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I can only think that almost 3 days of 70V going into it has caused some damage. Or maybe voltage spikes have harmed the electronics?
Here are some temperature logs I took, first one is the lowest shelf of the fridge compartment. Second is the middle freezer drawer. Each is about 3 weeks of logging and shows what I think seem odd behaviours?:
Found the problem. The valve system that controls water flow to the different spray arms in the machine was not moving due to an open circuit motor that Beko call “6 way valve synchronous motor”.
The valve disc that rotates via the above-named motor with a couple of holes in it which lets water pass from the pump to the spray arms had stopped in a closed position with one hole just slightly over a port to a spray arm, massively impeding flow.
The spray arms now have powerful jets of water coming from them.
It’s surprising Beko didn’t program an error code for failure of the valve disc to rotate, since there is an encoder wheel that turns in sync with it, operating a microswitch, which tells the machine the position of the valve disc. No microswitch on/off cycles could have been programmed to flag an error…
electrofix wrote:the pump will be a 3 phase unit driven by the board. chances are you can measure the motor to check the 3 coils are intact. if yes the chances are you only have a 2 phase output from the board
Dave
It is indeed 3-phase, and that is created by the PCB within the pump itself – I have the old pump apart. The mainboard doesn’t provide a 3-phase supply to the pump, though.
The mainboard provides a 240v live and neutral feed, a 5V DC feed, and 2 signal lines which come directly from the Atmega processor on the mainboard. Presumably the 2 signal lines are for speed control?
Re: Indesit UIAA12 freezer not working after being on side
Well, I’ve repaired it myself.
I don’t know how being on its side could have caused the fault and perhaps was a coincidence.
I removed the starter pack from the compressor and found it’s an electronic type with a little PCB inside. Ideal as I started in electronics. Replaced it with a thermal disc type and the compressor came on and freezer started cooling.
Examined the PCB which uses a triac to switch voltage on and off to the start winding. No visual clues, so tested all the surface-mount components in-situ and removed the triac to test.
The culprit was a surface-mount 220 ohm resistor which had become open-circuit. Replaced it and tested the starter pack at work with light bulbs as dummy loads and watched as the “start” light bulb came on for a couple of seconds then went out, while the “motor” lightbulb stayed on throughout.
Just fitted it to the freezer after work, and it’s working perfectly.
Incidentally, could only find the starter on Amazon UK, and it was £154. Indesit only want £91 for the entire compressor…
Result.
Re: Hotpoint WMUD9427P motor not turning
Little update:
removed PCB and checked it more thoroughly after very quick look the other night. One of the 6 transistors under the large heatsink is cracked and open-circuit. The related high voltage driver IC is reading differently to the other two which drive the other two pairs of MOSFETs, I’ll replaced that too (it’s on eBay from china for just a few pounds, although aliexpress would probably do them too if anyone ever needs hard to find parts).
First though, I need to remove the heatsink to find out what transistor I need to source and despite the family trade and my background being electronics repair, I don’t have a high enough wattage soldering iron for such a big heatsink so am awaiting delivery of a 100W one.
I’ll then check nothing else is wrong that could have caused failure of the transistor. In my experience MOSFETs used in similar applications fail simply from the hard life they have at high current and voltage, although the driver may have caused its failure.
I’ll update this when I know more, might help someone else and if a few quids worth of components can affect a repair rather than over £100 for a new board, it’s a winner.
Re: Ariston LSE615 or Indesit AF350X part location
Thanks, I’ll pass all that on.
Out of interest, if it must be replaced with a new machine, what makes are considered to be ones to go with these days?
Re: Indesit WIDL 102 door lock light
Just in case it helps, I have the same machine and have had both symptoms you describe. The issue with the top vertical LED coming on, but the door lock light remaining unlit and the click missing happens when I don’t close the door with a sharp bang. I presume it’s a faulty switch there or a very sensitive one that needs the door fully locked into place.
With the flashing lights, that worried me as I thought main PCB failure, but it turned out to be softener that had run behind the front facia and onto the PCB with the control button microswitches on it. I presume it was causing some voltage signals to be sent simultaneously and erratically to the main PCB and was confusing it.
A thorough clean with isopropyl alcohol, including removing the dials and cleaning the contact squares and wipers beneath, restored normal operation, as well as finally sorting out the start cycle button, which usually required pressing hard and fiddling with to get the machine going – it just needs a light press now.
Re: Bluesky BLF1011SP – drum stuck on fast spin
Thanks for all of the replies. I did check the tacho was connected – I lifted off the plastic cage that clips onto the motor body, studied the ring and put it back together again carefully. However, didn’t do a continuity check on the wiring, which I must do.
Out of interest, would it also cause the drum to fast-spin backwards like I described above, and an eventual ‘lock-out’ with the machine, and not doing the things it should when on a particular setting?
Another thing I noticed is that on the PCB there is a large, long resistor raised well above board level, and it’s been getting hot as can be seen by discolouration to the adjacent timer plastic. There is no visible value on it but was reading something like 50K I think. It gets too hot to touch when the machine is on.
