Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

[kwatt]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

I don’t think that’s possible, I think that sort of thing has been tried in the past without success.

K.

[Markdubya]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi Please can someone tell me is there a service kit made up for the front board and where I can get it from if so.

My unit is a S20b tsb21-A/g

Service code 8586 150 15002

11 0405 011803

Problem at the moment isn’t too bad but would like to get it running as it should do.

When activating ice crusher or water dispenser get the light and display flashing.

Please help

[tonitony]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi all

Seeking some urgent help, whirlpool S20BRSS31

The compressor, condensor fan, evap fan is running but the fridge is not cooling/freezing.

I noticed the freezer panel was built full of ice which has now been defrosted, the fridge is now back on and has been running for 4 hours or so but there is only a light build up of ice

Would this indicate a problem with the board?

[onibhoy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

The loud clicking coming from the “rear” of these “American style side by side” fridge freezers is usually caused by the rear control board. This is a couple of hundred pounds to change though, and if your unit was pre 2003 model, you really need to change the front panel control board at the same time, adding up to around 3 to 4 hundred pounds in total.

However, in most cases, the cause of the “loud clicking” noise, which can also stop momentarily when you open both doors at the same time, comes from either of the the three black relays on this control board, resulting in various fridge freezer malfunctions, as this is the main control board for the unit remember. The cause of this is not the relays, but usually one or more of the blue capacitors on this board having died slowly over time. The repair kit from ukwhitegods here fixed mine completely, and the freezer, icemaker and water dispenser all work normally again. (havent for years until freexer finally packed in altogether last week) This repair does not need any other replacement parts, so a very economic alternative, even if you have to get an electrician to do the repair for you, which is quite easy if you are used to basic soldering.

Note that if your unit “only” has a “quiet ticking” noise, accompanied by annoying flashing display panel / lights, but works okay otherwise, this fault is more likley to be the front control panel, so identify if you have a “loud rear clicking” noise, or a “quiet front ticking noise / flashing light problem first of all. Loud clicking = rear panel capacitors, quiet ticking and flashing = front control panel unit. Hope this helps guys, I changed the capacitors one by one incidentally, powering up after each change, and it was in fact the small round one, C2, causing most of the trouble on mine. Most of the time it seems to be the large rectangle one at C1 position, but it can be any or all combinations, so change all of them out. Hope this helps guys, Onibhoy.

[SAMURI]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

If the freezer rear panel was frozen then you may not have fully defrosted it as it can build up a lot of ice behind the panel.

Try turning it off for 48 hours / 2 Days then see if it works ok.

If it does and the problem returns after a few weeks the it could be a defrost heater fault

Bob

[K3vc]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hello all. After reading though this threads I believe I need a new rear board for my Whirlpool S20D RBB32-A/G (8586 158 15000).

Currently I get intermittent errors flashing on the front display showing a temperature warning for the freezer. It happens once or twice a day and seems to resolve itself with the freezer getting back to temperature eventually.

I have however noticed that several replies mention that if the fridge/freezer is old enough I may need to replace both boards.

I was hoping if someone could advise if I would need just the rear board to possibly solve my problems or if I would need both front and rear?

Thanks in advance, Kev.

[Ventrilllo-CZ]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

tonitony wrote:Hi all

Seeking some urgent help, whirlpool S20BRSS31

The compressor, condensor fan, evap fan is running but the fridge is not cooling/freezing.

I noticed the freezer panel was built full of ice which has now been defrosted, the fridge is now back on and has been running for 4 hours or so but there is only a light build up of ice

Would this indicate a problem with the board?

I have same problem with same freezer. 🙂 Do you know what this is causing?

[clicktyclick]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

I don’t know if anyone looks a t this forum anymore but I’ll try asking. My freezer has started freezing solid which I suspect is either the heating element in the back of the freezer or the timer. I fully defrosted the frozen coils and the fridge worked for about 2 weeks then it was frozen up again. I measured the element and it showed around 80 ohms not sure what a good value is. Where is the defrost timer circuit, is it a mechanical timer or some electronics on one of the boards if so which board and how do I test it?

[westfielder]

Hi all,

I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000 Side By side FF
With help on this board and after replacing many components on the rear board 13 years ago it has been running well.

However…. with a new fault I am hoping that the symptoms may allow someone to point me in the right direction.
Not having a circuit diagram has been a hindrence.

