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One of the biggest problems with working on these machines is the fact that they where so reliable. Machines with lots of faults usually mean that in a short space of time most people in the trade become familiar with the known faults on them. As far as the ISE 10 goes I had quite a few on my area before I retired and never changed a pcb on any of them. Do all the connections appear to be the same on both boards?
Thanks for your prompt reply. All the connectors appear identical, however there does appear to be slight differences in the layout of some of the components.
Hi guys. Further update while “her indoors” washes clothes in the bath!
I contacted both UK Whitegoods spares and Robertshaw (the control panel manufacturers) to confirm that part supplied is correct for our machine and if there was any possibility of a fault causing house RCD tripping when new panel is fitted and machine powered up. Haven’t had a response from Robertshaw (and probably won’t) but did get a prompt reply from UK Whitegoods confirming part is correct albeit updated. They were unable to assist me with the conundrum of the tripping RCD while not tripping the original control panel (when fitted). They suggested that there might be a fault (or dampness) on the thermistor, motor or Inverter Card which might be tripping the RCD.
My question now is whether I could re-fit the new panel and power on but leaving some of the plugs un-connected to identify which circuit is tripping the RCD: plug 2 = Thermistor, plug 3 =Inlet valves, plug 4 = Door switch, pump & pressure switch, plug 8 = power (I assume that always needs to be connected), plug 9 = Heater and pressure switch (again!), plug 10 = motor.
My intention would be to not actually run the machine with any of the plugs disconnected but just identify if any single connection trips the RCD when powered on.
Could this cause any damage to the control panel or the machine itself?
Also, where do I find the inverter card and Thermistor?The inverter card is in the base and the thermistor is clamped to the side of the outer drum. If it isn’t tripping with the old pcb then I very much doubt the inverter or thermistor are the cause of the problem. Does it trip as soon as you plug in or after you press the on/off switch. I would try it with just the mains power plug connected first. Tripping can cause damage to the pcb, that is why they are usually sold without any guarantee, standard practice from virtually all manufacturers.:(
Hi, its me again. Now weather has turned, I am back indoors again and need to work on the washing machine again. Iadom, in your last reply you asked if RCD was tripping with just power supply connected. In answer to your question the RCD trips as soon as the machine is connected to the supply. Incidentally, I couldn’t easily tell whether the machine switch was on or off so I put a continuity across both terminals of the on/off switch on the new control panel (disconnected from the washing machine and any power source) and am getting no signal with the switch either apparently on or off which seemed odd and visually the little plunger on the switch constantly returns to the same position. On the old panel (which still works but has a mind of its own and refuses to complete a full cycle, sometimes doesn’t wash, sometimes doesn’t rinse, sometimes doesn’t spin, sometimes works perfectly … but very rarely) you can clearly see if the switch is on or off by the position of the plunger. The only time I can get an ON continuity signal on the new panel is if the plunger is held in (by my partner as I don’t have enough hands!). This doesn’t seem right to me unless the design has been changed to incorporate a momentary switch ???
I need to pick on your vast knowledge again as I am still convinced I have been supplied a duff control panel or at least one that doesn’t conform to my machine.I am a little puzzled, I am fairly certain this machine always had a momentary on/off switch, I’m sure mine does. Numbers actually on the boards are often confusing , the original part number was 8088613 and of the three shown in the service manual the one for the W1607 is also shown as 808862-01. I don’t ever remember any information about a change to the on/off switch but it may have happened or perhaps your switch is sticking slightly????? Is the plug for the two wires supplying power in the same place on both boards, fairly central on a double plug with the other connector going to the heater? Very difficult from here but looking at the three different boards the power connection socket seems to be in the same place on all three. When you are certain the on/off switch is actually off does it trip as soon as you switch on the power with only the single two pin power plug connected before you push the on/off switch? If it is then fine with the old board this would suggest a problem on the new board. One of the three boards shown in the manual appears to have a different connector on the pcb, six connections instead o of four. You can see the three options on pages 42/45 in the manual I sent you, Page 44 is for your machine.
My old control panel definitely has a latching switch: press it and the stem stays depressed and makes the circuit, press again and the stem pops out and breaks the circuit. The new board has a switch that looks identical but doesn’t latch in when pressed and only makes a circuit if it is manually held in.
The RCD trips immediately when the power is connected and I guess the machine is in OFF mode (as the switch isn’t making a circuit until pressed… which I didn’t do).
I am assuming the on/off switch is not handling the incoming power as plug 8 is listed as “POWER” on the circuit diagram so my guess is that the ON/OFF switch is designed to interrupt that supply somehow but the RCD has already tripped by that point. Plug 8 is located in the same position on both boards with plug 9 next to it for Heater/Pressure Switch. Are you suggesting I should attempt to power up with only plug 8 (POWER) connected and ALL the others disconnected? I haven’t tried that as I was concerned that it might cause damage either in the machine or on the circuit board? If you say it is ok I will try it now? The board seems to match the one shown on page 44 with just plugs 8 & 9 (2 connections on each).Yes, power up with only plug 8 connected, can’t do any damage to the machine or anything to the board that it hasn’t already. If it powers up and occasionally works with the old board then logically the fault must be on the new board. How the fault got there is however open to conjecture.[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/core/core/images/smilies/evil6.gif”}[/IMG2]
Hi Iadom. OK, I have connected plug 8 (power) only and the RCD didn’t trip. I pressed the ON/OFF button (thinking nothing would happen) and the machine came to life…. RCD still OK. What do you recommend as my next move?
BryanWeird, pray, stand on one leg with your left arm behind your back,:D You could try plugging the other connection to the heating element that goes into the same block as the power plug then trying again. If it trips it suggests that the connections in that plug are suspect. What other plugs had you put in when you tried it before.
Another ‘off the wall’ suggestion. Remove the back panel, take the two wires off the heating element main terminals then check the insulation readings of the heating element. Heating elements with even very small earth leakage are known to cause all sorts of spurious and seemingly unrelated faults on many different machines.
Up until now I have only tried it with ALL the connectors plugged in = Tripped RCD.
Power connector (8) only plugged in = RCD not tripped and machine display illuminates.
Tomorrow I will try it with plugs 8 (power) and 9 (heater & pressure switch) connected.I have only got a Fluke 83 Multimeter at this time. I don’t think I can check insulation readings with that can I ?
iadom wrote:Does it trip as soon as you plug in or after you press the on/off switch. I would try it with just the mains power plug connected first. .:(
Checking back I did suggest trying it with JUST the mains power plug connected a few days ago.;)
Not familiar with the Fluke multimeter, always used a proper megger but Fluke gear is very good so it should be possible to do a simple insulation test with it. You should test between either of the two heater connections and the earth terminal. What actual model of Fluke multimeter have you got?
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