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The bearing set was received and installed with success :). The old bearings took a lot of hammering to get out of the carrier/hub. The replacements went in with more ease after a 20 minute chill in the freezer. Disassembly was done with the door seal removed then the front weight, motor, pump, dryer blower and discharge pump to avoid any damage. The machine benefitted from a clean out of all the interior including the dryer heater and dryer ducting.
This was hard graft but very satisfying. I was surprised how little deterioration there was internally. I’m quite impressed with this machine which is on its 2nd set of motor brushes. It was manufactured in 2009 as NOS and used from 2011 to the present day and provides washing for a family of 3 with a large dog. The dryer is hardly used but will be used occasionally to keep the machine in good order as before.
Thanks for that useful info. After confirming the pressure switches, hoses and door wiring I discovered the heater came on when tapping the door near the ECU. I found dry joints on the board around a relay and now the problem appears to be solved.
Thanks Dave for your quick response. The PNC on the badge is 911989307/03, SN is 13840001, Type is 911D96-0L.
I will try another program and monitor if power is being switched to the heater. (I work on TV and radio repair so I am aware of the risks). Also, what is the resistance range for the temp sensor, as I will test that as well with a heat source.
I finally got a chanceto investigate and the heater (an inline barrel type) tests OK on a multimeter. I then traced the wiring back to a pressure switch which also tested fine and the hose back to the sump were clear of muck and tested the pressure switch which worked fine with a meter, blowing into the tube. I then removed the door cover ansd reseated all the plugs to the control module. I shut down the CH boiler to stop hot water and the machine worked fine on 70C… result…or so I thought. Upon running another wash, the heater did not come on. Perhaps there is an intermittent break in the heater. Is the temperature sensor the small black device snapped into the sump as viewed from the front? Could a faulty sensor prevent the heater coming on altogether? Thanks in advance.
Hi Dave, It’s on hot water fill which explains the heat. I take it the fault code of 7 flashes also indicates a failed heater? I will dig the machine out and check. Many thanks.
Looks to be a sticky door switch! I opened the door to check the fridge fan was running, the control panel LCD display came on together with the interior light. What threw me was the control panel LCD and backlight switching off altogether. I’ll update if this is not the case. Thanks for reading.
Just as I posted, we found that the fridge/freezer fans and compressor are now running again but the control panel and interior light are still off lending more to a control board fault? Or my kitchen is haunted. i would not be happy to leave this unattended in this condition for safety reasons.
Re: Ikea/Electrolux Renlig DWT 160 3 beeps on starting.
Replacing the sump was fiddly but not impossible. The leaking hoses are indeed integrated with the sump body as 1 unit. They seem to be made of silicon rubber and probably broke down with abrasion from the high temperature detergent laden water containing particles of food etc. The machine has experienced a few stemmed wine glass breakages (from loading) and small particles of glass were found in old sump along with bits of limescale. The new unit appears to have the hoses now in a black material and they look a bit more sturdy. I noticed the circulation pump does tend to bounce around on its mountings from the air bubbles in the water which can be seen in the transparent pipe that connects the in line heater to the top spray bar. This probably causing cavitation in the impeller/scroll case of the pump. This flexes the outlet hose noticeably on the old sump but the black hoses on the new sump seem to be more rigid in general damping this out. The discharge pump also jumps around when it starts and then ‘hunts’ for water when the machine is emptied. It hangs off the end off the other hose for support and sits on a little cylinder of foam wedged under the motor body on top of the tray on the bottom of the machine.
Re: Ikea/Electrolux Renlig DWT 160 3 beeps on starting.
Thanks for you replies. In the end I bought a new sump assembly from Electrolux as I did not have time to improvise separate hoses. Fitting was reasonably straightforward apart from the in-line heater detaching itself from the pipe up the back of the tub to the top spray arm and the heavy circulation pump detaching its mounting rubbers from the base. All back together now and one successful leak free test run with all the covers off (being wary of exposed electrics of course).
Re: Ikea/Electrolux Renlig DWT 160 3 beeps on starting.
I beleive I have found the leak. A short light/yellowish coloured hose that connects the filter/sump to the intake of the circulation pump; (see in centre of attached picture). The drips of water appear near the clip. I guess I will have to place the dishwasher on its side and remove the base tray? Can someone point me to a good parts supplier? Thanks in advance.
Re: Ikea/Electrolux Renlig DWT 160 3 beeps on starting.
Hi bazza500,
Spot on 😀 I set the machine to run and came back to find it running :tup: Now to track down and fix the leak. Update on progress to follow.
