Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
electrofix wrote: you can easily test the pump… from what your saying dont think its a pump problem…
Thanks again, yeah I kinda suspected as much; the dryer had been on for ages and there really wasn’t much water around the evaporator.
B*gg*r.Oh well, thanks for taking the time to explain, much appreciated.
Cheers!electrofix wrote: if anything goes wrong with the refrigeration circuit its a dead duck far too expensive to repair
if its air flow then you need to make sure the filters and evaporator is clear. The evaporator is the fridge part that gets cold to condense the steam. its the first part behind the filter at the bottom
Dave
Thanks for replying.
I did try and clean the evaporator (I call it the condenser; the bit that cools the steam) but I can only access the front, it isn’t removable.
I think I can see where there’s an air filter but the manual doesn’t mention how to clean it.
I undid a screw that loosened the filter cover but it still doesn’t want to come away, there’s a plastic lug retainer holding it in place.
Will keep fiddling with it.
However the manual also mentions that if the evaporator icon is flashing then it needs cleaning. It isn’t flashing.So, it could be the refrigeration circuit.
Is it worth trying to take off the rear cover and trying to find and check the pipe that runs from evaporator to water tank?
(What I mean is, if I take the back off will it be straightforward to put everything back, or will lots of wires and fiddly stuff sag down?)Thanks again.
electrofix wrote:when you replacing an integrated unit with a normal machine the biggest problem is the kitchen kick strip. the integrated units are stepped to account for this while normal machines are not
DaveKickboard’s been removed as the bust machine wasn’t integrated either 🙂
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply, much appreciated.
Cheers!Hi Murv,
Thanks for the reply, much appeciated!
We decided to look at some dryers in the shops and I thought then that Grundig and Beko had many similarities…murv wrote:Ideally should follow the manufacturers guidelines.
That said, our Grundig(Beko) heatpump dryer has well less than 1cm gap at the top, back and sides. I left the side kickplates off in the dryer slot and it’s been functioning for over five years.
Heat pump dryers vent less cooling air from the cabinet than a standard condenser.
Yeah, I got the impression they ran cooler than condensers. I think, given the lack of decent alternatives I’ll have to shoehorn in the Beko.
I’ll try and move the washing machine a tad to the right (might gain a few mm but there really isn’t much free space there either).Hi Don,
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply, much appreciated.
Heh, just re-read page 8 … I remember most of those points but not the one about 1cm one clearance near the end. I’m getting senile…
Struggling to find a smaller dryer that has the capacity I want (ideally would’ve preferred something a bit bigger than 7Kg).don wrote:Page eight of the instructions state that one cm is required for ventilation of the appliance. As you mention the air vents are at the front. It just depends on how much warm air the machine emits from around the machine. I would personally say your spacing is a little tight. Problem is that if it failed during the warranty Beko may say “it’s not being used in accordance with our instructions” which may render your guarantee void.
I think you are going to struggle with the spacing that said I have seen condenser and heat pump dryers in tight spots such as yours.
Don
Hi Dave,
Thanks for replying, much apreciated!electrofix wrote:well it looks like the door comes to bits
https://www.neff-home.com/uk/supportdetail/product/R4381X1GB/04#/Tabs=section-spareparts/
but since there are no electrics in the door why not take it off and hose it down and put it in the bath and give it a good swill
as for the rest, you can take out the condensor and get your arm to the back annd remove any fluff after that it need to come out
Dave
I did have a go at picking out the gunge by hand – I was wondering if there was more where I couldn’t see…
Thanks for the exploded door picture, I’ll have a go at removing it … now, where did I put my hammer?Cheers!
Here’s an update/additional detail in response to the much appreciated advice.
The water heats up – the front door feels warm when the wash cycle is on.
No obvious sign of leaks or dampness under the machine.
Not sure if door unlocks after 5+ minutes of inactivity but I doubt it because the machine doesn’t drain so we have to run a rinse+spin or spin cycle to empty it (this always works fine).
Bottom of door seal (6 o’clock) looks fine – no significant signs of rusting, damage or wear and tear.
Other details: the cotton cycle *always* “hangs” so we use the synthetic (easy care) 40/60 cycles for everything. However the synthetic behaviour is similar to cotton in the early stages of failure. So I’m expecting these programmes to give up eventually as well…The machine has several lights that illuminate in sequence: Ready/Wash/Rinse/Spin/End. Only one is lit up at any time.