Over last few years the front panel (inside in the fridge in my model) has been developing a display fault – it started with the LED display winking out briefly about twice a second. The mark/space of time for the ‘winking out’ changed slowly to 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} on 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} off twice a second to eventually become just flashing on briefly twice a second and finally off all the time. However, the default settings/functioning of the FF has been working fine so didn’t need to use the panel. However, can’t read any fault codes that might be there) I don’t think that the buttons are doing anything on the panel. It has 15v supply but I don’t know what supply voltage from the rear PCB should be.

Then…

A few weeks ago the house RCD tripped and the fridge bulb had blown (big black stain on bulb interior) and Relay RL3 was chattering randomly –
I took the board out and noticed a fried circuit track where it looped thinly either side of component hole that was unused.
I soldered in a bridge over the gap.
Restarted the FF. From then the freezer cools to -32c and warms up to -2c and down to -32 etc.. The fridge varies in temp but does go as low as 0c and high as +9c. Alongside this, when the compressor is not running we can heard a ticking noise and identified that the compressor fan was turning slowly about ?100 rpm
There’s no ice build up, the freezer to fridge air louvres are opening and closing when you switch the FF on, and do seem to open and close at different times. The evapourator fan seems fine as does the compressor fan, the bottom of the fridge is dust free and the rear panels are all on to allow proper cooling of the condensor motor.

I pulled the board again, checked all the capacitors (I have a slightly different board to many) and all the capacitors I had used from one brand have failed again. I took all the caps out and measured them.

C6, C16 should have been 068uF and were in the order of a few nF
C14, 26, 27,28 should have been 0.1uF and were 0,.6nF, 2nF, 10nF and 38nF respectively.

All other film and electrolytic capacitors were within tolerance.

I replaced all the faulty caps thinking that I had found the display problem (because Brodders has told me in the past that C6 and C16 relate to the front panel) and the cooling issues and fan issues but NONE had been cured 🙁

I checked the continuity to the front panel of all connectiions and they’re fine. Also checked the 2 electrolytics on the front board.

So I am at a bit of a loss. I have checked the zener diodes in situ and all have about 6v forward voltage drop

I cannot find a replacement board due to different connectors on my unit – so unless I can fix we will have to fork out for a new FF 🙁

Any guidance would really be appreciated.

Hoping the Brodders Baldrick still frequents the forum – he has been super helpful in the past.

Hopefully

Nick

[westfielder]

A little progress…..

Replaced the triacs and bridge rectifiers again.

Outcome:

The constant slow running of the compressor fan has now stopped…. Yaaaahh

The front panel supply voltage is now steady 5V

BUT

the front panel still ‘appears’ dead.

New front panel ordered – will update….

[westfielder]

It’s fixed ….

Happy to report that the fridge freezer is working fine after the actions taken above and a new front panel (£45 on eBay)
Keeping temp – freezer -20c to -22c and Fridge +0.5c to +4c. They do both seem a little cold considering that the settings of -18c and 6c respectively – however, this could possibly be my thermometer.

Happy enough
Thanks for the help above chaps

More information that may be useful to others here:
https://maker.pro/forums/threads/whirlpool-side-by-side-american-style-fridge-freezer-too-hot-and-too-cold.298301/#post-1836296

[JeremytheBullfrog]

Alex91284 wrote:Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hello,

hopefully someone is reading this threat again but i also want to repair my fridge (S20ERAA2V-A/G)
It think that the front module capacitors are broken (flickering lights when Ice Dispenser is in use) but i have searched a lot for replacement parts, but no result.
Can somebody tell me where to buy them?`

Here are a pic of them:
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://abload.de/img/kondensatorkhqor.jpg”}[/IMG2]

Admittedly I’m a new member, but been in the electronics industry for a while. The original capacitors pictured here were made by a company called AV arcotronics, they were bought over/absorbed into a company called Kemet. The capacitors are standard 0.68uF – 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} tolerance 250V , MKP=metallized polypropylene film, and they’re axial mounted (leads come out the ends bit like a car axle) , Admittedly I can’t tell the physical dimensions , but something like this if it physically fits will do the job. Diameter 8.5mm – length of body 20.5mm, made by the company Kemet that took over AV Arcotronics. The .33uf Version from Kemet is 6mm diameter, body length 20.5mm. Just discovered mouser will only sell in quantities of 750, so the links below other than showing their replacement probably aren’t much help.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta…p9yOMuHQ{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D

Should save a whole load of faffing about trying to fit rectangular caps in place of axial ones. Incidentally Kemet do 630Volt rated caps too, which will no doubt last longer.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta…GEBpWe3A{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D

Anyway maybe not so helpful as originally thought.
Regards
Jeremy

[Author]

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