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Yep, thanks Dave, disconnecting the top oven-bottom element seems to do the trick. Don’t really get why an open circuit heating element should cause all the other problems, but maybe that’s another example of the effects of cost cutting. I’ll just replace and keep fingers crossed.
Any suggestions for how to remove the top oven-bottom element? Do I need to go in from the back and remove all the insulation to get it out?
Is there any point getting a “genuine” replacement element?OK, bit of a delay to get over worst of the flue or whatever.
RCD “fuse” for cooker circuit off, tested for power to cooker, then once back off, tested again. Had back off and tested all the elements in situ for earth. Didn’t find any earth issues but did find that the top oven bottom element was open circuit – is it possible this is causing all the issues?Does anyone happen to know the size of the hex bolt heads which retain the grill elements? They look very small so I’ll need to get another micro bit set.
Sorry so late to reply, but for info, it was a Miele fella, was a while ago but think he had the motor with him. The replacement is still going strong, I’ve been using the Miele cleaner every few months for what it’s worth.
Late update… I coughed for a fixed price repair @£249 got a service visit a couple of weeks later, the tech seemed very knowledgeable, plugged his laptop in, tried to get it running, eventually did, said the motor was duff.. commutator wear, then after replacing that, discovered it was sticking on the 1st fill in each cycle.
He reckoned that was the main PCB, but said could also be other problems lurking that won’t become apparant until after the PCB is replaced…. so “BER” .. beyond economic repair. Said to call customer service, he was pretty confident they would credit the £249 on a new machine plus offer a big discount (he said someone with an 8 y/o machine he’d dealt with got offered an 80{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} discount).
He said once you got the replacement machine sorted, the old machine would be picked up and scrapped, recycled – complete with brand new motor!.COVID rules I guess.. what a waste, still looked in vg condiftion.
Anyhow, in the end (it took about 5 days to get through to their Customer Experience Team – BH weekend etc) and was 1st offered a machine where we had to pay another £200 odd, and as I started to grumble a bit, she said, oh no, as we don’t have the equivalent (and cheapest) machine in stock, you’ll get the next model up (the one offered) at no additional cost – that seemed pretty fair value to me.
So all in all, I was quite happy with the way things worked out. Customer Service were reasonable enough, and £249 for 4 1/2 years good washing performance seems reasonable enough – likely cheaper than renting.
Interestingly the tech said he reckoned the newer machines tended to be more reliable..Re: Miele W1613 out of balance?
Thanks for the comment/suggestion – although I’ve not had time to get the back off, pretty sure it’s not the spindle. When I replaced the springs and dampers, and there was still a lot of noise, I tried first pushing on the dampers from the side – that reduced most of the “clacking noise”, but the banging was still happening. Pushing the drum back by about 1/2 an inch also lifted the rear of the drum by about the same amount (and probably dropped the front a bit) – and that seem to stop the banging, and doing that while applying pressure to the dampers pretty much removed all the clacking/clattering etc.
Based on this, I think I’ll next try shifting the spring positions on the rear of the drum.
While I’ve had to spend quite a bit of time sorting this machine out, IF I get another five years relatively trouble free life out of it, I think that would be reasonable value.
Hearsay is dubious, but parents have had a Miele washer for about 12 years and spent £170 (call out plus new heating element, though it gets less abuse in that household.Re: Dishwasher powder in the salt reservoir – what happens?
Thanks Martin, it’s already been run a few times – what is the likely effect of the dishwasher powder on the water softener device/matrix?
Re: JLDW1201 drain hose replacement
Thanks for the advice. Would this do?:
Re: Zanussi ZCE7700X – electric. Thermostat problem?
Thanks for that, I’ll try and use the top oven seal from the Strat. Shame the thermostat isn’t compatible – what about the main oven element?
I’ve cleaned up the oven and switched on. Hob is fine. Got worried as neither of the ovens would work at first – tried setting the clock, got and rtfm, and that did the trick.
I’m not sure if I’ll bother replacing the main oven thermostat as £40 odd quid is alot right now, and it does work, although it’s under reporting the oven temp by about 40 degrees (at 150 on the control, the oven temp is about 190) . I’ll test it out across a few temperatures to see if it’s a consistent difference.
What I have noticed is that the fan oven doesn’t switch off when you open the door – should it? If so, is it an easy fix?Re: Zanussi ZCE7700X – electric. Thermostat problem?
Product number: 948522022
The Zanussi looks suspiciously like my old Tricity Bendix Strata (model: CS1E50rsv /product no: 948522105. Can I cannibalize that for any parts? The door seals look exactly the same (how do those come off?). Is there any chance the thermostats are interchangeable? Or even the main oven elements?Re: Zanussi ZCE7700X – electric. Thermostat problem?
Cheers, I’ll see if the seller find it / take a snap of that for me. whereabouts is it?
Re: Tricity Bendix Strata CSIE501SV – replacing element
Ok, I’ll try a few gentle blows with a hammer and the impact driver and see what happens – but is there a back way in to access the element and maybe even cut/grind off the back of the fasteners. I’m guessing they are self tappers and not secured by nuts?
