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Re: Indesit WIDL102 fault code help please
Thanks a lot for giving me that info, it’s appreciated, saves me a lot of time!
I’ll see if I can find the pressure switch and then test it. I’ll post whatever I find.
Thanks again.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 control board connections help
Black wires go to dryer fan motor. J14 is the correct position for the connector. J15 puts 240V on the motor, but with no neutral return path when on drying function – be warned, heater element is on though, so gets very hot very fast without fan spinning!
Had problem lately when trying to start a cycle. The lights all go out and machine is essentially dead lest you unplug it a while and then it comes to life once more. Trying to start the cycle again often repeated this scenario. Just found that holding the cycle on/off button in for quite some time brings it back with a reset. Also found that slamming door very hard is the solution to getting the cycle to work instead of making machine go dead.
Dodgy microswitch in door lock mechanism?
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
Yep, it’s definitely worth a go, fingers crossed. I’m hoping it’s just that because the one in there reads like no NTC thermistor I’ve ever encountered.
Generally they read 6 – 12K or so at room temperature and increase from there. To read getting on for 650K is odd, it means with temperature increase it’s going to be approaching one megohm which is a hell of a resistance. Also the fact it’s giving different readings depending on meter lead polarity is strange too, because it means putting the connectors on the other way round is going to give a very different resistance to the main board, and since the leads aren’t marked, it’s easily done. Normally it shouldn’t matter which way leads go because readings are identical either way through the thermistor.
Also, I tested it using ice and off-the-boil water, and the readings stayed static, although both readings kept climbing while the meter was connected regardless of temperature as though the meter was charging the device – something I’ve only ever encountered when testing a component that has a capacitor in parallel.
Should the board be faulty, I’ll check it over and see if it’s reparable.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
Ordered the heater element from the online shop after it was helpfully added to the shop contents. Have fitted it and it works, but last night it boiled like hell, filled the whole place with steam and left water leaking our of the machine’s case.
Seems I was right to suspect the thermistor was buggered, because it’s still just staying on wash cycle permanently as well as boiling. I knew an NTC thermistor shouldn’t read in the hundreds of kilohms, but thought maybe it wasn’t a straight thermistor but had other components built-in. Obviously not. Must have been damaged when the element overheated with the lack of water when it was siphoning.
A note to others: as I have tried to explain to someone at work going through corgi training for gas appliances (for when he’s fixing combi boilers), NTCs can either fail completely and go open-circuit – which is easy for a detection circuit to detect and flash a fault code – or they can just go high in resistance making the equipment think that the temperature the sensor’s detecting is low, or they can work normally upto a certain temperature at which point they go open-circuit, which will fool every boiler I’ve come across into not detecting a fault and therefore not showing a fault code.
So don’t always trust fault codes will save you like muggins here did. Got to hope no damage was done now, although I reckon I got away with it.
Thanks for everyone’s help. When the thermistor arrives (ordered from here today) I’ve no doubt all will work well.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
I’ve checked and the heater element is open-circuit. Must be as Penguin said, that when it was syphoning, the element was left exposed in air and cooked itself. I’ll price a new one on this website.
There is a white disc component in a rubber bung just above the heater element – I gather this is the NTC thermistor? The thing is, it’s not measuring like a standard thermistor. With the test probes one way around on the pins, it reads 600KOhm, if I swap the leads over, it reads 100KOhm, but each time the reading goes up and up on both readings, as though there’s a capacitor built in. Any idea on this?
I want to make sure I order all the parts I’m going to need in one go, but a thermistor behaving like that and not obviously changing resistance when warmed and cooled, just going up in resistance as though being charged by my meter, then dropping when the meter’s disconnected, is very odd.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
Ah, I see. Thanks for that. Does look like the heater isn’t working, water’s always cold. Do you think that the heater not working would cause it to be stuck on wash cycle forever? We’ve tried more loads (haven’t tried a cold wash yet, though) and it just stays on wash cycle indefinitely. I’m wondering if it’s waiting for the water temperature to get to the right level, and since that’s not happening, it just carries on tumbling the clothes about while it waits…and waits…and waits.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
I’ll try that. Don’t these elements have closely coupled thermostats with thermal cut-outs attached?
There are only two possible combinations of flashing LEDs because it was three in a row, I just couldn’t recall if it was the left-hand three of the four LEDs, or the right-hand three.
So, it’s either 1,2,3 flashing, or 2,3,4. And whichever of those two combinations it was, the red LED above the padlock symbol was flickering very fast. Even if bth combinations of flashing LEDs actually exists and points to an error, only one will likely make sense in the context of the perceived symptoms.
**Edit**
After 4 hours and still being on the wash cycle, I’ve had to turn the machine off, as I like some electricity left in the meter. Any known cause of this?!