It hangs/fails during “Wash” and reverts to “Ready” – i.e. as if it never started. The washing powder tray is empty but the fabric conditioner isn’t used (as expected).Also, despite my attempts to properly level/stabilise the thing it often bounces around quite a bit during the spin cycle so that might be a factor?
Basically, if anyone can narror down the likely cause to something that’s economic to repair I’ll call an engineer. Otherwise, we do have a spare cheapo machine in the garage but it’s a standalone unit so won’t (I guess) fit into an integrated space – though if the exterior cladding comes off I guess it might…
As ever, all advice/comments gratefully received, many thanks in advance for your time and trouble!
Martin wrote:Unfortunately the symptoms you describe do not point to any specific fault. I would be inclined to test the heater …
Thanks for the advice, next time we do a wash I’ll touch the door and see if it feels warm or not 🙂
Re: NEFF 8406 Cycle never completes [Finished]
Eventually decided to get a replacement because the old unit kept failing in different ways. Finally got the new dishwasher (another Neff) plumbed in as part of the delivery – and I’m very glad I did. Turns out that when the house was built they apparently installed the white goods first and essentially built around them. The installer had a really hard time removing the old unit (a bit of waste pipe is still stuck behind the cabinet!) and an even harder time feeding the new pipework through (he had to drill new access holes and luckily – as he later discovered – these were high enough to avoid pipes behind the rear of the cabinet!). Hopefully it’ll be another decade or so before it has to come out again!
Re: NEFF 8406 Cycle never completes
Yes, I’m coming to the same opinion that trying to repair it myself is probably not the best option, mainly because the unit is finding new ways to go wrong and I think a hands-on examination by someone far more knowledgeable than me is the way to go.
As ever, many thanks for your help and advice, much appreciated!Re: NEFF 8406 Cycle never completes
Well, it’s more broken now.
It no longer seems to heat the water … until I switch it off! (Simply pausing doesn’t seem to work though I haven’t checked this exhaustively). When power resumes, a few minutes later the water is much hotter? The cold rinse cycle still works.
Also now the dishes aren’t cleaned properly, in particular tea stains aren’t removed – even after I’ve power cycled it and left it running with the water heating up.
Does this make any sense to you?Re. the installation manual all I could find was a single illustrated sheet with minimal text (in various languages). Haven’t had chance to look at it properly yet, but first impressions are that removing it looks surprisingly fiddly…
Probably won’t get chance to do anything much more in the next few days. I’m coming round to the opinion that I should either buy a new one (Siemens look good) or get a local engineer in (the preferred guy is away until mid-October). I’m surprised that it isn’t easy to view these integrated dishwashers prior to purchase – several shops claimed to sell them but didn’t have them on display. Pity. Any thoughts or comments you might have would be very helpful!
Anyhow, I really appreciate all your help but really don’t want to use up your time or goodwill unnecessarily so will understand if you think that it isn’t worth spending any more time on this – after all, it’s still finding new ways to go wrong!
Re: NEFF 8406 Cycle never completes
Hmmm … sounds like it’s pretty much at end of life.
I’ve a busy weekend but will download and peruse Neff’s documentation in due course – probably Monday, with luck! Will let you know how I get on.
Many thanks and much respect for your advice.
Re: NEFF 8406 Cycle never completes
As ever, really grateful for your help.
Just a few questions, if I may, to put the task into some sort of context (I’m the sort of guy who tries to replace a tap washer and ends up burning the house down!).
Would this be a big (i.e. time consuming) job for a competent engineer?
And how long do you think it would take to do the job?Do you have any feeling as to whether the major cost of this job the price of the replacement part or the engineer’s time?
Also, do you know what the typical lifespan is of this make/model? I appreciate it’s impossible to say for my particular unit, but in general and in your experience, if this repair was done do you feel I could reasonably expect a few more years trouble-free use from it? Basically this will help to establish whether the repair will be economic or not.
I’ve never removed the kick boards under the dishwasher but I have done so with the one under the washing machine and tumble dryer a few times. The very first time I removed it I managed to break the only clip holding that one in place…
Anyway, that’s my problem. Assuming I get the kick board off, how heavy is a dishwasher to move? Also, how on earth do you level it up when it is back in its recess? I have spirit levels, but none that I can use in such restricted height…It’ll have to come out whether it’s repaired (by me or an engineer) or replaced. So, I might as well have a go at removing it myself. S’pose I’d best alert the local fire station!
Sorry to ask so many questions but this is all new to me.
