spindoctorlove

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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • in reply to: Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD603H #333868
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD603H

    hi huggie

    yes indeed, an F2 failure points to a rotor motor failure in that drawer.

    Has that drawer become noisier of late? The common problem with the DD603 model is that the blades on the rotor motor are plastic and they tend to chafe . . or splinter. Change the rotor motor in that drawer and you’ll be ok i’m sure.

    Joe

    in reply to: Admiral side by side GC2224GEKB #270472
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Admiral side by side GC2224GEKB

    genty

    this is probably due to the fact that the heater mod kit has to be wired into the lighting circuit in the fridge . . . have you tried speaking to Maytag? There are a couple of different types of heater kits depending on the damper thats fitted to your model. But they do come with very good fitting instructions with diagrams.

    Joe

    in reply to: Whirlpool Side by Side Freezer “Leaking” #330986
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool Side by Side Freezer “Leaking”

    Hi magnimike

    this is quite a simple one to diagnose, turn your water supply back on, open your freezer door and locate the little black bung above your icemaker that drops water into the icemaker itself . . . . does it start to steadily drip/flow?

    If so, you will need to change the water valve in the rear of your machine, unless you know what you’re doing i would strongly advise an engineer here as there are fragile pipes in the area around where the valve is seated.

    Hope this helps

    Joe

    in reply to: Whirlpool Wash/Mach – American Collection #333853
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool Wash/Mach – American Collection

    Hi wenger

    usually, faced with this fault, i would be inspecting the clutch for signs of wear, and replacing it. Not a hard job, and if you can do it yourself the clutch will prob cost you no more than around £40 or so.

    Joe

    in reply to: Whirpool Side by Side Fridge Freezer Model 858617215000 #333301
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Whirpool Side by Side Fridge Freezer Model 858617215000

    Nav

    this usually means the front pcb (in your user control) is at fault and requires replacement.

    Alternatively, depending on your level of expertise, check the forums on changing capacitors in these boards, some users have had success by repairing the pcbs’ themselves as these boards are usually over £100 a throw.

    Hope this helps

    Joe

    in reply to: Fisher and Paykel E402B – persistent beeping #333396
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Fisher and Paykel E402B – persistent beeping

    dougj

    agree with John, this is common problem on F&P fridge freezers, the wires to the fridge and freezer fans are very thin and do break. They are cheap to buy . . so dont panic.

    Usual associated symptoms . . . overfrosting on back wall of freezer will usually mean the freezer fan has failed.

    A warmer fridge (is your milk going off), will usually mean the fridge fan is at fault.

    Joe

    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: Split water pipe on whirlpool american fridge freezer..

    Charlotte

    the tube replacement kit for your fridge freezer is a standard type for all models (drinking water tube kit, freezer door)

    the Whirlpool part number is 4812 530 29272, and should cost you approx £20 + vat +P&P

    Joe

    PS, let me know if you need one and i can put you in touch with a supplier, but please dont try to fit it yourself unless you know what you’re doing, it does involve removal of electronic board to access . . . .

    in reply to: WHIRLPOOL 6TH SENSE AWM 8103/1 error #333093
    spindoctorlove
    Participant

    Re: WHIRLPOOL 6TH SENSE AWM 8103/1 error

    bro1

    forget “resetting” the washing machine, the problem does sound pressure related as previously advised, but could be something as simple as a blocked pressure chamber which was very common on older Whirlpool washing machines, you will find the pressure bottle is a squareish plastic bottle attached to the outer tub just below and to the right of the bottom of the door seal, one easy test to see if its blocked is to removed the pressure tube from the pressostat and blow down it. (observe safety, unplug machine), gently pull off the outer door bellow ring and just peel back the right side of the door bellow, just to the right behind the door lock you’ll feel a black rubber tube (quite narrow), its connected to the pressure switch (pressostat) just above it. pull it off carefully and you’ll be able to pull it through the porthole just enough to blow down it, if you cant blow air through to the tub then the pressure bottle is blocked and you will need to remove the front panel of the machine and remove and clean out the bottle. Let me know how you get on . . .

    Joe

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)