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Up until now ive managed to sell customer a new machine if bearings/rear half need replacing, but all good things come to an end. Could anyone tell me the easiest method for this job and are any special tools required cheers Paul.
Re: WMA bearing change
Welcome to the site Paul 😀
The WMA bearing change is slightly more involved than the WM series. Access is the same, the shock absorber pins are a bit tricky at first but I am sure with a decent pair of grips you’ll suss that one 😉
All comes out the front just the same though and no special tools required :tup:
Re: WMA bearing change
Perhaps a few posts here about the best way to get the Suspension Pins out?
I use a threaded screw, similar the to the screws that secure the concrete balance weights to WMA machines, welded onto the end of a twelve inch metal tee bar. This is similar to the tool supplied to Hotpoint engineers. I had a friend weld this for me at my local garage workshop.
It is screwed into the pivot pin and then (whilst holding the securing lug down with thumb and forefinger) the pin can be pulled out with a good tug. I usually sit on the floor with my foot against the drum for leverage.
Be careful about re-using the pin if the lug gets damaged. I normally fit a new pin if the old one is damaged.
Bob
Re: WMA bearing change
I use a long reach 13mm socket to push over the barb side of to pin which keeps the barb pressed in and then use a large pair of 90 degree long nose pliers to pull the pin out. 😆
Re: WMA bearing change
i just press the lug with my one hand and pull with pliers with the other hand.
Re: WMA bearing change
I really don’t see any difficulty getting those pins out; they’re only the same as Zan split tubs, aren’t they?
I think it’s misleading to say (Martin) that the WMA is “slightly more involved” without making clear that you’re using understatement (IMO) and “no special tools required” is stretching the meaning of “required” a bit (IMO). This thread so far has been reading like some sort of joke being played on an apprentice.(As we stand back and wait to see how he gets on with a new challenge).Paul, I’d reccommend you don’t book any other calls that afternoon ’cause if you do you’re gonna be late and possibly in a mess and bleeding. I’d also reccommend that you use this site’s own forum search facility to find out more about what you’ve let yourself in for.
OK, perhaps the job ain’t THAT bad but most of those who do it regularly are well prepared beforehand.
Mike.Re: WMA bearing change
first dont think about replacing the bearings even with hotpoints tool kit its only possible half the time if your lucky. rear half tub is better option as if you try and fail you will curse the time wasted, try later on the old tub if you want. spider replacement is more tricky and I now always take off the paddles then get the bolts nice and hot and out they come( not a job for inside the customers house ) I fit new bolts from local engineering supplies plated M8x25mm c/sk allen keyed on, a fraction of hotpoints price.
wilf
ps watch out for some tubs coming with extra bolt fixing just below the soap dis cut it off or it will bang on the soap dis body the clip will fit next to this .
Re: WMA bearing change
Mike. We all must admit that it is a sod of a job, but any engineer worth his salt should be able to do it within two hours.
I always quote over the odds for this job and tell the customer about the five year parts gtee and hope I don’t get the job. I’ve done thirty or so of these over the last few years and have virtually always been able to complete the repair without too much grief.
I always fit the rear tub half as I can’t see the point of trying to get the bearing out when the customer has been quoted for a drum half and accepted the price.
Bob
Re: WMA bearing change
I only did the job once, a couple of years ago. Took best part of FOUR hours but this is Cornwall, we take life at a different pace down here. (Mind you, I did the whole job with the bearing kit and the new spider and it was the first time with no website to help me).
Couple of hours after getting home and lying down I realised Hotpoint would have only charged the same amount to do it under the five year parts warranty and subsequently referred these little earners to them.
Not sure what I’ll do if any of them outlast the 5 years and I’m asked to do one. Perhaps quote £140 or whatever will cover 2 hours and a rear tub half.
Mike.Re: WMA bearing change
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:
Not sure what I’ll do if any of them outlast the 5 years and I’m asked to do one.Personally, we just say “No”.
1) I haven’t got time
2) I would have to guarantee it.
3) The rest of it’s rubbish as well and I don’t want to end up on christian name terms with my customers.After we say “No” Julia says “Would you like to buy a Bosch?”
And from February we can say “ISE?”I think that it’s really the most humane course of action.
Chris.
Re: WMA bearing change
On a similar note, do you guys normally tackle Zanussi bearing changes or does the same apply? I HATE doing Zanussi ones but I do tolerate the Hotpoint ones. Come to that, I HATE all bearing changes.
Bob
Re: WMA bearing change
I would be quite happy to do Zanussi bearing jobs all day every day and not have to worry about tricky diagnostics on under-engineered computer boards. Not only do the broken bearings come out easier but the spider bolts are a LOT easier to get out.
Re: WMA bearing change
me too phildom ,set yourself up with the right kit its a nice little earner zanussi bearings? yes please!
wilf
Re: WMA bearing change
Phidom wrote:I would be quite happy to do Zanussi bearing jobs all day every day…
Agreed! You wanna spend the rest of your days just taking coins out of pumps. I find a bearing job brings job satisfaction with it.
And if it wasn’t for those peskie kids, errr, pegs, I could do those WMA’s in way under 2 hours.
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