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Re: how long before the bearings give up the ghost alltogeth
Seven years from a Hotpoint washing machine sounds pretty good to me, but £100 a year sounds a bit much, especially if that doesn’t include the purchase price, and taking into account all the grief of breakdown, going backwards and forwards to the launderette etc.
I’d guess that as the amount of drum movement increases, eventually a few things will happen. First, the motor will start to have to work much harder to turn the drum. There ought to be some kind of sensor that will trip before the motor overdoes it. Second, once the bearing really starts to go, the bearing seal will go,and you’ll probably get some sort of a water leak from the bearing. Third, once the bearing starts to disintegrate, unless some anti vibration sensor or motor overload sensor kicks in, if it’s still spinning, it will probably fail completely and very quickly, allowing the drum to touch the inside of the tub making an almighty racket. It will hopefully stop completely then.
I reckon that even with the door shut, if you have normal hearing and any empathy for mechanical devices, you’ll have switched it of well before you get to that stage.
I’ve never heard of washing machine bearing failure being a serious safety hazard, but I’m sure the UKWG professionals have some stories. 😯Re: Zanussi TC470 condenser drier – not drying
Thanks for that Helo, I’ll be seeing the machine Friday so will have a look then.
Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Spin problem
Thanks penguin,
It’s definitely draining well – nice strong sound of a healthy flow, the filter is clear and the drain coupling too. and I can’t see water in the drum when it’s finished, and am getting the usual sound when the pump is scavenging out the last drops. Mind you I’ve not checked the manual drain pipe to see how much left in the bottom of the drum at the end of the drain process. And maybe I’ve done something to the rinse/drain sensor so it’s not working correctly (as according to wife the spin / drum turning problem only appeared after I had been fiddling with the drain pump/pipe work).
The motor is almost new, as I replaced it only about 6 months ago, so the brushes should be OK and there’s no sign of any sparking.
I just don’t understand how the machine ran OK yesterday for 3 full cycles when I tested it, but last night when wife used it all the same old symptoms appeared, and the “banging”. When I tried on several different programs last night, I found the same story, drum was rotating a couple of times and then pausing, instead of the continuous turn through the programs like it should when washing.
Looking at the drum, there definitely seemed to be some bounce after pushing it down and letting go, and more than I’d expected. It’s not a problem I’ve noticed before on other machines, maybe that’s only because they’ve always died of some other problem before the shocks went.
When it bangs, it’s a real big “thump”, and the whole machine jumps sideways. It happens immediately the machine drum goes into a spin from standing. It’s almost like there is something up with the motor control and it’s spinning up too quickly – and the shocks are just aggravating the problem. Maybe it’s the dodgy shock causing the motor to react in that way, and also the other “not-rotating properly” problem is something to do with the effect the dodgy shock is having on the sensors in the motor maybe, if that’s how it detects out of balance loads?
I’m worried that the new motor is knackered already, if that contains any of the speed control functions.
What I might try today is- – again checking all the connections I can under the drum to make sure they’re seated properly (that seemed to do the trick yesterday, and maybe a dodgy connection has just worked loose again).
– removing each shock to try and see which one (if any) is really knackered.Is removing a shock a big job – can I do it leaving the drum in place?
Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Spin problem
Tonight wife has used the machine on a different program and it’s showing the spin problem again. Something else that is happening is that there is occasionally a massive band as the machine spins up – though it stops again almost straight away.
I took the top off to see the drum suspension movement (switched off machine first) and there’s almost no resistance to movement when you puch the drum down (with a wet load still inside though).
Is it possible that the springs/shocks are knackered, and that there is a sensor detecting the massive drum movement (so much that it seems to hit the side of the machine)?
If it is the shocks springs I’m up for replacing these, but if the problem is really with the main board then I won’t bother replacing the parts, as the shocks are dead pricey (unless UKWG does some good cheaper pattern parts)..Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Spin problem
OK, I took the back off again and checked around underneath (and yes, I did unplug/switch off first) just make sure I hadn’t dislodged any wiring/plugs, as on the machine diagrams it looks like there is a rinse sensor under the drum. Well I couldn’t find anything unplugged, but I just pushed everything in a bit and had another go.
Well things seem better now, though I’m not sure if that was down to me. What I hadn’t tried was running a normal programme right through. I did this twice today and all seemed to run OK, with a correctly working full speed / length spin at the end of the programme.
I haven’t tried the stand alone spin programme again, as this wasn’t working, and I’ll have to check with wife to see just what programme she was using that wasn’t spinning out correctly – is it possible for one programme to be duff and the rest OK?
What I did notice when the back was off is that there is what looks like a bit of grease at the base of one of the shock absorbers. The machine does bang a bit and vibrate sometimes when spinning up/spinning, even when there is a good mixed load. I’ve made sure that it is completely leveled, and the floor is concrete. How long should the shocks last (the machine gets at least three loads a day)? Is it likely that new shocks would reduce the vibration – are they pricey?
Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Spin problem
Looking at the schematics on the BSH site, I noticed that there is a rinse sensor associated with the pump.
When removing the drain pipe, I had to “manhandle” the pump a bit – is it possible that this has upset the rinse sensor – could this be related to the spin problem? ❓Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Spin problem
Same story when empty. I’ve made sure it’s drained properly before the spin as well, but still no joy…
Re: Bosch Washer WFR2860GB – motor turning intermittent
Is it likely that I’ve got the same problem that DunkandJu had with his Bosch (earlier thread in this forum)?
