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Hello,
If anybody remembers I had this candy alise 105 machine with broken timer. I fixed the timer but now(after few months), the bearings failed.
I know that it is not a job to be attempted because it takes so much effort to get into the drum. But I had time and I didnt see any problem in destroying the machine in the process and got back of the drum apart. It wasnt easy at all. But I got it open without the need for a can opener 🙂
Although there are few problems. First I got the outer bearing out in pieces, then I got the back cover (which was glued) loose. But the inner bearing didnt want to come out. So I broke it into pieces carefully. Anyhow, there wasnt anything else damaged than the bearings themselves which were already broken. Now the first problem is that the outer rings of outer bearing and the inner bearing got stuck in the pipe on back cover. I guess I take them off by hitting from opposide direction carefully? The second problem is that the inner bearing’s inner ring is stuck on the shaft. It is not moving at all. Is there any easy way to remove it? Third problem is that I obviously need bearing seal and new bearings. Finding the bearings seem to be an easy task but the seal is not so easy to find, can anybody give any tips or serial numbers?
After all the work spent fixing this machine from water pump to the timer, plus the time I wasted on opening the drum. I am determined to get this done. 🙂
Thanks,
EvrenRe: candy alise 105 changing bearings
How could we forget Yurtesen 😆
And we did warn you…
You’ll have to persevere with the bearings, getting the inner race off the shaft may prove to be a nightmare though.
Once (if) you’ve removed all the bits, let us know and I’ll see what I can do regards the bearings and seal.
Dave.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
You don’t give the full model number but I think the seal would be part number 6015542. One method of removing the remaining bearing races is to carefully drill 2 holes immediately behind them, 180 degrees apart (not too deep). You then use a drift or cold chisel inserted from the opposite side of the drum into your new holes and tap the bearings out.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
The easiest method of getting the inner bearing ring off the shaft is with the fast application of heat. You need an oxy-acetaline torch to quickly heat the ring causing it to expand without getting any heat into the shaft. If this is done properly the ring will almost fall off. Don’t bother trying a blow torch as this cannot supply the necessary heat quickly enough.
The second method is place the ring on a solid block of steel and carefully hit the ring with a sharp chisel. Because they are very hard and brittle you should be able to crack it, and then slide it off the shaft.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Welcome back Yurtsen.
Two problems to solve. The outer races can be removed with a stout steel bar (or “drift”) and a club hammer.
The race which is stuck on the shaft can be pulled with an automotive gear puller, if this is not easily available an angle grinder can be used to cut two flats on opposite sides of the race. Do NOT cut through. When the metal is very thin a cold chisel can be used to split the race into two parts.
Use extreme caution and full safety equipment. Do not cut onto the shaft, or the brass ring – instant scrap.To size the bearings you will need to measure the diameter of the shaft and the diameted of the housing, front and back. We can size them from there. Save the oil seal, it will have its size moulded into it.
Take your time and good luck.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
oxy-acetaline? angle grinders? chisel bashing?…whatever will Yurtesen make of all this?
Sounds like a bad day at Santa’s Toy Factory to me 🙄
What may be a simpler solution to his problem is simply a stout pair of ‘Mole’ grips and can of WD40, a firm but steady pair of hands and a lot of luck :rotfl:
Martin
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Penguin45 wrote:To size the bearings you will need to measure the diameter of the shaft and the diameted of the housing, front and back. We can size them from there. Save the oil seal, it will have its size moulded into it.
The seal has some text on it. It says “30 53/60 10/13 DRL FL” and on the other side it says “30 52 10/11^5” and a little text “ROLF”. Is it possible to find this seal? I called to 3 candy/hoover repair shops and they all said its not possible to find seal for this type of machine anymore.
About the inner race. It has some rings above and under it. are those part of the race and come out with it or ?
Here are the pictures of the inner race (well the pictures are almost identical)
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0810.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0811.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0812.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0813.JPG
So what are those rings?There seems to be many ways to remove the stuck bearing races. But how do I fit the new ones? Are they suppose to slide in easily? At least, is it going to be easier to fit them then taking the old ones out?
I tried to measure the bearings but since I still didnt remove the stuck parts it wasnt so accurate but here it goes
outer bearing inner bearing
inner race 17mm 19.5mm(about)
outer race 39mm(about) 46mm(about)I measured the inside of inner race and outside of outer race. Are these measurements even close to some standart sizes?
Thanks,
EvrenRe: candy alise 105 changing bearings
yurtesen wrote:. Is it possible to find this seal?
No problem to get a seal but your problem is the state of that drum shaft!
The inner race will be tricky to remove off that very badly pitted drum shaft to say the least. But your main concern is the drum shaft collar. That is damaged and pitted also beyond a viable re-useable state. Therefore you need a new drum shaft/inner drum unit to complete this job AT ALL.
My advice is BIN THE LOT MY FRIEND and buy another machine :lesson:
Martin
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Yurtsen,
Over several years of Candy service I’ve seen so many go that way. The inner bearing has totally collapsed leaving the inner shell welded to the drum shaft, you will not remove it without further damaging the brass ring that forms the seal. So you need a new drum as well as bearings.