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
Thanks for reply as well iadom, found hose was really far into pipe and have lifted it above center line of machine, however, I’m sure it’s been like that a while, so not sure why it started syphoning now.
Anyway, I’m still unsure if the machine’s happy. After the syphoning problem earlier, I reset it and started the wash cycle afresh set to white cotton cycle at 90 degrees. It’s been going for over 2 and a half hours now still on the wash cycle, and there’s no warmth perceptible at all from the door front, even though there normally is despite the double layer constuction simply because 90 degrees is so hot it spreads eventually.
Is there any way I can decipher the flashing LEDs and discover what it thought was wrong initially, before I noticed the syphon problem after resetting the machine following the error flashes?
I know it’s basic physics and I know the level of the end of the hose is important; I actually explained it in my post:
The effect of having the end of the flexible hose pushed too far into the solid drain pipe is that if it goes below the machine’s waterline, a syphon situation can occur if fresh water starts going in before waste water has finished flowing out the drain hose
At no point did I say it didn’t matter. My point was that the only way the fresh water going in could be syphoned straight back out – as it was doing in my machine – is if fresh water is added before the waste water has finished flowing out (so a syphon is still in progress). I always assumed these machines finished emptying the waste water completely before starting to fill the drum with fresh water. Obviously that assumption is wrong, or such a situation with my machine could not have developed. Of course, the fact a syphon was occurring means the end of the flexible hose is lower than the waterline in the drum, so the overall diagnosis from Penguin is spot-on. I just thought something must be wrong for fresh water to be going in while waste water is still going out, but hey, if there’s no solenoid valve in place and the machine does indeed start filling before it’s finished emptying waste water and the hose is too low in the pipe, then it looks like there’s nothing functionally wrong with the machine.
I was also just saying that the end of the hose being below the waterline does not cause water added to the drum to flow in and straight back out, as long as the U-bend’s top is above the waterline, unless a syphon is already present from the waste water being pumped out.
The other thing was that it showed no error flashes when it was stuck in the filling/emptying cycle even though I left it half an hour doing that. I don’t know what preceded the error flashes the first time, as we hadn’t been near the machine for at least 8 hours after it was set to wash a load.
Re: Indesit WIDL102 washer/dryer flashing LEDs
Penguin45 wrote:if it’s too far down, the water runs in, the water runs out. I imagine your code represents no fill in the time allowed.
Thanks for your reply. Surely, as long as the top of the U-bend is above the machine’s waterline, water won’t be able to run in and straight back out, regardless of how far the end of the hose is pushed into the solid drain pipe? The solid drain pipe behind my machine has its end coming way above the waterline, so the bend has to be way above also, of course. The effect of having the end of the flexible hose pushed too far into the solid drain pipe is that if it goes below the machine’s waterline, a syphon situation can occur if fresh water starts going in before waste water has finished flowing out the drain hose, and the syphon will continue ad infinitum, which is what I had happening.
So, is it normal that it starts putting fresh water in before waste water has finished flowing out the drain hose? Because that’s the only way a syphon can occur that pulls the fresh water straight out, triggering a cycle of the machine continuously refilling as the pressure sensor detects a lack of water in the drum.
Seems odd that all of a sudden it’d start syphoning water out when none of the pipework or hose has been touched, and that after restarting it following the fault flashes I left it for a very long time doing the cycle of filling/emptying and yet no faults came up.
Re: Ariston LSE615 – Fault code: two LEDs blinking
Thanks for the replies. I’m sorry, I should have said that it’s a model purchased in Spain.
If it helps by giving an idea of the type of machine, as there’s perhaps a UK equivalent model, I can say that it’s around 4 years old. Starting from the left side of the top panel, it has on/off button, half-load button, 4 LEDs and then a rotary dial for selecting between roughly 7 programs.
Re: Hoover WDM 120 Motor / Armiture struggles to turn ????
Ah well, just trying to help, sorry for confusing the issue.
Re: Hoover WDM 120 Motor / Armiture struggles to turn ????
My area of expertise is brown goods electronic repair, but I have had a washing machine here suffer the same problem in the past. It was due to the starting capacitor which is usually mounted on the inside of the washing machine case and is connected to the motor inputs. In conjunction with a starter winding in the motor, it creates a resonant circuit producing a phase-shift between starter winding voltage and mains voltage entering the main windings in the motor, producing a much larger starting torque which is required when a drum is full of heavy wet clothes, while giving the benefit of a motor which can spin at high speed. It’s often referred to as the “start-up and running capacitor”.
The description of the drum moving side to side slightly is identical to the symptom with my washer. The lack of torque being due to the capacitor having failed (most likely low in value or open-circuit) and therefore the out-of-phase extra kick not being provided by a resonant circuit dependent upon starter-winding impedance and capacitance (provided by start-up cap).
Buy yourself a new capacitor and I reckon all will be well. Hopefully! 🙂
