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August 12, 2013 at 10:46 am in reply to: PCB for Hygena/Diplomat APM6852 integrated fridge/freezer #399326
BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: PCB for Hygena/Diplomat APM6852 integrated fridge/freeze
Thanks for the tip. Bryan.
BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: Diplomat APM6852 fridge compartment not cooling
SAMURI wrote:It will be low on refrigerant or the compressor not pumping correctly.
Check the wet wall of the fridge to see if it has movement as sometimes you can get an internal leak on this model and it blows the liner.
If there is movement then it would not be repairable.
Bob
Samuri,
Thanks for the feedback. A couple of follow-on questions if you don’t mind:
1) I’m guessing that the “low on refrigerant” problem would be relatively easy for a specialist to rectify, am I correct?
2) Can a specialist usually rectify a compressor that is not pumping correctly?
3) The “wet wall movement” test will have to wait a while, as I am now working away from home and not able to get access to the fridge, but I’ll investigate on my return.
April 7, 2008 at 11:22 pm in reply to: Price/Availability: Element for “Cookers Appliances&quo #198878BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: Price/Availability: Element for “Cookers Appliances
About a year ago, I put one in, and it didn’t last more than a couple/three months – I can’t recall exactly. So, I got the oven out of the carcass/housing, and had the fan motor out. There was a bit of residue/build-up of muck, but essentially the motor was running freely. Equally, the fan was a bit mucky, but not much. So I concluded that a reasonable amount of circulation must be taking place. So I really don’t know what to think. I guess one supplier of elements for these things is as good as any other?
The alternative is to replace the oven, of course – not as pleasant a prospect as paying out for a couple of elements and replacing once a year.
Open to suggestions, though!
Thanks.
Bryan
kwatt wrote:Jeez, there’s a blast from the past!
That should be the one you need.
Have you checked the obvious stuff like the fan motor is okay as it’s odd for them to go that quick? Not unheard of, just unusual.
HTH
K.
April 7, 2008 at 11:06 pm in reply to: Price/Availability: Element for “Cookers Appliances&quo #198876BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: Price/Availability: Element for “Cookers Appliances
Well, the time has come again it seems… looks like it’s going to be an annual ritual replacing the element on this oven.
Could you quote me a price for 2 more of the item described below in my original posting, please?
BryanClarke124 wrote:You supplied us with a replacement for this not much over a year ago, but that has gone bang too. I’d like to buy a couple this time, and will keep one as a spare – we don’t seem to get much more than 12 months life out of them. We have a “Cookers Appliances” Model 05-600306/2 Typ B13, marked “SNr 014810266 O846CK161 4.565kW Max”. The heating element for the main oven has failed (again). The identification on your replacement reads “4045 538 R IRCA 2000w RL6”. [Just found the original posting – http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … highlight= Your part number then was 76X3719]
Can you provide prices for the above, please?
Many thanks,
Bryan R. Clarke
BryanClarke124
ParticipantSimon,
Hi, and thank you for the quick response – I’m inclined to say “Yes – the same clicks are heard”. Whilst having breakfast this morning, I’m pretty certain I heard this. And in my head, I likened it to something being stuck – almost as if the current was being switched off because some rotating part was stuck.
How else would you diagnose a seized compressor? And as importantly, how would one go about un-seizing a seized compressor?
Incidentally, I located another item of literature with “Diplomat APM 6842” – does this point to manufacturer/model?
BryanClarke124
ParticipantSimon,
Hi, and thank you for the quick response – I’m inclined to say “Yes – the same clicks are heard”. Whilst having breakfast this morning, I’m pretty certain I heard this. And in my head, I likened it to something being stuck – almost as if the current was being switched off because some rotating part was stuck.
How else would you diagnose a seized compressor? And as importantly, how would one go about un-seizing a seized compressor?
Incidentally, I located another item of literature with “Diplomat APM 6842” – does this point to manufacturer/model?
BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: Hoover Softwave 1100 model WS115 washer/drier
Penguin,
Many thanks for the reply.
We have used the drier programme very, very rarely during the machine’s life. However, I had checked the cleanliness of every component, and found very little dirt to remove, and almost certainly not sufficient dust, fluff etc to create a circulation problem. However… (and forgive my lack of understanding of how the drier system works)… between the impeller and the rear of the machine, there is a duct which leads downwards to a flexible hose (formed into a U-bend), which then rises to an outlet (about 1 1/4″ diameter), which is open to the atmosphere. I emptied about a beaker full of water from the U-bend. Would this consititute a ‘blockage’, or is the water supposed to be there? (!)
Can you point me in the direction of a technical document which explains at any useful level of detail how machines of this type work?
Is my assumption correct that if a circuit test revealed no continuity through the “Orient DM150H” component I mentioned, the component has failed? (Accepting that I need to find the cause, not the symptom, I don’t want to fork out £13 if the component is currently working as-designed!)
Thanks for anything you can offer.
Bryan
BryanClarke124
ParticipantRe: 2 Elements Required
Dave,
Thank you again for your help and advice.
Bryan
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