[nickhenderson]

Thanks for the replies Gents, both helpful and disheartening hahaha.
The Manual you listed Dave is in German, if anyone wants, heres the English one. Oops cant load it, too big. If anyone wants it…. ask me. Thanks for the repair link, but as im in the Philippines, a bit far for posting i feel.
I guess the every 4 days hair dryer defrost regime is here to stay for a while.
Thanks to you both for the fast replies.
Have a great day from a place where its typhoons, tsunamis, earthquakes and all year round, 24 hr, 30 pus degrees!!

[nickhenderson]

In reply to Dave, had a local tech come out to look at re gassing. He cut the lines and there was still pressure inside.
Did a leak down test for 30 mins anyway and all was good.
Re gassed and 24hrs later all is great. Cooling very well, error codes gone and appears all back to normal.
I guess after 18 yrs it’s not bad.
Cost to re gas was equivalent of 50 quid.
Fingers crossed I get another 18 yrs out of this charge.

[nickhenderson]

Nice, didnt see the link that if compressor is running, sensors have signaled it to run. Thanks for pointing that one out!

[nickhenderson]

New issue is although the compressor is running and hot, freezer evap coil is not cooling enough to lower temp. It looks like either the temp sensor is duff or main board.
Here are ther readings from Tech Service sheet as to values at certain temps.
Genuine Whirlpool is like 50 quid plus but there are very similar ones online for far less.
Only issue is they are listed as 2K, 2.1, 2.4, 5 or 10K Ohms.
Anyone know which would be applicable given my tech sheet chart?
Thanks in advance.

[nickhenderson]

Just an update, got around to testing again with the meter set on a lower range and got 89 Ohms so i guess the heater element is okay.
Going to splash out on a replacement Defrost Thermostat from the link here on the site. Plus a few fridge buls to replace dead ones over the years.

[nickhenderson]

Would anyone know if the defrost element is 240V or stepped down? I guess another test “Could” be to apply current to both ends and see if it heats up. Very non PC i do realize but it “could” be a work around “proof of life” sort of thing.

[nickhenderson]

Thanks for this feedback. I will test it again tonight on varying scales and see if i can get a reading somewhere. Super helpful feedback!

[nickhenderson]

Just tested the defrost element with a digital ohm meter and got a reading of 0.
I guess this indicates a defective element. Any more knowledgeable souls want to chip in and confirm?
Thanks.

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