[Rbz5416]

electrofix wrote:date code 26 should be feb 04

hotpoint site shows this as correct for your model
https://parts.hotpoint.co.uk/product/model_C366EKH/Thermometers/J00144106

Dave

Thanks, the date ties in with the date on the part. That Hotpoint part looks the same as what I’ve ordered from you, so should be good.

[Rbz5416]

electrofix wrote:there copuld be a mod somewhere where a single switch is changed for 2 seperates

could not look it up as need more numbers off it

Dave

Here’s the model plate. Judging by what looks like a date code on the thermostat it looks to have been built in 2004. According to another spares site the ET50001/J5 was fitted from “Date code 26” but no idea how that relates.

[Rbz5416]

Another issue with the cooker has reminded me I never did update this. The contact suppressor “fix” lasted around six months before the fault resurfaced. So I relented & bought the timer as I should have done in the first place. Needless to say that fixed it properly! I guess all the poking & prodding just temporarily remade a bad joint somewhere in the timer.

Any chance you guys can sort out the multiple instances of pics in each thread please? It seems to be preventing me adding more to another thread.

[Rbz5416]

electrofix wrote:it will be a switchgear problem behind the knob

Dave

Thanks Dave.

As is usual for everything I try to DIY, what I have doesn’t match what I can find online. From a previous adventure with the timer I have a parts diagram, which shows the switch pack in two parts. The main switch appearing to be 6201383, which I have.

What’s actually fitted to the cooker looks nothing like that. It’s actually part ET510001/J5, which seems to largely be described as a complete thermostat for Cannon. But I’ve ordered it anyway so we’ll see what happens!

[Rbz5416]

Thanks Dave, your help is greatly appreciated.

[Rbz5416]

What is it, capacitor?

Sorry, didn’t realise there were so many numbers.
FD: 8612
ENR: SRS43C22GB/04

Looks like the part may be 00600233 but can’t see it on your list?

[Rbz5416]

Sorry, RCB. Couldn’t find an edit button. First time it went with the bang it took out both & I couldn’t reset the MCB until the dishwasher was unplugged.

Haven’t seen any signs of leaks & it wasn’t in use when the bang happened. But I can remove the panel & have a look.

It’s only tripped once when in use but generally when idle. From memory that was quite early in the program, probably before the heating element had kicked it. It’s now on an RCD in the mains socket so when it does trip, it doesn’t take the whole circuit out. Approx half the time I go to switch it on I have to reset the RCD first.

I’m wondering if when I do pull it out I’ll find the remains of a mouse that chewed the cable?

[Rbz5416]

A belated update. It was actually the valve itself that was letting water in the closed position. So can anyone make use of the two solenoids that came off the old one?

I suppose it would make sense to keep one just in case but two seems overkill. As far as I can see the solenoids are identical, just different colours, is that correct?

[Rbz5416]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1203 Inlet Valve

Part ordered for now while I give it some more thought. But at least I can do that without worrying about the valve failing completely & flooding the place…

Thanks for the help guys.

[Rbz5416]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1203 Inlet Valve

It functions well enough apart from a noisy bearing but the two things that have always annoyed me are the physical size & the alarm. The depth of the machine means it sticks out well beyond the kitchen worktop & is further space hungry with a bowed front & a protruding door.

I know the alarm can be switched off but it’s very useful to prevent excessive creasing when you’ve forgotten a cycle is due to end. But I only need it to sound once, not every 10 seconds!

[Rbz5416]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1203 Inlet Valve

Thanks Dave. Just need to decide whether to repair or replace as I’ve never really been happy with the JL.

[Rbz5416]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1203 Inlet Valve

Thanks Don.

Prod: 914522514 then 00 is separate box.
Type: HI952431

[Rbz5416]

Re: Creda C366e Timer Fault

Just to update.

I cleaned the contacts as best I could & re-assembled the thermostat but the fault was still there as it was turned off. So to put my theory to the test I fitted a contact suppressor across the thermostat contacts – problem solved. Or at least so far.

I used one of these in case it helps anyone else:

http://www.rapidonline.com/220nf-100r-1 … rk-26-5859

[Rbz5416]

Re: Creda C366e Timer Fault

Thanks Dave. 🙂

Does my bouncing contacts theory make any sense to you?

[Rbz5416]

Re: Creda C366e Timer Fault

Well having opened the stat there’s not much in it. The notched travel I was speaking of seems to be the breaking of the contacts at the off position. The only thing that potentially makes sense to me is that as the stat it turned to off, the contacts are bouncing, which is throwing the timer. Does anyone with knowledge of how the timer & stat interact have an opinion on that?

If Dave is still around this is the best pic I can manage of the back if the timer for the moment. I’d rather fix it properly but bridging would do I guess.

Top right is a black wire. Bottom right is a red wire that loops round to a terminal on the bottom left. Top left is a white wire going to the stat.

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