daveey

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 29 total)
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  • in reply to: Heat pump drier recommendations #484885
    daveey
    Participant

    Hi thanks for the replies. The Samsung warranty is five years parts and labour just after an inkling if the AEG is likely to be a better product overall and outshine any issues that may surface with the Samsungs past year 5 .

    in summary given the prices and warranty cover which would you buy?

    samsung series 5 DV80TA020TH/EU with 5 year warranty £405 A++ rated

    samsung series 5+ DV90T5240AN/S1 with 5 year warranty £450 after cashback A+++ rated

    AEG T7DBK840N at £500 with 2 years warranty A++ rated.

    in reply to: Heat pump drier recommendations #484882
    daveey
    Participant

    Thanks for the reply, if I could ask for some added inputs as usually I wouldn’t hesitate to order AEG/ NEFF but the 5 year warranty on new technology of heat pump dryer is attractive

    i have three options

    samsung series 5 DV80TA020TH/EU with 5 year warranty £405 A++ rated

    samsung series 5+ DV90T5240AN/S1 with 5 year warranty £450 after cashback A+++ rated

    AEG T7DBK840N at £500 with 2 years warranty A++ rated.

    in reply to: Samsung Rsh7znrs Inverter #472422
    daveey
    Participant

    So I got the circuit for main board and the 5v and switched transistor ground is correctly sending the start compressor voltage to the invertor board. I can get the output from main board to toggle if I I enter diagnostics and enter FF and DF to force compressor on and off. The compressor measured at 10ohms between all three phases when measured from the invertor connector and the overload thermal switch is closed. Trying to measure voltage output across the compressor wires at the invertor end of the cable has zero DC volts. I haven’t tried to measure voltage out of the inverter board without the compressor plugged in as concerned the board could be damaged with no load attached. It’s definitely a weird one with the signal being received at the invertor and the compressor measuring out at 10ohms per winding. Could be an overload protection built in to the output device on the invertor if the compressor is kaput. Any thoughts from anyone appreciated. The Samsung labour cost is £99 I hear if it is a compressor fault it’s covered by 10year warranty so could be an option but want to be sure it’s compressor beforre I open myself to their astronomical charge.

    in reply to: Samsung Rsh7znrs Inverter #472420
    daveey
    Participant

    here i go with the update…so i gave up with the soldering iron, i actually purchased a brand new invertor PCB from a company which is identical to my unit, however this displays a single flash code error on the invertor topside LED, my old invertor board has 5 flash code error but not sure what the original board flash code was when this all started before i started changing IC’s . So now thinking is this a compressor fault, or mainboard at a push. The compressor coils measure 10 ohms. i know samsung want £99 labour and parts on top but currently the cabinet is 9 years old so the compressor is covered under parts warranty if that is the fault….. its a gamble…. what i did was speak to a british gas engineer who originally drew a blank cause he couldn’t get a PCB, his view is the compressor cannot be change due to diverter valve stopping the bleeding and that if faulty Samsung replace the fridge under warranty if the compressor fails inside 10 years….. any help, confirmation or advice appreciated. Thank you

    in reply to: Samsung Rsh7znrs Inverter #472419
    daveey
    Participant

    Dave. Thank you so much for reply. And yes that’s the one. I have removed the 27pin smart power module ic (under the silver heat sink) near the compressor outputs and just waiting for replacement to drop in the letter box before soldering in and re trying. If not will need to know the Vdd voltage of my board as the available one listed for my fridge has 6pins difference a 13.2 v output and a 5v line. May just need to use one but don’t know what voltage my board was producing.

    will keep post updated

    in reply to: Samsung Rsh7znrs will not cool or enter test mode #472273
    daveey
    Participant

    Wanted to add that the display works as normal and all button features for adjusting temps and vacation mode etc. It just doesn’t get cold and test mode with blank display is not accessible. Thanks

    in reply to: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push #452129
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push

    To be honest I thought there was only a 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} chance of fixing it with the capacitor. I was chuffed at going in thru the fan hole it was so easy. A guy at a local repair shop told me how to do it that way saved hours and thanks for your help in motivating me to have a go anyway

    in reply to: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push #452127
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push

    I also fitted without taking the front off. I went inthru the fan housing only room for one hand but took me 10 mins to take out and 10 mins to have it back in and all screwed back together.

    in reply to: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push #452126
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push

    Well I changed the capacitor today and machine is fixed. Just goes to show that not starting with a push is still possible to fix with a capacitor change.

    in reply to: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push #452125
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push

    I could do this but wanted to try and establish from others that the push start is not always a reliable analysis and in some cases the motor is ok and it’s only the capacitor

    in reply to: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push #452123
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYC8913B tumble won’t turn after a push

    Hello Martin..Thank you for the help…As far as i can see it is in good order…. when i took the heater cover off i was able to easily turn the fan at back of the motor with one finger and this resulted in the drum turning quite easily.

    in reply to: which machine #398169
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: which machine

    Considering this, best both world 1400 spin and 8kg with IQ motor. any views please

    Siemens WM14S496GB


    http://m.johnlewis.com/mt/www.johnlewis … p231253639

    in reply to: which machine #398168
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: which machine

    Thanks Martin

    Agree on the lower spin , end result is 2 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} less water content that will affect tumble dryer costs ….I played this off against 1kg extra load and less electric and water usage on the 1st machine, this is due to John Lewis having the second machine listed as A+++ but according to Siemens website it’s only A++

    So I figured more clothes to a wash, less water and power usage would be a worthy trade

    Your comments are appreciated.

    in reply to: which machine #398166
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: which machine

    Martin

    Many thanks, why is the second the best choice

    in reply to: neff earth wire 2 element versus 3 ….please help #297728
    daveey
    Participant

    Re: neff earth wire 2 element versus 3 ….please help

    ok , had to crack on and fix it, so i connected only two power wires to the element and the original earth wires with the eyelet was securely fastened to the adjacent fan mount torx screws which is ideally placed to stop the redundant earth cables from going astray.

    multimeter confirms element is earthed, also fitted some star washers to the element self tap screws for good measure

    is this ok….. should i have fitted a spade terminal after all and earthd the 3rd terminal on the element?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 29 total)