My concern was that the forwards then backwards spin, coupled with the locking out and not doing as it should on the settings might have meant that the IC is faulty (NEC 452178EUV4)…
Re: Bluesky BLF1011SP – drum stuck on fast spin
Thanks for the reply. Is the tacho a small, circular plastic ring that has two wires coming from it? Looks like a ferrite core?
Incidentally, I forgot to mention that the drum will occasionally do a reverse fast spin after the forward fast spin, then the machine refuses to respond to anything.
Connected it back up today (fault started weeks ago and usnig spare washer now) and found it wouldn’t take water in, it just seems obsessed with going into a fast spin the moment it’s switched on, that lasts for 10 seconds or so, then unresponsive for a while.
SOLVED: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
Finally fixed the machine. What a palaver. The water leaking from the hole in the drum, where the screw had fallen out, had been splashing onto the main control board. The water had caused arcing from the mains input neutral terminal to a copper track on the PCB which passed in front of it. The track it had arced to (and made quite a deep black crater, actually going under the copper track) turned out to be the neutral return for the drain pump, which is why the pump was always on, as the sooty deposits were only reading around 2Kohm from track to terminal. So, had to cut the track completely out around the terminal (peeled back the copper) and solder an insulated wire across the gap. So, two problems solved – leak and arcing.
Put it all back together thinking happy days were on their way only to find the machine acting bizarrely. If I put it on a cycle, it let some water in the drum then did nothing, all lights flashed on the front as though cancelling a running program by holding the start button in, and that was it. Tried it again but on spin cycle and this time the drum actually moved around a bit before same thing happened.
Problem was this: when I put the machine on its side, I neglected to remove the drawer which still contained softener. It ran down the front of the machine, got behind the dials and on to the board behind the buttons and dials. It had also got all over the PCB connector on the side, so effectively it was creating current-carrying paths all over the place and most importantly on the connector itself. Result was a machine thinking it was getting commands that weren’t actually being requested by me. Got confused, in a word.
Hours later after stripping down the front cover, cleaning PCB thoroughly with alcohol, cleaning dials and switches thoroughly, drying it out thoroughly, putting the sodding lot back together again, and I now have a working machine.
So, the morals: If you see your machine is leaking, sort it out sooner rather than later instead of hoping it’s just a leaky roof, spilt water, hallucination, etc., before main board gets wet, arcing occurs and so on. If you’re going to put machine on its side, remove drawer first.
Least it’s done now. Yay. 😀
Re: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
If unplugged for a while, the pump doesn’t run immediately, only after a cycle is selected. Then, if I turn the machine off with the on/off button, the pump continues to run even long after drum is empty.
I have the mainboard out which was damp. I’m going to trace the wiring through and see if I can find where the pump connections go on the board.
What/where is EMW?
Re: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
The retaining thing turned out to be a round metal post that the middle of element slides around. Unfortunately it’d fallen out into the cavity around inner drum, but a device from Wilkinson’s recently bought for me (thankfully) of a telescopic magnet allowed me to get it out through heater element hole. Using same magnet managed to align it in front of screw hole and get screw back in and nice and tight. Trouble is getting element back in now with resistance of metal post plus expanded rubber collar that is now too fat at end to fit in. Going to take some perseverance.
Next job is finding out why drain pump emptying drum as it’s filling.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
Hi and thanks for the reply.
Got the washer on its side and saw that you’re spot-on about a bolt missing from there, I could see the marks from where it’d been. Checked where the washer had been stood and there it was on the floor. Thanks for that, I doubt I’d have ever realised and the screw would’ve been swept up. Looking with a torch makes it seem the screw might not reach the bracket now, but I’ll try.
I wondered about water on the pump, but it’s over to the side enough to not be near the water coming out, and any leakage to earth would break the RCD socket I fitted for it. I think the leak has been going on for a while as I had noticed water on the floor weeks ago when machine was working and decided it was the leaky roof because I didn’t want it to be the washer. What I’m dreading is that the leak is just a separate issue and the pump is constantly on because of the PCB having a fault. Can’t afford new PCB or washer.
Re: blomberg wash machine door locked shut
Hi, I can’t help with releasing the door catch, not my area (electrics and electronics is) but I did want to warn against connecting any switch outputs to earth, you effectively shorted the mains to earth which is why your MCB popped in the house. It’s a major hazard because although the MCB should trip off within a safe time (going by UK standards) for that short period before it trips, everything earthed in the entire house has voltage potential on it, so if you or anyone else is touching any earthed metal and happens to offer a parrellel lowish resistance path to earth, there’s a danger of shock. Sorry can’t help with reason for post…
Re: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
Right, doesn’t seem to be the pressure switch, that’s working, had it out and tested it. What I have now realised is that even when the off button is pressed and all lights go out, the machine’s drain pump is still pumping. If left unplugged a while and reconnected, everything’s silent, until a wash cycle is started then the drain pump starts up and stays on. When the machine’s put on a cycle, the pump immediately empties the drum as it’s filling.
Also just discovered it’s leaking water (a stream of it, not a drip) from bottom of drum when filling with water. The metal drum outer has a hole built into it to the left of drum near drain pump, and the water’s coming from this hole.
Come across this fault before of drain pump constantly on?
