[westfielder]

It’s fixed ….

Happy to report that the fridge freezer is working fine after the actions taken above and a new front panel (£45 on eBay)
Keeping temp – freezer -20c to -22c and Fridge +0.5c to +4c. They do both seem a little cold considering that the settings of -18c and 6c respectively – however, this could possibly be my thermometer.

Happy enough
Thanks for the help above chaps

More information that may be useful to others here:
https://maker.pro/forums/threads/whirlpool-side-by-side-american-style-fridge-freezer-too-hot-and-too-cold.298301/#post-1836296

[westfielder]

A little progress…..

Replaced the triacs and bridge rectifiers again.

Outcome:

The constant slow running of the compressor fan has now stopped…. Yaaaahh

The front panel supply voltage is now steady 5V

BUT

the front panel still ‘appears’ dead.

New front panel ordered – will update….

[westfielder]

Hi all,

I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000 Side By side FF
With help on this board and after replacing many components on the rear board 13 years ago it has been running well.

However…. with a new fault I am hoping that the symptoms may allow someone to point me in the right direction.
Not having a circuit diagram has been a hindrence.

Over last few years the front panel (inside in the fridge in my model) has been developing a display fault – it started with the LED display winking out briefly about twice a second. The mark/space of time for the ‘winking out’ changed slowly to 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} on 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} off twice a second to eventually become just flashing on briefly twice a second and finally off all the time. However, the default settings/functioning of the FF has been working fine so didn’t need to use the panel. However, can’t read any fault codes that might be there) I don’t think that the buttons are doing anything on the panel. It has 15v supply but I don’t know what supply voltage from the rear PCB should be.

Then…

A few weeks ago the house RCD tripped and the fridge bulb had blown (big black stain on bulb interior) and Relay RL3 was chattering randomly –
I took the board out and noticed a fried circuit track where it looped thinly either side of component hole that was unused.
I soldered in a bridge over the gap.
Restarted the FF. From then the freezer cools to -32c and warms up to -2c and down to -32 etc.. The fridge varies in temp but does go as low as 0c and high as +9c. Alongside this, when the compressor is not running we can heard a ticking noise and identified that the compressor fan was turning slowly about ?100 rpm
There’s no ice build up, the freezer to fridge air louvres are opening and closing when you switch the FF on, and do seem to open and close at different times. The evapourator fan seems fine as does the compressor fan, the bottom of the fridge is dust free and the rear panels are all on to allow proper cooling of the condensor motor.

I pulled the board again, checked all the capacitors (I have a slightly different board to many) and all the capacitors I had used from one brand have failed again. I took all the caps out and measured them.

C6, C16 should have been 068uF and were in the order of a few nF
C14, 26, 27,28 should have been 0.1uF and were 0,.6nF, 2nF, 10nF and 38nF respectively.

All other film and electrolytic capacitors were within tolerance.

I replaced all the faulty caps thinking that I had found the display problem (because Brodders has told me in the past that C6 and C16 relate to the front panel) and the cooling issues and fan issues but NONE had been cured 🙁

I checked the continuity to the front panel of all connectiions and they’re fine. Also checked the 2 electrolytics on the front board.

So I am at a bit of a loss. I have checked the zener diodes in situ and all have about 6v forward voltage drop

I cannot find a replacement board due to different connectors on my unit – so unless I can fix we will have to fork out for a new FF 🙁

Any guidance would really be appreciated.

Hoping the Brodders Baldrick still frequents the forum – he has been super helpful in the past.

Hopefully

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Interlock on all spares sites looks different to origina

That was really quick, thank you gentlemen.

After taking it out to check the number of pins I thought I might as well investigate the problem further. SWMBO has to slap the front of the machine to get it to start once the door is shut and she’s waited 10 seconds. This was verified with the interlock in my hand and gentle taps. So I stripped it down and the contacts inside were blackened and pitted. I cleaned them up with fine emery paper, reassembled, tested, adjusted the little grub screw for the bimetallic strip. Put back in the machine and all is well – working like new ?.
When (not ‘if’) it goes again I will purchase a 4 pin from the link you have so kindly provided.

24 years and still she goes on! (the machine – not the wife!)

