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Hi Dave. Thanks for the quick reply. Is the plastic base, literally the inside of the machine base being plastic – so easy to spot when looking?
I’m tempted by the Beko Pro DEN48X20X. Relatively expensive for a lower end brand but the specs and performance look great.
Other than that, still looking.
Sorry, can’t seem to find an edit button. Was looking at the brands above but happy to take advice and reccomendations for others. 🙂
Re: Soap suds in external garden hose ?
😆 Sorry, perhaps ‘warm’ was a bit of a red herring.
I think it was warmer than cold as the hose is laid out over 60m and when using it the weather is usually warm, so is likely just ambient.
The plumbing is 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} ok – hot, cold and waste wise and no other cold taps have the same soap ish tinge when the machine is running.
I read that water out of the machine drum can be siphoned back when a hose is used if no check valves are installed, which would explain a rise in temperature – but I can’t believe a modern ish machine wouldn’t have internal check valves to stop this happening.
Shall have a closer look at the water in the bucket when the scenario next arises.
Re: Bosch sms50e02 drain problem assistance please
Penguin45 wrote:If the impellor can be moved by hand, select a programme and allow the drain pump to run without the cover briefly. Detritus will generally be thrown out. Replace cover and try properly.
Penguin45.
Hi Penguin.
Thanks for your help once more. 🙂
I think the main problem with these washers is the German methodology in building the damn things 😆
Everything is interlocked and snapped into everything else.
Probably a design to stop non trained personel such as myself from tinkering.
I disconnected the pipes, checked them all for blockages and found none.
The fact that I blew the wrong way down the drain pipe (against the non return valve) suggested that it was solidly blocked – which it wasn’t … doh.
I ended up removing the front metal panel and front base assembly to get to the drain pipe for the sump. This was removed and cleaned.
Not much muck at all came out and everything seems to be flowing freely, so not entirely sure what caused the initial problem now.
Just doing a rinse as a check and will run some cleaner through it to be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}.
Thanks again.
Re: Hotpoint WF860 loud thumping on fast spin help
Yep I looked at the struts mountings as per the post, and they are all present and correct.
Didn’t check there function at the time though…. doh.
We are just about to go out and look at white goods 🙂
Re: Hotpoint WF860 loud thumping on fast spin help
eek, thanks for the replies.
Pockets will be checked from now, and the kids are not going to use the washing machine any longer 😉
Back to the original problem, and the thumping on final spins is still there.
The drum appears to move very easily when empty – almost too easily.
This machine has two bottom dampers and two top springs.
Is it likely that the dampers could have worn out as such?
There is no trace of fluid on them, so if they are oil filled I don’t think they have leaked.
Re: Hotpoint WF860 loud thumping on fast spin help
Hi Jim.
When you say outer drum, do you mean the plastic casing, or the metal drum in which the clothes spin?
Fortunately neither seem damaged and I have ordered a paddle from the shop to replace the damaged one.
I’m not really bothered about being covered for anything with regards to the washer, as it will be binned when we have funds for another.
(but not before we replace the Hotpoint dryer, which is also a bag of the brown stuff)
Re: Hotpoint WF860 loud thumping on fast spin help
Thanks for the info. I’ll have a check after the test wash going at the mo.
I think the problem was caused by the below, which must have occured as a result of a paddle being loose at one side and lifting in the wash – thus allowing small items through into the filter.
In a household of 4 it is hard to get people to understand the theory of emptying pockets before washing… grrr
Re: Hotpoint CDT00 won’t stop and reverse.
😀 There is one thing, at least I know how to take a Hotpoint dryer apart, which seems to be a good thing 😆
After all the work it seems the noise is slowly coming back anyway, so maybe a new unit is required.
Not sure what else can be wrong with this thing. It seems to make an almost bearing like rumble after it has fully warmed up. It isn’t as loud as it was yet but it is getting there. Only does it in the shorter reverse cycle. (actually i’m sat listening to it and it could be panel resonance. Don’t fancy playing around with it powered on and uncovered though.)
I’ve just replaced the bearing and rear drum spiggot thing, so I am assuming something may be out of tolerance or alignment somewhere else.
The drum doesn’t seem to be rubbing on the rear and both fans were also replaced this morning. (The condenser one was slightly out of true but that was all that was wrong with either)
Re: Hotpoint CDT00 won’t stop and reverse.
ahh, so I am now concerned over nothing lol.
I’m sure it used to reverse for equal times before, maybe not.
Either way, it is now working and seems to be a hell of a lot quieter – at last.
If it (when) fails again we’ll be buying a Zanussi dryer.
No more of this Hotpoint rubbish.
Many thanks for your help 🙂
Re: Hotpoint CDT00 won’t stop and reverse.
Thanks for the reply.
I meant the timer and circuit board by PCB tbh, although like you say it could be just a wire.
It does seem a bit odd how it worked at first, then there was an electrical popping type noise as if a capacitor or similar had blown.
However, I have put half a load in and it is now running a cycle. Seems to be reversing now although it takes 2 to 3 minutes to reverse one direction and then the normal 20 seconds or so to reverse back.
Most odd but will keep an eye on it through this cycle.
Re: Hotpoint WF860P bearing replacement
iadom wrote:
Personally I would respectfully suggest that when the time comes you buy something that isn’t going to fail as disastrously as this machine has done and one that won’t cost you £100 every time you need an engineer. 😉Jim.
Jim, you missed a bit when quoting me 😉 ‘assuming it lasts at least another few years and if I hadn’t read up on here before’
The line was intended to be tongue in cheek as it won’t last a few more years. What I meant to say was that next time I will not be buying Hotpoint as they fall to bits. lol
Through this site alone I have learnt a lot about domestic appliances and I will be buying an ISE machine next time, probably the 5 and ideally the 10 if funds are available at the time.
Can’t fault the engineers work or the swift mannar it was handled. If the machine had 10 yrs under its belt previous to this then I’d be very happy and would purchase another one, but it didn’t so I won’t 😉
Re: Hotpoint WF860P bearing replacement
Follow up post to the engineers visit.
I wasn’t here but the OH was.
He was very descriptive about what he’d done, and had all the parts in the van.
Ended up replacing the rear drum half, drive belt, heating element and control panel.
The panel was ok before he started and lit up like a Christmas tree when he turned it back on. (It usually does this as a self test, but normally goes out – this time it didn’t)
So a lot more replaced than my £100 justifies (at retail price anyway 😉 ) and good, speedy and friendly service to boot.
All in all I am very happy with the whole afair, and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another Hotpoint machine – assuming it lasts at least another few years and if I hadn’t read up on here before 😉
Re: Hotpoint WF860P bearing replacement
Engineer is booked in for Wednesday afternoon.
tbh although the call took a while to answer, the woman who took it was professional and easy to deal with.
She did push the warranty and some cleaning fluids, but all in all it was well handled.
£99.98 down and the engineer can apparently fix 98{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of problems on site during the first visit.
If not they give 21 days to repair it, which would be a bit of a pain to say the least.
Still, £100 to repair it is a good price imo. (whether or not it should be failing after 3 yrs is another debate 😉 )
Will post again when the engineer has been, but thanks for the help so far 🙂
