Chris Blatch

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Currys essentials CUL55W12 fridge #448205
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Currys essentials CUL55W12 fridge

    Check the starter unit and its connections.

    in reply to: Running a fridgecompresor w/o gas in #425263
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Running a fridgecompresor w/o gas in

    Thanks for the replies.

    Currently we repair only R600a, so (currently) no requirement for f Gas.

    We use the Vulkan/Lokring kits and as part of the Vac down procedure it states, to switch on the fridge compressor, obviously whist vac-ing down, there will be no gas in the system and some guys have been saying that this may damage the fridge compressor, hence my question.

    in reply to: Sandstrom SFF4DS11 #424644
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Sandstrom SFF4DS11

    I know they are a dual evaporator, so there is a diverter valve, allowing vacation mode etc.

    in reply to: Neff double oven #418120
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Neff double oven

    E005 equals-Communication failure/error between the control module and the display module.

    Check the cables or it can be the control module itself

    in reply to: Neff Cooker B45E42N0GB/35 #424638
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Neff Cooker B45E42N0GB/35

    E005 equals-Communication failure/error between the control module and the display module.

    Check the cables or it can be the control module itself.

    in reply to: Electric ovens leaking!!!! #424185
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Electric ovens leaking!!!!

    Can be caused by not pre heating the oven prior to putting in the food and also a blocked exhaust vent, very common on some FSE Bekos

    in reply to: Bosch f/freezer #424209
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Bosch f/freezer

    I get that, but if the fridge NTC is shorted the PCB will start to run in cyclic mode, effects being either too cold or too warm in fridge room?

    in reply to: Belling DB900e Mains Block #424336
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Belling DB900e Mains Block

    They are fairly generic, as long as it can take the total load of the appliance and as long as it fits safely, with no chance of coming away and has the correct number of terminals on the rear, it should be fine.

    As it’s a full electric range, the max load will be quite high.

    Any equivalent GDHA (Belling/Stoves) terminal block will suffice.

    If you can post a pic of the rear, I’ll have a look at some of my stock as I have lots of spare ones.

    in reply to: Bosch f/freezer #424207
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Bosch f/freezer

    Simon46 wrote:Right fridge evap sensor has got moisture in it. One butt crimp connector to short out evap sensor will make fridge freezer run perfectly. Search model no on ukw.
    Regards Simon

    Simon,

    Will that cause temp issues in the freezer? As there will be no temp sensing? (BTW,it’s a genuine question, not a statement!)
    Cheers mate.

    in reply to: Ikea Renlig DWT160 Underfilling #423375
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Ikea Renlig DWT160 Underfilling

    These have 2 fill stages, static (1st stage) normally around a min and a half, then the wash pump starts to run, then it will dynamic fill (2nd stage) the 2nd stage is determined by the RPM of the wash pump.
    The sump also has 4 ball valves which prevents back flow and loss of water during wash cycle.

    Check hoses to pressure switches and ensure that all in around the sump for blockages.

    good luck!

    in reply to: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling #424045
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling

    Sorry mate, I don’t go North of the gap!!

    in reply to: Bosch f/freezer #424204
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Bosch f/freezer

    Hi Paul,

    Have you tried the fast freeze button, this should override the temp sensor components on the PCB (for a set period)if this causes the freezer to start to freeze, then the PCB or sensors could be at fault.

    Also, if you know how,just bypass the PCB and supply the common terminal of the compressor with a live feed, if the freezer starts to frost over , then you can assume the PCB or NTC sensors are at fault. If not, then it will be a system fault.

    The PCB is obsolete and the sensors can be foamed into the case and can be impossible to replace.

    Good luck

    in reply to: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling #424043
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling

    If you know someone who can attempt a purge and regas, then not a lot.
    I would charge ‘mates rates’ of £20ish.
    If this is unsuccessful, then as Bob said, it could be a seized compressor, then I would say it would be BER.

    in reply to: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling #424040
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling

    I was going on the information supplied by Q: “I am satisfied that it was working before I transported it”

    Which would indicate a high side blockage, if the compressor is seized, surely it would have been seized before transportation?

    I agree with your theory Bob and as you know, it will be an easy diagnosis, if we had the appliance in front of us.

    If one has a regas rig, it would cost the price of a new Dryer and some gas, to prove either way.

    BTW, I have spent time in the UK Samsung returns warehouse in MK and seen some of the so called write offs sent in under warranty and seen them resolved.

    Good luck with it Q.

    in reply to: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling #424038
    Chris Blatch
    Participant

    Re: Samsung RL41WGTB, not cooling

    Not true, sorry. The pressure is too high on the output side (high side) and the compressor will stall, overheat and cause the klixon to operate, which is what you may be hearing.
    Once the pressure has been released, the compressor should operate normally.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)