Thank you again

Nick & Claire

[westfielder]

Re: New washing machine recommendations please

my Zanussi is now 24 years old and apart from now just needing a new interlock it’s and motor brushes been brilliant. 30 years ago I worked for Currys and sold Zanussis and they were by far the most reliable. Since joining with Electrolux I don’t think that’s the case any more – next machine we’ll buy will be a Miele. All the extended family have had other brands and all seem to get replaced after a few years. One of the family we about to replace a Hotpoint after 4 years but I was able to fix it by replacing a 56 pence capacitor on the control board. It seems crazy that they engineer a great big machine with lots of moving parts that can spin at 1000rpm and do a great mechanical job of washing clothes and let it all down and risk their reputation by using poor quality cheap electronic components to save just a few pence in the manufacturing process. Miele seems to have exactly the opposite philosophy. Machines are designed to last and designed to be repaired.

Just my 2-penneth

Nick 🙂

[westfielder]

Re: S20BRBB20-AG 8586 152 15000

Leonips

Old thread I know but just wanted to say thanks for your post. I had exactly the problem you described (Was one of the early capacitor changers (2008) and the FF has been fine until recently. The caps are all still working (once I put the correct ones in – Thanks Broders). I too had a broken slider in the diffuser. I fixed it exactly as you said above. I guess that due to sustained hot weather and possibly my young son leaving the door open, the mechanism iced up then when the activator tried to slide the slider it broke. I followed your instructions to the letter. It took 20 minutes of work plus some hours for glue/silicon to dry!. It was easy to do -others should give it a go!

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000
The freezer section started switching off – open the door and the freezer is off
Press the standby button on the panel and starts up oK
Ok for a few days
Heard bleeping – two dashes – the temp in the freezer is getting too high
Cycled standby button and it cooled down ok
Fast Freeze button without a wall cycle just causes the compressor fan and internal fan to stop after a short while. (maybe it’s trying to do a defrost cycle?)
Fast freeze button after a wall plug cycle or a standby button cycle cools the freezer non stop for 24 hours, then stops – the internal fan still runs to cool the fridge down but when the freezer starts warming up the compressor cooler/heat exchanger fan starts but the compressor doesn’t.
So basically, if it’s reset it cools fine but it won’t cool of its own accord when it needs to once the 1st cooling cycle after a reset has finished.
I think all the mechanical bits are working fine because after a wall plug cycle and fast freeze button it freezes down fine. There’s no ice on the freezing elements inside the freezer – no build up of water from defrosting. The heat exchanger is free from dust etc.

In the past I lots of clicking relay problems and have replaced many components on the control board a few years ago before any kits were available:

I have replaced:

All the capacitors: C1,C6, C16, C5, C7, C8, C14, C26, C27, C28
I replaced the big red relay.
I have replaced the 3 triacs
I have replaced the three bridge rectifiers
Any suggestions as to the current fault are very welcome!

Is BrodersBaldrick still lurking on here??

Thanks in anticipation

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Zanussi FL1032A won’t spin.. sort of

Replaced the brushes, they had worn down to nothing – works perfectly now

Thanks for your help and advice.

Nick
😆

[westfielder]

Re: Zanussi FL1032A won’t spin.. sort of

Hi Iadom,

Thanks again, I laid it on the left side having checked where the switch was. I will try blowing/sucking gently on the pressure switch with a second tube and a syringe and see if I can get the machine to spin.

Will order some brushes anyway – I have to go away for a week – leaving the wife without a washing machine 🙁

Will let you know what I fond next week.
Thanks again for your help

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Zanussi FL1032A won’t spin.. sort of

Wow, Iadon,

That was fast thanks for the reply.

I took them off and cleaned them and worked out what they were.

I had a look at the brushes. They look OK, the rinks look fine too.

A bit of misinformation on my loast post:
I have to go to work in 10 minutes so was putting it back together for the wife to use. 1st attempt it did do a spin

What was wrong above is that it does rotate the drum a few times before it spins.

When it wasn’t working and I rocked the machine it tried to instantly spin not rotate before instantly stopping again.

Because it’s been on its side and all water out of the pressure vessel – is that why it spun this time (i just did a spin not a wash)???

My gut feeling is that it’s still that it doesn’t know it’s empty as the pump keeps running.

Is it worth trying the brushes?

Nick

[westfielder]

Clicking has stopped!

The banks stopped a £2 transaction on my debit card on Thursday Grrrrr – loadsamoney in the account.

Very frustrated that the new capacitors would not arrive ’till this morning

Thought over the weekend I would try out the theory of the the suppressing/non suppressing caps being the problem and put back some of the originals that measured OK on the meter but to no avail.

The new non-suppressing capacitors arrived this morning and in anticipation I put them in before brekky – unfortunately 20 minutes later the clicking started as per usual. I was gutted!

