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don wrote:
Bosch 2 and 5 year warranty details https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/customer-service/warranty#/Togglebox=9197539-15284478-2/
Don
Thanks. I’d already read that and given the detail they state about use on boats it seemed to be quite light on other areas. I’m wondering if “improper installation [or] use” has been used by BSH in a “well if the bearings failed if must have been one of those” kind of way. I’ll let you know if I find out.
iadom wrote:
As the vast majority of appliances currently on the market have totally sealed outer drums and have had for many years the number of bearing changes these days is almost nil.:(Getting the bearing kit for £50-ish on the older machine becomes buying a new complete tub unit for £250 (current BSH prices). Although I’d prefer to do the bearing replacement I’m almost inclined to see the new pricing which is less than half price of full machine as reasonable value given the time / risk as a beginner saved by not splitting tub, etc . Not a good move for overall impact though given that many would find the cost of getting someone to do the same prohibitive compared to replacing machine. If new machine fails to last much beyond 5-year warranty I’d probably be looking next for a (by then) c.15yo machine with split tub that I can refurb.
Which reminds me of a question I thought of… Do Bosch replace the tubs under 5-year warranty if bearings fail, or say it is wear and tear so won’t?
Many thanks, that helped me find the problem.
There is just one brush which is on a hinged PP mount with a spring to pull it on to a special looking band of metal the drum, AEG part 647 071 680 on the diagrams I found, leading to this: https://www.mijnonderdelenhuis.nl/ae…470716805.html
The hinge was nearly fractured, but the remaining thread of plastic had allowed the brush to twist and drag on a different part of the drum – so on first inspection all looked well. I’ve now bodged the hinge with adhesive tape to see how things go for while. Initial test good – ran dryer empty and it turns off after a few seconds as it can now detect there is nothing to do.
If anyone on the forum can supply that part ex-UK feel free to let me know :).
electrofix wrote:… like a pnc number ?
Thanks. PNC is 916 011 077 02.
I’m becoming more convinced it is the dryness sensor side of things that is problematic. I put a damp towel in last night and while there was no overheating odours it just kept running on initial / default programme countdown. No jump in timer when it realised it was a small load, and no lighting of the dampness / ironing LEDs even though towel was fully dried.
It looks like we missed a 10-year warranty “special offer” that Miele ran for 1 year or so to Feb 2021(?). Is that the sort of thing they repeat fairly often? Might hold out for it if so.
don wrote:Be aware that the Miele WEA025 and the WCA030 have sealed tubs. While they are shown on Miele tech there is no part number attached to it so I have to assume it is not going to be cost effective.
Don
WWG660 is current selection, having worked up the model range to get the preferred set of wash programmes.
electrofix wrote:Also the smells in machines are caused by the way they are being used and not the construction material. I would add its not helped by having a cold only feed to the machine
That’s again interesting and useful.
Our experience is that a stainless steel tub machine next to a plastic one with random selection of which load goes in where has led to continued odour problems with the plastic one but none at all with the steel one. It seems that one is more accepting of our laundry regime even though we might be able to help the other one along by changing it. Is there a post / blog on “correct use” to avoid the problem in all machines?
I could add a blended hot / cold feed if it would help.
electrofix wrote:Plastic tubs are not the problem, its unrepairable, welded plastic tubs.
Dave
Thanks, I hadn’t realised that. The Bosch we had looked like it was made from recycled plastic, which is a sensible idea but it seemed to also harbour mould perhaps due to not being very smooth. At one point I took it out and set it up on it’s back like a cauldron with the heater element turned on for a few hours. That freshened it up for a couple of months…
So to adjust my question, how would I spot the last maintainable family of machines from each manufacturer, plastic tub or not?
sc2987 wrote:I need a new washing machine … I want the new one to be easily repairable.
I’m on a similar mission due to the death of our 22 year-old AEG over the w/e, and a ~10 year-old Bosch one six months ago.
Reading the warning on large capacity machines is interesting. We’re lucky enough to have space for two machines, so a pair of 5kg / 6kg machines may be a better bet. That’s what the old machines were, and it gave us enough capacity overall.
But it gets back to the question of which machine(s) to get next. The AEG is stainless steel drum, has had various parts replaced, etc but PCB death seems too hard to reliably rectify on a machine that old. Bosch was sealed plastic, suffered odours and mould far too often, and ultimately went due to non-replaceable bearings.
I’m considering getting decent looking 2nd hand machines with stainless steel tubs. Is there a guide anywhere to when each manufacturer switched from steel to plastic, such as which model codes, years or series?
electrofix wrote:if the motor had lost insulation i would expect the RCD to go if you have one
have you checked the relays for a sticking contact ?
Dave
Thanks
Yes, we have an RCD and its not tripping. I was thinking more of a dead short than leakage though.
I hadn’t checked the relays, but have now. There are two in the area that is showing damage. One DPDT somewhat away from the damaged area and one SPDT right in the path that is lifting tracks. Both make satisfying clicks and disconnect / connect as expected.
The only other suspect looking component also in the path showing damage is a three-legged device labelled T2522MH – possibly a 25A triac from looking around.
My initial guess due to it starting OK but then blowing a little later was that it was having trouble switching from slow speed to higher. Your suggestion of relays makes me thing it may be when the rotation is trying to reverse during the slow “churns” to settle the load before going faster, if I remember correctly what the machine does. Maybe a live / neutral to the motor is being left unswitched creating a short as the “other side” does switch.
I think it’s getting to a point where I’ll declare it dead. I spent time fixing the door interlock on another machine a year or two ago, and then the bearings went. At 22 years I may end up spending time fixing something every few months. It already had two water distributor boards and a 3rd may be about due; pretty sure I did the bearings once as well; its on 3rd set of motor brushes but they look serviceable for quite some time yet.
Many thanks for the pointers though.
electrofix wrote:if your running a fan inside a fridge you also have condensation issues unless the fan is designed to work in the environment
plus a potential fire issueDave
Hmmm :(.
Do the condensation and fire risk go together? Or separate issues? If the fire risk is from higher current consumption I’d take care of that by running additional / larger wires.
I can see parts like Miele Dynacool fans with housing that would presumably be OK, as long as they are 240V.
kwatt wrote:Sounds like the compressor is on the ay out and, after 20 years that’s no great surprise. That being the case, if you did want to repair it it’d cost a small fortune as that will be using R12 or R134a so will be difficult to repair.
K.
Many thanks. I’ll stop looking at the conrtol board then as it seems to be OK based on my tests so far and that would fit your diagnosis.
It’s R600a gas, but I doubt that’ll change the economics of a renovation very much :(.
I’ll try my idea of a circulation fan and see if it evens things up. Any initial bets on whether it’ll work or not? Is a regular 240V fan going to grumble running at 5C? Should I put lighter oil in the bearings.
