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Re: F & P Smartdrive Pancake Motor Removal
There’s a post at http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/la … 16123.html that details how to dismantle the rotor / bearing assembly.
Re: F&P IW811 begins wash cycle fill but pumps out at same t
If this is an “eco” model it sounds like the diverter valve is faulty. From the service manual, “this should have a resistance between 0.7k? and 2.5k?, values are dependent on ambient temp and when it was last actuated.”
Fixed: F&P IW711 Display Flickering
I pulled the controller module out of the machine last Tuesday and extracted the board. The two large electrolytic caps in the power supply looked a bit dodgy (slight bulge in the top) so I have replaced them. The originals were 270uF rated at 250V and 85 degrees. I have replaced them with low ESR 270uF 400V which are physically a bit larger but fit into the module case OK – matching parts were not available.
The parts are PANASONIC – EETUQ2G271CA – CAPACITOR, 270UF, 400V which are Farnell/element14 part # 1198679
And now everyone is smiling again as the machine works perfectly 😀
Re: Fisher & Paykel pump noise
Removed the fluff that was built up around the shaft and a couple of drops of oil. 6 weeks later it is still silent.
Re: FISHER & PAYKEL Intutive IW812 will not drain
And don’t forget the diagnostics mode allows you to check what water level the controller is sensing. On my IW711 it’s on the screen accessed by pressing the lifecycles button – the screen shows “WL” followed by a number. By manually controlling the cold water valve and the pump you should be able to get a reading from 0~1 at empty through to ~200 at completely full.
HTH
Re: F&P IW711 Dead
Here’s the final outcome in case anyone else has a similar problem. Also my research has found the diverter valve failure is a common problem – and when it fails it takes out the controller board. (Interestingly, the replacement diverter valve has a PVC cover with “DO NOT REMOVE THIS COVER” printed on it. A case of the manufacturer finding a problem, and deciding it is cheaper to keep quiet about it ? )
Anyway back to the eventual solution.
I replaced the following components:
– main fuse (slow blow 4A, 250V for the 230VAC machines)
– Diodes D861 and D862 with equivalent parts (600V/1A, ultrafast rectifier, OnSemi MURS160T3)
– MOSFET Q862 (STD2NC60, this part is no longer available but STP3NK60Z is a good substitute)
– driver transistor Q861 was replaced with a generic NPN switching transistor (BC847B).These are all surface mounted components so ensure you use a temperature controlled soldering iron with a fine tip. Carefully remove the old components with solder wick without damaging the board or adjacent components.
If you have any questions please PM.
HTHDavid
Re: F&P Smart Drive 051 – no power
I found 2 blown diodes on my IW711 board. When they blew, they went closed circuit (not open) so as soon as the machine was powered up, the main fuse blew. You can test diodes in circuit with a multimeter.
HTH
David
Re: F&P IW711 Dead
OK, after a bit more investigation, I’ve found the problem. It seems when I tipped the machine back and removed the pump, a small amount of water splashed onto the diverter valve wiring, shorting it out !
The diverter valve is driven by a MOSFET (Q862) and a pair of fast rectifier diodes (D861/2).
These diodes are shorted closed, 👿 thus explaining why the fuse blows when power is applied to the board.
I have ordered replacements for the diodes and MOSFET, which will be here next Tuesday. Instead of $175 for a new controller, I’m up for approx $5 in parts 😀
Be warned !
HTH
Re: F&P IW711 Dead
I’ve just checked the resistance for components while the machine is open.
Pump 33.3 Ohm
Diverter valve 2.1K
Hot valve 64.1 Ohm
Cold valve 63.5 OhmMotor windings are approx 32-33 Ohm
I had wondered if any of these were faulty, and caused the initial blowout.
Could someone please confirm these are within tolerance. No point putting in a new control board if the peripherals are going to blow it again 😳
Is there anything else I should check while I’m there ?P.S. I’ve just checked the date on the back of the machine and it was manufactured in late 2002 – so it is actually 5 years old. Time flies.
