[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

iadom wrote:It appears I may have given you the wrong part number for the harness, the parts diagrams are not very clear on harness info. 😳

Don’t worry, Hotpoint told me it was that part too and they are going to exchange it for the right one.

iadom wrote:
7 cable harness from motor to chopper board is C00201717.

Yes, I’m sure that’s the opne. BTW what is a chopper?

iadom wrote:
The motors are quite tight and do need tapping or prising out of the drum mountings, if you have taken it off then at that age you might as well stick some new brushes in anyway.

Yes, I gave it a gentle tap with a mallet. I did wonder about changing them after going to all the effort of removing them but I figrued, I may as well wait until they were worn more. Are there any signs I should look for nearer the time, to tell me they are due to be changed, or is it too late by the time it starts showing? Thanks.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

Hello, All the parts arrived in the week, so I set about working on the machine today. Unfortunately I have the wrong harness. I ordered the 10-way harness but it seems the cable from the motor goes to a circuit board on the bottom right hand side (as you look into the machine). There is a 7-way socket one each end of this cable, so I guess it’s called a 7-way harness. I saw one of these listed on the hotpoint web site. I did double check the part I needed with hotpoint, so it’s disappointing they didn’t spot this.

The motor was a bit stiff, perhaps it had not been removed before? I checked the brushes. How long are they when new? There is 2-3cm there, so nothing to worry about just yet.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

Thanks. Will let you know how I get on.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

Hello.

I’m just waiting for the cable to arrive in the post.

I will check the brushes at the same time. How long do they normally last? I’m tryign to remember how old the machine is. It could have been bought about 2001/2. Do they go without warning?

I’m just wondering, how easy is it to remove the motor and the belt and then put them all back together again afterwards? Any hints or tips?

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

Thanks I have done that now.

For the benefit of anyone searching the archives: after removing the three screws around the soap drawer, you can see a ribbon cable going to the console (the switches and LED display) and this just pulls off, allowing you to remove the panel completely.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

iadom wrote:There are screws top and bottom of the front panel, you need to remove the soap drawer and console first.

The motor to main PCB wiring harness is part number C00201719.

C00085194 is the correct door lock.

Lying it on its back is not the best thing to do when removing the front panel gives you complete access.

You have to remove the motor complete to check the brushes but carbon dust all over the place is quite normal.

Thank you. The uk white goods shop does not seem to list C00201719 but it does list the connector block, which I guess is all I need. Though I suppose swapping the wires might have been quicker if they were available.

Sorry I didn’t make myself clear about the brushes. What I meant was I can see the carbon protruding from the unit, not carbon dust. The only thing is I don’t know how much more carbon is inside the body. I could have several months left on the other hand there could be just a couple of mm. How do I check this? I’m guessing I remove the brushes and see how much is inside. If it is short (how short?) I change them?

I know you shouldn’t lie dishwashers on their side. I only laid this one over briefly and only because I didn’t know the front came off. In future I will remove the front. Removing the soap tray will be easy enough; how do I remove the console?

Thanks again.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

DDSDDS wrote:would advise you not to use it till you have checked the brushes as on some of these models when the brushes finally give in they take the pcb with it so check them before you use it again

Sorry, absolutely the last post I make before waiting for your replies!

I can only see the one brush (grey wire). The other one (with blue wire) is obscured from view. There is carbon protruding from it. How do you know when to change them? Should I remove them and see what length of carbon is left? What length do I change them at?

I think you were right, that the cable has rubbed against the bottom concrete block because the one earth cable looks as though its insulation has been rubbed and there is a broken cable tie on the floor. If I replace the tie, hopefully it will keep the cables away from the block again.

Other than that, there seems to be some scale (?) around the join on the soap tray. Is this anything to worry about? I’m guessing it is just cosmetic. Other than that, it looks quite clean in there.

I see the drum is two plastic halves bolted together, which is reassuring as I understand newer models have sealed drums that cannot be dismantled.

Are hoses always a standard metre length? They really don’t need to be that long and just get coiled up behind the machine. Can you get shorter ones?

Has anyone ever retrofitted fuses to protect the PCB?

Thanks (again)

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

iadom wrote:TBH to fully inspect the wiring harness you need to remove the whole of the front panel.

If it is damaged it is often possible to repair or insulate the breaks and re route to avoid catching the front weight.

It can also chafe were it is attached to the front of the outer drum underneath the plastic cable ties.

Sorry to post again.

I re-read your reply and see that you said to remove the whole of the front panel. How do I do this?

I have had a look through the store and I believe the part I need is:
C00198830

I did post a while ago about the door spring needing changing, so is this the right part for that: C00202401

Another reply (from the old thread) said to change the lock at the same time. Do you agree? Is it this one: C00085194

re. the brushes, provided I can see carbon, is this ok?

Thanks (sorry for all the questions)

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

iadom wrote:TBH to fully inspect the wiring harness you need to remove the whole of the front panel.

If it is damaged it is often possible to repair or insulate the breaks and re route to avoid catching the front weight.

It can also chafe were it is attached to the front of the outer drum underneath the plastic cable ties.

