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Re: Tricity Bendix Strata CSIE501SV – replacing element
These fasteners are gits. Have been regularly applying the wd40 in the morning and trying to unscrew them in the evening. Though I’ve managed to free off two of the fasteners, the other two won’t budge, even using a good fitting screwdriver with leverage. My next step was to use an impact driver – is that a bad idea? Will the metalwork take the strain?
Re: Tricity Bendix Strata CSIE501SV – replacing element
Thanks for that Martin. No dinner tonight until I’ve done this 🙁 – thinking about it, actually not a problem if other half is doing the cooking ! ;).
Re: Miele w1613
Used one more load of descalent mixed with boiling water – job done, water level sensor pipe cleared.
I used Waitrose good value own brand descalent – looked and smelt like citric acid. I now notice the water inlet in the detergent tray is a bit blocked so that it’s not clearing all the detergent on a fill, so that will need to come off for a good clean also.Re: Miele w1613
Update. Managed to get the lid off – it was a bit tight Cheers Steve – then the control panel, front panel (remove the detergent tray first, then unscrew the door interlock, the big bolt under the door seal and the door seal retaining wire and top two fasteners) and finally the lhs side panel (you have to do them in that order).
That gives access to the drain pipe work, and a oblong box thing that is just in front of the drain outlet at the back of the machine, all of which I managed to remove and clean through. Most of the pipes were packed with grey gunge. The big pipe from the drum to the pump was stuffed full of needles, safety clips, earings a couple of 10p’s and various other bits and bobs. Once rusty needle was poking out through the wall of the pipe in two places.
There was one more pipe that runs from the back of the control panel down to the bottom of the tub and attaches to a grey plastic unit – looks like it is to do with water level control. Couldn’t see how to get this off. The pipe was clear, but when I reattached and tried blowing down it there was alot of resistance like the plastic unit was blocked – maybe a one way valve here or something?
Once everything was back in place, I restarted the machine, it started to fill then a water inlet fault showed and the machine drained. There was water under the tub hose, the tiny holes made by the needle in the main tub drain hose were leaking.Tried repairing the holes but couldn’t get bicycle rubber repair or anything else at home to stick, and wasn’t sure if silicon sealant would be up to the job. That hose must be 60 or 70 quid so I took it to a local garage and they used a car tyre repair kit on it for me.
Reattached the hose and restarted the machine. The machine started to fill, and then a water inlet fault showed – loads of water flooding out. The tub hose had come off as I’d not tightened it enough (I was worried about over tightening it)
Cleaned up, reattached everything properly, put water in the drum and no leak.
Put everything else back and switch on (Express cycle).
The machine seemed to fill too much, and then a water inlet fault showed and it drained.
There was no sign of a leak, but could that plastic unit at the bottom of the drum be blocked and stopping air getting to the control panel? Anyone know how to get that off or clean it out?
At least the tub hose repair held.Re: Miele w1613
I did manage to get the maching to run through one full cycle, but it didn’t seem to do this unless I drained all the water out by remving the filter – but I think this might have just been coincidence. Next try I got “Fault F51”.
Removing the lid, I got stuck at the first hurdle. From what I can see, the lid is attached by four screws, one on each side and two at the rear.
I removed all of these, but couldn’t shift the lid by lifting or sliding toward the back. Am I missing something here? I didn’t want to use too much force without being sure about which direction it comes off in.Re: Miele w1613
The outlet pipe was also a bit clogged up, and the hose so I’ve flushed both through. It’s not made any difference so like you say it looks like I’ll be getting to grips with the pump. I suspect some of the internal pipework from the pump to the hose is still clogged up (the stub where the hose attaches was well gunged up). Any pointers on how to approach this job? I can see that the underside is not open so I reckon I may have to remove back and/or side panels. It’s bloomin’ heavy – can I safely rest it on it’s back without those transport poles in place or will there be damage from the drum moving about?
Re: Hotpoint TC71P condenser drier
Fitted the pin and all OK. Then a couple of days later, wife reports same problem. Dispair, then I checked the door again and the top hinge screws were a bit loose 😳 . Tightened them up and all well again.
I found a couple of places online that sell these kind of clips, but only in commercial quantities. Any chance that the Shop will get stock in of these?Re: Hotpoint TC71P condenser drier
Cheers Penguin. Have ordered the door pin. Hope this does the trick. No joy on the front panel retaining clips though. Does anyone have any idea where I can get some of these?
Re: Hotpoint TC71P condenser drier
Thanks for all the help fellas,
All was fine with the new relay in place for a few weeks, but I think that the door switch is now failing. When the door is closed the machine works for a couple of seconds, but then stops. If the door is pushed firmly, the machine stays on as long as you keep up the pressure.
I suspect that teenagers regularly pulling the door open instead of pushing it and then releasing to open has finally knackered it.
Of course this may have been the original problem, but maybe it was only showing when the switch was in situ.
Which switch do I need from the shop, and also can I get any replacements for those circular metal retaining clips that hold on the facia? There are only three left usable after my recent maintenance efforts.
Cheers.Re: Hotpoint TC71P condenser drier
Have replaced the duff insulation on the door switch, this now tests out as it should for continuity with door open/shut, and also tested the on/off switch. This seemed OK too. Lid on, plug in, power on set time, press “start” and hey presto everything works for about a second then it stops.
Tried again, opened and shut the door, reset time, same result.
Could this be a faulty relay?Re: Hotpoint TC71P condenser drier
OK, self help then, but any hints or tips will be welcome. Here is what I plan to do.
1 disconnect from mains
2 remove top
3 check door and on/off switches – if OK then
4 check heaterI’ve got as far as 3. Shifted the machine to the dining room and taken off the top. Checking the door switch, I’ve figured out that the door open switch is separate from the latch. I think I can see what some of the problem is. There is some corrosion around the spade connectors that are connected on top of the door switch. There are three wires close together here, two are paired one brown and the other brown and white. A third wire, pink and white, seems to be the output from the switch.
The paired wires terminate as a single spade, alongside the pink and white spade connector. The plastic insulation shrouds around both spade connectors are shot, and because the wires were pushing against each other, they were shorting across the switch.How do I remove the fascia to get better access to the switch? The front fascia seems to be located by several plastic pins, which are held in place by some push on washer shaped fasteners. If I ease these off, can they be re-used again?
Re: how long before the bearings give up the ghost alltogeth
Difficult to say how long the bearings will take to go – professionals will have a better idea, but from my experience I reckon you’re probably looking at anything between 3 days and two weeks, depending how on lucky you feel.
But remember you’ll want to allow yourself up to two weeks to get the new machine sorted out.