I only had 20 minutes before having to leave for work. So I whipped out C2 (The electrolytic) it measured 900UF not the spec 1000, I put in a new one (measuring 1200 but that was all I had).

I also replaced the last 2 Triacs (Q1 and Q3). Put it back together, kissed SWMBO goodbye and went to work.

So far there has been no clicking.

Tomorrow I will list all the final components on the board and all the things I tried to get it working. I must have soldered and unsoldered C1 about 12 times. The tracks are starting to lift!

Will report in 2 weeks if all still well.

Thanks to broddersbaldrick for his guidance and encouragement to persevere and to all who have contributed on this forum. I hope my ramblings may help someone one day – do post if so!

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Nope – didn’t work with all the maplin caps, but I noticed that they’re all X2 suppression ones too. Ordered some like yours from RD – should be here tomorrow

Thanks again for your help

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Sorry – forgot to say they all came from Farnell

here’s a link to the 1uF

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1198302

Nick

[westfielder]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi John – thank you So so much for trying to help – very disheartened here :-(,

The Clicking is the red relay in the rear board.

I have posted pics of the board before my changes and after…

http://www.avwt78.dsl.pipex.com/fridge/

(Note – I have a .22uF cap in parallel with the 1uF C1 as the original was a 1.2uF

The capacitors used are:

1198302 PANASONIC
ECQU2A105ML 5 5 26 Jun 2009 Tracking number not available Complete £0.54 £2.70
Description: CAPACITOR, CLASS X2, 1UF, 275V; Application:Suppression; Capacitance:1000nF; Tolerance, Capacitance:± 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}; Series:ECQU; Voltage, Rating:250V ac; Capacitor Dielectric Type:Polyester; Case Style:Radial; Pitch, Lead:22.5mm;

1198297 PANASONIC
ECQU2A224ML 5 5 26 Jun 2009 Tracking number not available Complete £0.24 £1.20
Description: CAPACITOR, CLASS X2, 0.22UF, 275V; Application:Suppression; Capacitance:220nF; Tolerance, Capacitance:± 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}; Series:ECQU; Voltage, Rating:250V ac; Capacitor Dielectric Type:Polyester; Case Style:Radial; Pitch, Lead:15mm;

1198295 PANASONIC
ECQU2A104ML 5 5 26 Jun 2009 Tracking number not available Complete £0.176 £0.88
Description: CAPACITOR, CLASS X2, 0.1UF, 275V; Application:Suppression; Capacitance:100nF; Tolerance, Capacitance:± 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}; Series:ECQU; Voltage, Rating:250V ac; Capacitor Dielectric Type:Polyester; Case Style:Radial; Pitch, Lead:15mm;

1198301 PANASONIC
ECQU2A684ML 5 5 26 Jun 2009 Tracking number not available Complete £0.62 £3.10
Description: CAPACITOR, CLASS X2, 0.68UF, 275V; Application:Suppression; Capacitance:680nF; Tolerance, Capacitance:± 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}; Series:ECQU; Voltage, Rating:250V ac; Capacitor Dielectric Type:Polyester; Case Style:Radial; Pitch, Lead:22.5m
And here are the other components

4077300 5 In Stock 0.90 BRIDGE RECTIFIER, 1A, 600V; Phases, No. 1W06 MULTICOMP
1689373 5 In Stock 1.85 TRIAC 0.8A TO92; Thyristor/Triac Type:Tr Z0103MA 1AA2 STMICROELECTRONICS

1629045 TYCO ELECTRONICS
RT314024 1 1 26 Jun 2009 Tracking number not available Complete £2.10 £2.10
Description: RELAY, PCB, SPCO, 24VDC; Series:RT1; Relay Type:General Purpose; Voltage, Coil DC Nom:24V; Resistance, Coil:1.44kohm; Poles, No. of:1; Contact Configuration:SPCO; Mounting Type:PCB; Length / Height, External:15.7mm; Widt

I really really hope you can give me some ideas

Thanks again for your help

Nick

I have model S20D FSS10-A/D

Service number 8586 161 15000

[westfielder]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Now I’m really P*ssed off

I have replaced:

All the capacitors: C1,C6, C16, C5, C7, C8, C14, C26, C27, C28

I tried various values for C1 1uF, 1.22uF and 1,44uF

I replaced the big red relay.

I have replaced the 3 triacs and these took some finding!!

I have replaced the three bridge recifiers and they took even more finding!!

And I STILL have a clicking fridge freezer

I was looking at BroddersBaldrick’s post and he talks of a front board – I have no ice maker. Where is the front board – do I have one

Last hopes now 🙁

Nick

[Author]

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