[hgibson]

Re: Problems with ISE 1607W door seal

This got to the point where it was impossible to seal the door properly, so I called out the engineer again.

Turns out that the door seal had been modified about 6 months ago, changing the profile so that it didn’t catch in the drum.

The machine is now working fine (apart from the odd glitch in fitting a new seal – make sure that the long supporting boss behind the seal flange goes next to the hinge!). No more worrying about the seal.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Problems with ISE 1607W door seal

Thanks Ken. It’s good to know that it’s not a general problem.

Should I contact my local repair agency or do you want to take a look at it?

Here is the distortion. Black on black makes it difficult to see:

This one shows the actual place where it has caught on the drum. I’ve highlighted the mark:

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: AEG 4040 Favorit pumping out problem

Yes, that looks like the right one.

The part number given in the other thread is 1118139-00/3 but that was 6 years ago.

I’ll order one. Any tricks to watch out for when fitting?

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: AEG Lavamat 610 controller fault?

Also, are the door seals still available, and what is involved in fitting them? Ours has developed a bit of a gap to the drum at the bottom and is
swallowing the odd sock.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Electrolux ceramic hob relay chatter

The price of a new control board was £130 + VAT.

I ended up getting a new flush ceramic Matsui hob at £180 which was a drop-in replacement for the Electrolux. Not a lot more, and guaranteed to work – I might have knackered a new control board.

Anyone interested in spares from the Electrolux hob? All the elements are in good working order.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Electrolux ceramic hob has no beep

Thanks, that is helpful…. I think!

I had the unit off while I checked for the serial numbers, removing it from the worktop and incidentally cleaning out all the muck from around the edge. Last night the beep worked for the longest it has in a long time!

That was probably the mechanical disturbance. I’ll take a look at the board and see if there’s any obvious dry joints. I certainly don’t want to have to buy a new one if I can avoid it!

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Changing temp at which hot water is used

Fair comments, K. I’ll look into the detergent – we use Surcare… Hmmm, lots of reports online saying how good it is for reducing eczema, nothing about wash temperature gradients. I might call them tomorrow.

Regarding the machine – it seems to use hot fill on the main wash filling cycle only (code 2 or 7 from memory) and then only if the temperature dial is up around 70 degrees or higher. Any chance of getting a copy of the circuit?

When I had to replace the brushes (6 months or so ago) I had a good look around inside the machine. Everything looked fine, and the most encouraging thing was that the drum ran extremely smoothly with the belt off. Hopefully it will last a bit longer, even with the tinkering I’m planning. What’s liable to fail next? What should I get in stock here?

We were thinking about a new machine, higher capacity and washer dryer as we were planning on putting the machine under the stairs and only had room for one appliance. However I read all the scare stories about modern machines, OOB detectors vs. higher capacity, plastic drums etc and concluded that the machine we had was actually quite good – and maybe we could live with the occasional use of the dryer if it was in the garage.

Since then we’ve added a laundry to our building work so have room for two appliances. So we’ll continue with this old machine.

I’ll run an experiment with a plug-in power meter and see how much energy is used by a very cold wash versus a 60 degree wash. That will show the relative amount of electricity consumed by heating the water vs turning the drum etc. I know that a hot fill won’t replace all the heating as there will be considerable loss from the uninsulated drum, but it will give an indication of possible savings.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Changing temp at which hot water is used

Thanks K. I forgot to say that we use non-biological detergent. Also, it seems to me that with the large thermal mass of the inner and outer drum (as well as the clothes) that even the initial fill will end up quite cool.

This machine has a continuously variable temperature dial plus rotary electromechanical timer with a couple of different programs plus switch selectable options. You can choose any temperature for the main wash, so I know at what point it switches over to hot, which is about 70 degrees (you can adjust the temp while it’s filling). That’s obviously set for the normal temperature of hot water in the UK, ignoring any losses in the pipework.

I’m not planning to have an adjustable external mixer. Just one to bring the temperature down to 55 degrees, and then change the cam so that hot fill is used for anything over 60 degrees.

I might also consider making the cold intake 20 degrees using another mixer so that colder washes have less heating to do. Rinses will be hotter but we will have lots of hot water available.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Changing temp at which hot water is used

Thanks (I think!) for the comments guys…

Regarding the article: as I say, the washing machine will be very close to the hot water cylinder – and we’ve already bought it, 14 years or more ago. It’s got a stainless steel drum (rare these days) and new brushes and still works fine, so we have no plans to replace it.

I’m aware that it only uses hot for the main wash cycle, and even then it doesn’t use much. We used to wash nappies in it and when you turn the temp up too high it would switch to hot fill, with no cold intake. As I don’t have the hot water connected I had to do this by letting it fill on 60 degrees and then turn the temp up.

As we have asthma sufferers in the house we wash all sheets at 60 degrees and we have twins on the way so may wash nappies again at 90 degrees. In that case being able to preheat will help, as the hot water is free.

Thanks for the information, Penguin45. I’ll take a look at the switch. Maybe a bit of filing will do the job! And if I mess it up we can just connect cold to both hot and cold intakes.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Which brushes for AEG Lavamat 610?

On its fourth wash now and the motor is quiet again – no buzzing at all.

Thanks again for your help.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Which brushes for AEG Lavamat 610?

Brushes arrived, thanks.

Unfortunately the plastic housing was a different shape: the pips on the bottom were a different size and spaced differently, and the brushes were cut the wrong way.

The good news is that the internal metal housing, brush and connector were identical so I put the new brushes in the old housing and am doing an empty cycle to wear them in.

I used some 1000 grit sandpaper to clean up the commutator which was black. There was some scoring evident on it. Sanded down the corners of the new brushes. There’s some noise when the motor is running, a high-pitched buzzing. It does sound like it’s changing as the brushes bed in.

Thanks again for your help.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Which brushes for AEG Lavamat 610?

Thanks, I’ve ordered some brushes which look the right shape etc.

I’ll read and digest your guides; however on first looking at the washer/dryer article there are a few links which are broken, perhaps with machines which are no longer available. They could do with a quick review.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Electrolux oven door glass separating

Find the screws.

Yep, took a closer look today and it’s pretty obvious. I can see the clips glued to the bottom of the door by looking through the gap at the bottom of the inner pane. And I’ve seen the excellent video on how to remove the door.

One tube of sticky being ordered now.

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Electrolux oven door glass separating

Quote:
You may have to split the door to remove the glass and carefully clean off all traces of the old adhesive.

Is that straightforward? I guess that would involve separating the metal inner door from the front glass. Is there a technique for doing that which doesn’t result in broken front glass?

Any comments on this?

Hugh

[hgibson]

Re: Electrolux oven door glass separating

Thanks for your reply.

You may have to split the door to remove the glass and carefully clean off all traces of the old adhesive.

Is that straightforward? I guess that would involve separating the metal inner door from the front glass. Is there a technique for doing that which doesn’t result in broken front glass?

And then I suppose there would be two glueing operations – inner door plus inside glass; then outer door to inner door. Not a problem – it solves the issue of applying weight while the inner glass adhesive is curing.

I don’t mind tackling this sort of job; just want to make sure I do it right. I don’t want to crack the front glass though!

Inner door panel complete with glass is available as a spare, not over expensive. Part number. 3578339115

Do you know the code for a complete front door, in white?

Hugh

[Author]

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