the label on my original board stated part no.5704 XAB but the new board is labelled 5704 XBH. I assumed this just indicated a model upgrade but would still be compatible. Have you guys ever come across these part numbers before and can you shine any light on what might be the problem? I have also emailed this question to Spares at UK Whitegoods for their feedback.
Thanks
Bryan

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