Hello,

I have just inspected the machine. As far as I can see, there are two torx screws that have to be removed to remove the lid. This lets me look down into the machine. Then there is a panel around where the waste pipe exits the machine, which is held on with standard pozi screws. This lets me look into the bottom half of the machine. And I can see that the “floor” of the machine is open, so lying it down, allows me to see in through there. The rest of the case seems to be welded, so am I right to think, this is as much as I can remove and look into?

The wires are pristine across the top of the machine and around the motor at the back. However when looking through the back I can see a grey witre hanging down, going nowhere.

I lay the machine on its back (hope it’s ok to do that!) so that I could look through the hole in the base. There is a 7-way connector and it looks as though this wire has come out of connector number 1. I guess when the machine vibrates on fast spin, this touches the chassis and blows the RCD. The connector doesn’t look as though I can reinsert the cable. Can I buy a new one? What does cable 1 do, as the machine seems to have been working without it!

Thanks.

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint WMA63 tripping RCD on fast spin

Thank you. I will take off the cover and have a look (with the power off and plug out) later in the week. If it is chafed, is it simply a matter of unplugging the old one and fitting a new one or isn’t it quite as easy as that?

[Stephen99]

Re: Which electric oven?

don wrote:Hi

It’s all down to budget. To get a decent double you will need to be looking at the £500 mark and up.

Ones to avoid? I would not go for a brand you have not heard of or a DIY chain special.

Our cooking buying guide here has a few good articles worth reading.

HTH 🙂

Don

Thanks. I had a quick look around a nearby Currys during lunchtime. They seemed to have mainly Bosch, Hotpoint, and Beko. From what I have read here, Beko is built to a (low) price, so their appliances are not recommended. I know Bosch washing machines have a good reputation but wasn’t sure whether the same applied to their ovens. I’m not sure about the Hotpoint ones; from what I have read here some like the brand and soem don’t but again, that is from reading about washers rather than ovens!

I was expecting the price to be around £500, so that’s ok.

The pages you linked to were useful, thanks. I saw that some of the ovens had a dial where you could choose whetehr the fan came on and whether the top element or rear element, etc was used. I couldn’t understand why before but that page helped explain the theory. I wonder whether it makes a real difference in practice though, and how many people need that versatility? How many people own a pizza stone?

[Stephen99]

Re: Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 door seal

iadom wrote:1200 is the spin speed. 😉

Model number is on the console, far right under the on/off switch or inside the door near the hinge.

If you are in any way handy with a screwdriver then it is a fairly simple job. Be sure to remove the plug first. A lot of engineers will do it without removing the front panel but it might be the best thing to do for a first timer. 🙂

Thanks. I had realised that the 1200 was the spin speed because my own machine is a hotpoint 1600 something. I seem to remember reading something here that said spins above 1200 (or was it 1400?) aren’t any better? I was just expecting the shop would have said “door seal for aquarius 1200” rather than door seal for “wm123”

Thanks for your fast reply. Is it just a matter of removing the front of the machine and everything being obvious once you have done that?

Thanks again.

[Stephen99]

Re: whiteknight cl787 tumble dryer not heating

Phidom wrote:There is another thermostat in the front low down in the machine which is not so easy to get at. The heater wires have plugs on the ends and are unplugged in the interior of the machine if the heater ever needs to be changed.

Thanks. The strangest thing is that the heater and two thermostats I could find all checked out ok so I put the back on, hoping that someone might post here. This morning we put some laundry in and it has heated the air. Perhaps one of the thermostats tripped yesterday and then cooled and reset? I read that some do reset and some do not. Are all the thermostats in this machine, ones that can be reset?

I did press the red button on the back yesterday but it didn’t do anything at the time. Do you have to press the button very hard? When I removed the back, it looked as though the stat would only move a couple off millimetres. Is that all? I was expecting it to pop out dramatically if tripped.

I read that if you open the door too early and the machine is hot, it can trip some stats. That did not happen yesterday. We put the load in and left it and left it and left it. When we realised the clothes had been in so long, we went to look and found that it was stone cold. No other laundry had been done that day, so it cannot be that the machine was too hot from a previous load either. What a mystery!

If I ever need to find the third thermostat in the future, what is the best way to get to it?

I bought the haynes washing machine book and it has a chapter about tumble dryers. It said that you ought to strip the machine done once every so often to remove lint which might otherwise become a fire hazard. Do the people here agree with that advice?

If so, how do I get the panel with the fan off? There is a bolt throught he middle of the fan but once I had removed the bolt, I still could not pull the fan off?

Thanks again.

[Stephen99]

Re: Ariston Margherita a1635 spider/bearing replacement

kwatt wrote:Hi Stephen,

We have a system to deal with scrap across Europe called WEEE that charges that manufacturers based on the weight of the products that they sell.

I wonder how long before they reduce or replace the concrete weights inside them?!

[Stephen99]

helo_75 wrote:no, yours is a sealed metal tank, spot welded from new

might be cheap for the manufacturer, not cheap for you

Thanks.

I can’t see how welding saves any money though, surely the alternative would be to bolt it together and bolts don’t cost that much.

So the manufacturer welds the tank shut with the spider inside. When the spider rots, there’s no way to replace it. What a money spinner for the manufacturer, instead of a new spider you have to buy a new machine!
Perhaps this is the real reason they weld it shut?

[Author]

Posts