He reckoned he had a “cracked carbon collar” or “annulus magnet”. The first time I changed the brushes, I also ended up completely dismantling the motor & so might have introduced some weakness in the “collar” when reassembling.
The behaviour of the motor when it runs also sounds much the same as his.Re: Bosch Washer WFR2860GB – motor turning intermittent
I had the motor out again to check brush contacts, and it looked like they were touching OK. I then removed the brushes to check the ends to see if they were making good contact. One has contact wear over about 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the tip of the brush, the other about half as much. I guess the contact area grows with use until they fully bed in (I even tried to speed up the bedding in process by attaching a battery drill and socket and spinning the drum via the spider bolt, with the belt on).
Both brushes seemed to be moving OK within the holders, although I didn’t remove these to double check and it’s hard be sure without the holders off.
There is a definite groove worn in the armature where the brushes touch, this looks to be about 1mm or so though I’ve not tried to measure directly.
When you start a cycle, eg spin, the motor seems to do one full revolution, then three small “steps” and then stops. It does this very consistently. I can’t see any signs of arcing.
When the motor does the small steps, the light in the room seems to dim slightly – a bit worrying that.
I even tried running a cycle with the belt off to see what difference that would make. It didn’t make any difference.
Is it possible that there is a loose contact somewhere between the main board and the motor, or maybe a solenoid that might be a bit duff?
I’m looking for an affordable to fix problem…otherwise I’ll be searching ebay or the small ads tonight for a replacement machine. If I call someone out that will be GB£50 for starters plus parts, and I’ll then be looking for something else major to go.
My dad has a Meile and that’s never gone wrong – what is the major spares cost for these like?
Would it be sensible to spend say GB£100 on a 5 year old one? I feel like for these machines the basic build quality and spares support is so good they are worth repairing for much longer than most of the other cra**ier brands. I just get fed up with having to junk machines where 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} is still working fine. Maybe next year I’ll have saved enough for one of your ISE ‘s.Re: Bosch Washer WFR2860GB – motor turning intermittent
So it looks like it’s had it’s chips then (pardon the pun). The PCB comes in at around 220 via Bosch.
Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Replacing Brushe
Thanks again Greg. As usual the site advice was excellent, and parts service the same. Like you say, even the “simpler” jobs are often not straight forward.
Like you say, what you pay for is the training, experience and backup of a professional technician. When I make a repair, especially for job I’ve not encountered before, there is a fair chance I will screw up and make the machine not cost effective to fix any more. I have a fair idea of what I’m getting into and accept the risk – largely because I have to. I’m a “tinkerer”, having a reasonable knowledge about basic electronics/physics and an interest in mechanical systems.
A professional will probably have seen several of your type of machine and know what the root cause of the fault is with a quick examination. I might take a few days of “trial and error”.
A good professional will do the job quickly and efficiently and usually give some kind of warantee with the job. They will probably also notice stuff that could, help avoid future problems, like the drive belt needing changing, or a leak from a pump or pipe.
So once again, a big thanks to Greg and the rest of the UKWG bods. 😀Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Replacing Brushe
Just to let you know what happened:
Ordered the brushes from UK Whitegoods and they turned up v fast – thanks!
Fitted them yesterday afternoon. It took me about two hours. I have got a quite bit of W/M maintenance experience already, but this is the first time replacing brushes on a Bosch.
You were right about it being better to replace the brushes with the motor out – there’s just no way you could do it in situ.
Motor removal itself was pretty straightforward, two bolts and remove the power /control plug, but the motor does weigh a ton! So the warning about dropping it is really worth noting. It does look very well put together though.
To get at the brushes, you have to split the motor, so you’ll need to be confident of being able to disassemble/reassemble a modern electric motor with buggering it up (which would probably cost the thick end of GB£130). I used a hoover brush attachment to remove the carbon dust, while carefully avoiding sucking up any vital components.
A very messy process, as the carbon dust is very sticky, and wants to get everywhere, a bit like photocopier toner.
Then removed the brush cartridges, dismantle (watching out for the fiddly little spade retaining “mechanism”), clean, insert new ones, reassemble motor, refit motor (tricky as the rear rubber bushes meant clamping on one side to get the seating position right back where it was before – can you grease these?).
All in all, not rocket science, but these days I’ve better things to do with two hours – that’s why, assuming I have a few quid spare, I’ll be calling a good professional next time something needs doing.Re: Bosch WFR2860GB / 01 FD 8105 7 00144 – Replacing Brushe
Thanks for that Greg:)
Silence when moving drum by hand, but noticed the same faintly metallic tinkling noise on spin – but that might be a normal noise.
Is the motor a big job to remove and refit?
Removal of anything is usually easy enough, it’s refitting that is often the problem (in my humble opinion) – is this belt going to be a sod to get back on?
Anything I should note about retensioning/refitting of the drivebelt?Re: Bosch KGU34640GB Fridge/Freezer – worth repairing?
Hi again,
Everything still seems to be running well. If anyone wants the original control board to refurbish etc., send me a PM and I’ll post it.
Regs, Adrian
Re: Bosch KGU34640GB Fridge/Freezer – worth repairing?
Hi Gegsy,
Too late, I’ve already ordered a couple of supercheap domestics off of eBay. They seemed ok – made by ETI Limited who make industrial and catering thermometers. ETI looked like they were a pukka outfit, from the looks of the website info anyhow…: http://www.etiltd.co.uk/company_information.htm
regs, Adrian
