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Re: New Hob Advice
DD, yep cheers for that. Got there on my own and have fitted 4mm H07BN4-F, 3-core which has high operating temp, oil/grease resistance etc. I’ve even had proper “sparks” just saying “I always use 6mm T&E!”. I like to go a bit deeper as to the “why” of everything!
I do come at this with some knowledge – I hold C&G 2382 (the “regs” 17th Edition), C&G 2330 Level 3 and an EAL Part P Cert. I was just a bit surprised / concerned over the Electra instructions. It IS if you apply (rely on?) diversity to use the 2.5mm cable. Works on the basis that you are unlikely to achieve full load on a cooking appliance as in not all elements on at the same time and even if they are you have stats kicking in and out. As I say a bit of a pain fitting the 4mm flex but got there in the end. I’ve even written to Electra in Israel – no answer yet! Have contacted them before and the reply came back in HEBREW and I had to use Google translate.
(What I get for buying a cheapo hob I guess!)
Re: New Hob Advice
DrDill, what cable are you sayng won’t be man enough, the 2.5mm or the 4mm?
As I’ve said I’ve doubts about what the Electra installation manual suggests i.e. using 2.5mm UNLESS diversity is applied.
Re: New Hob Advice
The hob instructions say to wire using 3×2.5mm cable but the stuff I got from Wickes (H05 heat resistant) says its good for 25A. So………7.3kW at 230V is 32A. I’ve wired the hob then in 4mm H07 heat resistant but it was a B**CH to get in. Just wondering what others do i.e. do people use 2.5mm and just take into account diversity? With diversity then taking the first 10A then 30{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the full load I get circa 20A so I could use the 2.5mm. Thanks
Re: WMD960 – F01 etc
Cheers for that. Assume by motor connections you mean at the pcb, at the motor and on that white connector to the bottom left of the motor.
The pcb, easily accessible? Could I be looking at an obvious blown capacitor maybe? Even a dud triac that I could swap out. Is is surface mount stuff on the board or can you “see it”?
Thanks
Re: New Hob Advice
Well I picked up the Electra induction hob tonight from Comet. One of the guys there reckons they’ve had none back and could only guess that the price reduction was to push the less well known name. One interesting thing, it’s stamped “MADE IN TURKEY”. So much for me thinking Israel – guess they just get them made there. It looks good tbh, nicely made etc. Slight downside is it needs a 32A breaker for the 7.3kW rating and my cu has only old Crabtree 30A breakers. Probably OK but to be belt and braces etc…………..
Re: New Hob Advice
Was thinking they (the Israelis) are pretty savvy and aren’t likely to put up with cr@p in their domestic side – they haven’t got the time as in bigger issues to worry about! Thinking Galil, Uzi, their defence industry is second to none (IMI etc) – even exporting tech back to the Yanks. EVERYONE does military service and I imaging that discipline filters into their general workforce and attitude. Going to dive into Comet and have a look see myself!
UPDATE: Just ordered one online. Was on sale in Comet for £199.00 down from £349.99. I then found a discount code HOB15 on a site called “PrudentPanda” (I’ve never heard of it until 5 minutes ago……just enter the code in the Comet checkout) this brought it down to £169.99. As the missus just said, she doesn’t use a hob that much anyway. Collecting in store on Sunday!
Re: New Hob Advice
Whirlpool induction hob maybe? Just found this:
http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/1256433 … hob-b.html
Seems cheap for an induction hob. I see on here that Whirlpool spares are maybe a tad expensive? Not sure what if anything is replaceable in an induction hob………….
Re: New Hob Advice
TBH, I’ve just found this which I quite like the look of:
http://www.appliancesonline.co.uk/produ … 14990.aspx
I’m assuming that the AEG owned by Electrolux is a DIFFERENT AEG to the one who makes the drills….that’s owned by some far east mob called TTI (Tectronic Industries I think). Seems like different companies using the AEG name for different things.
Re: New Hob Advice
I saw somewhere today that AEG and Zanussi are all names pedalled by the Electrolux group………..and AEG don’t seem to be the same quality German brand they used to be. I know that the AIG drills are now from a Chinese lot TTI and they are naff IMO (bought one, took it back and got a Makita).
Re: Hotpoint WMD960 – F05 Fault
I have the machine in the garden on a step so was able to lay the drain hose flat. It drained VERY quickly with little sign of debris making me wonder if it is a blockage. So white clip off holding the drain hose on to the pump, white clip off holding the black sump hose to the pump and then removed the big spring clip on to release the sump hose. No real debris anywhere so far…..interesting to see inside what I guess is the coin trap, a sort of golf ball sized float/ball – one way valve is it? I’ll look closely at the pump next. Thanks.
UPDATE: Sticking a finger into the pump and the impeller would only rotate a few mm either way. Took it out and found a piece of 2″ bra wire wedged in there. Long nose pliers did the trick. Just putting it back together now. The price I suppose for the wife having great knockers! 😀 Pictures to follow…………..of the wire that is.
Seriously though, many thanks for your assistance.
Re: Hotpoint WMD960 – F05 Fault
Yep, took the whole thing out into the garden on a sack trolley. As you said red plastic blank at the front. Back off, (2 screws) and the pump sits down on the bottom right. Will gently prise the serrated hose clips off and work back from the outlet hose. By “sump hose” do you mean the short black pipe into the pump or the grey long outlet hose? Cheers.
Re: Bosch SGS3042GB/03 – timer sticking
Orange Peel, could be expensive buying those beers as my preferred tipple is a New Zealand beer called Speights Gold Medal! Seriously though, glad it all worked out for you. Good feeling when it all works out!
Re: Bosch SGS3042GB Problem
Clicon, please make sure your information is accurate in the public forum. That might be the correct part for your machine but it is not the listed part for the OPs (original posters) dishwasher. Erm…..yes I think you’ll find it is. The OP’s model is a SGS3042GB/03 just like mine and the link takes you to the instantaneous water heater for that model. Furthermore the part you quoted him 264512 only fits SGS3042GB/01. Please, correct me if I’m wrong.You may very well find that the element is the same inside but there are other parts fitted to the whole unit that will not be. these may then cause danger and/or expensive and irrepairable damage to the electronics. As mentioned previously, they are supplied as a “whole unit” for a reason. by unclipping them and refitting the element not only do you run the risk of a leak, you may as well fit the new ntc and diverter motor *if fitted* as the diverter motors have been known to fail and take out the electronics.
Please also remember just because you have solved your problem sucessfully, it does not always mean it is the only solution. £70 for an element is a lot of money to spend if its not actually faulty, or if its damaged the electronics too. hence my advice to get it checked out first. its very likely it is the element but speaking as an engineer i wouldnt order one in just on hte hunch it had failed.
moreton it would help if you have a friend who is an electrician to do an insulation test on the element in return for a couple of beers, and as previously stated, if you feel confident enough, visually check the pcb for damage too, before ordering parts.
Re: Bosch SGS3042GB Problem
I got just the element. Fitted it and all working like new – no leaks either. It was a bit of fiddly holding all 4 plastic clips off that hold the element in but I’d do it again no problem. UK Whitegoods do the “whole unit” here:
