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Hi again,
I think on balance it probably makes sense to get a new machine. It seems a terrible waste to throw away all those working parts, but with the cost of remedy likely costing almost 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the price of a brand new machine, it’s the most financially sensible option if not the environmentally friendly one.
Do you have any recommendations for a machine or brand that is reliable and/or simple/cheap to repair?
Thanks, Richard
I can’t see any signs of water ingress or other component damage aside from the connector to what I assume is the rinse aid level sensor.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PFrjLe7Mx1okL4OQjGWISYCXXzBTDdaF
As per pic above. It does look more than just gunged – probably burnt. Although this seems to be connected to the timer/display board only, could this then have burnt the other board. Or could the motor dying have burnt the board?
I’m reluctant to replace the board + motor + rinse aid tank if there’s a risk of blowing them up again!
Hi Dave
OK – I’ve checked the timer board. It looks intact. However, the other board looks like it has some burning on it, can’t tell how recent though. Here are the pics- of the board and the plastic backing plate which seems to have got burnt too:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SBi1dy1ltPrAk3zH69O-OhD2gpg8DAvf/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DUgxKayy8vHmivgkPI5Eeud3qUZP9mfj/view?usp=sharingReckon that’s it?
Richard
PS. Are those plastic tubes (coming from just below the power switch and from the PCB meant to be connected to anything – or are they attached to pressure switches to kill the power if the door starts filling up with water? i.e. to prevent water coming into contact with the electrics
I’ve taken the front off the door. It seems like the unit has been leaking rinse aid from the rinse aid reservoir (that explains why the light has been flickering on and off for the past six months or so and it’s been gobbling rinse aid!).
Not had a chance to look at the boards yet. Been a very long day and not much in the mood for playing around with dishwashers any longer, but will investigate further tomorrow!
Could the rinse aid issue be enough to destroy the PCB or is there not enough current going through the sensor to cause damage?
I just tested my kettle and that showed 20 ohms which Google suggests is right. Still showing open circuit for the pump.
I think probably burnt out. There is a broken wire on the coil I can see now, but I’m pretty sure I did that trying to prise the plastic section away! Also, I do remember an electrical burning smell coming from the vicinity of the dishwasher when it was running the night prior to the breakdown. Which now makes sense..
Does the ‘all lights on’ situation suggest a circuit board failure? Can I test, should I switch the machine on without pump to see if I get an error code?
Richard
Hi Dave,
Nothing in there that I can find. Fingers still intact!
However, running a continuity test on the pump using the 2 terminals I unplugged the power from shows an open circuit. So I guess it’s faulty.
Also, I can see some fluid in the plastic housing behind the impeller, not sure if that’s meant to be there to lubrica the shaft for the imepller or it’s water getting where it shouldn’t be?
What next, replace the pump?
Richard
Hi Dave
Thanks, managed to get it off. Looks as clean as a whistle, the impeller turns freely but seems to have a bit of bounce in it.
Richard
Thanks Dave,
I’ve removed the panel – do I need to remove the pump to check for blockages? Guessing it’s this (see link) I would need to remove and check white impeller is doing its job?
Thanks, Richard
Re: Whirlpool AWE6517 service light on
Hi Dave
So, the new element arrived in the post today. I’ve whacked it in and the machine is happily half way through a long wash cycle. I guess I’m prepared well in advance should my pressure switch fail in future now!
Very strange that the element should show a continuous circuit and then just after fail, though that must have been what was triggering the fault.
Thanks for your help!
Richard
Re: Whirlpool AWE6517 service light on
I do now have that error, as it happens:
I checked and I actually replaced this just under a year ago – when somehow the element had warped so much it was stopping the drum from turning. Getting the warped element out of the small hole in the drum was a very frustrating job.
Anyway, I’ve ordered a replacement. Fingers crossed this is the solution!
Re: Whirlpool AWE6517 service light on
Hi Dave
I just ran another continuity test on the terminals of the heater element and it’s no longer showing a continuous circuit. So, it looks like that may be it after all, not sure why it gave a different result earlier, perhaps it was just very close to failing?
Re: Whirlpool AWE6517 service light on
Thanks Dave,
I’ve removed the hose and I can blow through it ok, there are no blockages – and no holes (I can’t blow any air through if I put my finger over the other end). I’ve removed the pressure chamber, washed it out, replaced it, made sure that water is leaving the drum to the hole the pressure chamber slots into. All seems fine.
I’ve removed the wires and replaced and I’m still getting the same error.
I checked the heating element. It’s given a resistance of 28ohms (it’s a 2040W 240V heater) which seems right. I ran the machine with the heater unplugged and it gave the error consistent with heater open circuit.
After doing the above I’m still getting the same error as initially.
What’s left to try?
Richard
Re: Whirlpool AWE6517 service light on
Hi again,
So a replacement pressure switch arrived this morning. I’ve replaced it and I’m still getting the same error. I’ve checked the hose and it’s free of kinks.
When I manually put water into the drum and started the drain cycle the pump removed the water, so the pump appears to be fine.
What should I try next?
Thanks, Richard