It is an absolute pig of a job to do if you’re not experienced in doing them, but it seems you may have already sussed that out. The inner brass ring will already be damaged if it’s gotten that bad and, should you replace the bearings and seal, they will only last a few months as a general rule before failing again due to water ingress.
Given the cost of the drum and the seal (you can get the bearings cheap enough) I’d say give up to be honest, it’s not worth the heartache.
K.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
I just dont understand. The inner bearing was working
almost fine. The outer one went into pieces.There are several things I dont understand in your post. What is exactly the ‘brass ring which forms the seal’ ? I am little bit confused, there were no brass rings which seal the bearing, at least I didnt see them while removing the back of the drum? What do you mean by inner shell? The inner race?
I am a little bit confused here. I thought I can remove the inner race of the inner bearing by cutting it somehow, without damaging its surroundings.
Thanks,
EvrenRe: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Not to get it in that state it wasn’t 😉
It’s totally collapsed leaving the shell on the drum shaft, the bit you see that is channelled would be where the actual ball bearings ran, that is the remains of the inner bearing. The “smooth” bit you see below that is the area that the seal actually seals to, sorry I always refer to them that way as that’s what they were traditionally made from although looking again it may be a mild steel. But from the last picture you posted it is absolutely goosed and it will leak into the bearings, nothing surer.
Like I said, in my time as a Candy agent for 15 years or thereabouts I’ve seen more than my fair share of those and you would need a drum, seal and bearings at least to repair it. You would also need a tub seal as they compress over time and the old one almost never reseals properly, lifting the tank out to replace it later is a tad soul destroying to say the least.
For splitting the front plate off the tub you’ll need patience, a sharp flat blade screwdriver and plasters for your fingers as the edges are literally razor sharp. To do that you need the entire tub group lifted out and the frame off etc., it’s an almost total stripdown of the machine to do it. With experience a minimum of two hours with two able bodies that know what they’re about, without experience I’d say at least a day to do it.
K.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Yurtesen doesn’t give up does he? The brass ring kwatt refers to is the damaged drum shaft collar that I refer to. It may be either brass, or stainless steel or whatever, but its had it however you want to word it.
Sorry Yurtesen 😥
Martin
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
To clarify…
The bit marked as the drum seal is goosed and is not repair or replaceable other than a replacement drum.
K.
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
Thanks, now I understand what is the seal you are talking about 🙂 I think it was a little bit dirty somehow, but take a look at the pictures after I wiped it with paper.
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0818.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0820.JPGThe pictures are not so good but I see no damage where the seal is suppose to be touching. It is very smooth.
I think the reason is that the inner bearing was still intact that the drum seal didnt hit around the hole while turning etc. Only the outher bearing was in pieces although the inner bearing was making noises like it wont last long.
Do you still think that drum cant be used? I think it looks good enough that I can try my chance.
What is the purpose of these rings marked by arrows in this picture?
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0813ex.JPG
Are they a part of the bearing or ? Am I allowed to destroy them? 🙂
From where I can get them if I destroy and they are not part of the bearing?Evren
PS. Never give up, never surrender 😉
Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings
yurtesen wrote:Thanks, now I understand what is the seal you are talking about 🙂 I think it was a little bit dirty somehow, but take a look at the pictures after I wiped it with paper.
Nope, looks goosed to me, there is wear there and its extremely likely to have been damaged. It’s one of those things that simply HAS to be perfect or it will fail again. And spinning something around at over 1000rpm tends to make them pretty smooth. 😉
yurtesen wrote:The pictures are not so good but I see no damage where the seal is suppose to be touching. It is very smooth.
They always generally are, it doesn’t take much at all to render them useless, any pitting or scoring and it’s game over. In your pictures you can just see the irregularities in the seal.
yurtesen wrote:I think the reason is that the inner bearing was still intact that the drum seal didnt hit around the hole while turning etc. Only the outher bearing was in pieces although the inner bearing was making noises like it wont last long.
That shell you see there is from the inner bearing! For the back bearing to fail water has to get to it, the only way that can happen is if it goes through the front, or inner, bearing. You can clearly see on the drum shaft residual water and detergent from your photos so water was in there, no doubt, so the front bearing was well and truly bust.
For the shell to be left on the shaft like that it would have been heated due to friction and almost welded itself into place, so it was collapsed. Getting them off when they’re in that condition is difficult at best, nigh on impossible without causing damage to the shaft.
yurtesen wrote:Do you still think that drum cant be used? I think it looks good enough that I can try my chance.
I wouldn’t chance it as I would lay money that it will fail again and won’t last that long.
yurtesen wrote:What is the purpose of these rings marked by arrows in this picture?
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0813ex.JPG
Are they a part of the bearing or ? Am I allowed to destroy them? 🙂
From where I can get them if I destroy and they are not part of the bearing?They are part of the front bearing to retain the grease shields that have no doubt disintegrated as they often do.
Honestly Evren, you’re now at the point of giving up and scrapping the machine or giving in and buying a new drum along with the other bits to put it right. If you replace the bearings with the drum shaft in that condition I’d be surprised to see it lasting six months to a year before failing again.
K.
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