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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I have finally got around to fixing the problem I had with the clicking from the front panel when trying to dispense ice or water. Since the original fault showed up, the clicking had also appeared on the main board when the pump/compressor was coming on.
The main board (at the back of the machine):
This is really much easier than the front. The board is a single sided affair (circuit tracks on the backside only) so was much easier to de-solder. I used a de-solder pump and an 18W iron.
The capacitors I used were bought from Farnell and I had none of the reported problems with fitting. Everything went on the front side of the board and there was only the small matter of bending some of the leads since the pitch between the wires on the replacement caps was smaller than the originals. The caps from Farnell had plenty of spare wire length so this was not aproblem. The ones I used are as follows;
C1 – http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/produc … KU=1198302
C5/6/7/8 – http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/produc … KU=1198297
C26/27/28 – http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/produc … KU=1198295
All of these had to be bought in 5 part bags but the cost is so low it is not really a problem, plus it is only the 1uF that is the single part needed.The front panel (the one that is part of the water and ice unit):
This was much harder to do. The sizing of the original capacitors and the limited space made this much harder to do. The electrolytic caps were fine but the plastic ones were much harder.
Sourcing anything that was close to the originals (to remove the need to locate capacitors on flying leads) was hard. The closest I came to this was on Mouser. I ordered the 0.68uF and 0.47uF caps from them but only actually used the 0.68. All of these were bigger in length and diameter. I managed to fit the 0.68uF in with some sleeving to protect the wires but the 0.47uF were just way to big. There are a couple of different manufacturers but they are all around the same sizes. This may not be a surprise, being bigger than the originals, since the originals are such poor quality. Maybe this is related.
The 0.68uF I used was http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta … IVHoWX8{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3d
The real issue here is that they come from the US and there is a ridiculous postage charge. I gave up searching for something that would fit in the UK. I didn’t check if the 0.68uF was also wired in parallel as I think I’ve taken the panel apart enough times……. Also, maybe one of the Farnell type 0.68uF would fit on it’s side with the single 1.5uF replacement for the three 0.47uFs.Three 0.47uF caps are all wired in parallel. Some basic thought indicated that I could get a 1.5uF and fit that. The 1.5uF cap from Farnell will fit if you add some extension wires and lay the cap on its side. Depending on your installation, you may need to trim some of the plastic strengthening spars on the panel. I didn’t mind doing this as I doubt my change was making such a change to the panel.
The de-soldering was a little difficult as this is a double sided PCB. My 18W iron was a little under powered (or just very old) but a 25W from Maplin did the trick.
Now the new caps are in place I have no problems with the ice or water. In the past, it seemed to depend on how many front panel leds were on. I can now have those max’d out, have the light switched on and be dispensing water and ice with no clicking or pulsing.
All in all, a pretty good fix for a ridiculous fault. Almost £400 for about £15 worth of parts (full retail) and about 1-2hrs labour. Whirlpool should hang their heads in shame.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Guys,
I have a whirlpool american fridge freezer and need your help please. Basically the fridge is set to the highest temperture possible and is freezing soft items and veg. The ice maker is making about 6 ice cubes and stops. Its about 2 years old and there are no noises (apart from normal) and not sure how to fix. As per everyone else I dont want to pay a couple of hundred knicker out if I could fix it myself. I’m a decent enough hand in the auld DIY and electronics but need all the advice on this as possible.
If anyone has any ideas they are greatly welcome or indeed if you need more info let me know ASAP.
Thanks in advance,rabc
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Dave_Conway wrote:It could be any number of things I’m afraid Sam.
If you could post the model number it would help us advise you a little better as Whirlpool have many versions of their US fridges.
Check inside the fridge for the rating plate, it’ll be on there 😉
Dave.
Why you are afraid Dave? By the way, thanks for the information that you have been given about the rating plate.
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4396710Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Good staff
I have an American model Whirlpool – s20brsb21-A / G
turn the refrigerator and it is always the flashing lights of the panel someone can help me in the problem
thanksRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well after fixing the rear board I have another failure. This time the water dispenser stopped working and then the temp went down so more wasted food!
Last resort time – have managed to get the front PCB out of the appliance (a Smeg branded PITA). From descriptions, it seems Smeg may have some different capacitors on their board – certainly the access to it is different to the regular Whirlpool.
Anyway – I am trying to source some replacement capacitors, I’ve found some but am struggling to find:
1) 3 x 250v 1.70 MKP .68/10 axial type
2) 1 x 250v 1.70 MKP .33/10 axial type
3) 4 x 250 3u – not much writing on these but they are squarish blocks about 1cm in size. guessing 3uf 250v
Can’t seem to find at the usual places (maplin/rs/bobsbitsbox) so any ideas please let me know. Also, if there is a way to test capacitors using a multimeter or similar that would be helpful – clearly I’m not an electrician but I can use a soldering iron 🙂Thanks
AdamRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Try Farnells
It’s a bit too late to look up part number for you but I’m looking to change the caps on the front board of my Whirlpool. Unlike the rear board the components on the front board are height restricted to about 10mm. If you have the same issues on your board you meed to be looking for axial film capacitors. For the rear board the radial caps posted above will be ok. I haven’t found any 250 or 275volt axial caps of the correct value but i believe 400 volt cap will be ok.
Hope this helps
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi,
This is my first post to this forum.
I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread – I’m sure like me it has resulted in much money not being wasted on new boards.
I had the usual problems develop on my S20B RWW20, first the ice dispensor stopped, then sputtering water. When the relays started chattering, I found this thread and ordered (from eBay – £3.24 inc postage) the four .22uf for the rear board and the 6.8v 1000uf electrolytic for the front board. The very day after they arrived, I came downstairs to find the compressor had stopped and the warning light was on – after hastly arranging some time off of work I changed the capacitors listed above. The compressor started working, the ice dispensor started working and the water stopped sputtering! However, to my small surprise, the red relay continued to chatter.
I thought I would try Ozzy1’s suggestion of piggy backing another capacitor across C1 on the rear board. The only capacitor to hand was a .47uf 250v DC. However this stopped the chattering. The only thing not working at this stage was the front panel lights flashed when dispensing water. Any ideas as to which capacitor this might be?
Two weeks passed. Unfortunately, the red relay has started chattering again. I’m pinning my hopes on my 250vDC capacitor having failed and so have just bought a 1uf 275vAC capacitor from Maplin. It was £3.02 on its own, but it is a very impressive looking beast: http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=98166
It is a “Metallised Paper RFI Class X2” Capacitor, whatever that is 😕
My plan is to replace both the original C1 and its piggyback friend with this one good capacitor. I will let you know if that works.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
When I opened the rear PCB ‘tupperware’ box, the reason for the relays starting to chatter again was quite clear – -the ‘piggy back’ capacitor had obviously failed with strange stuff bubbling out of each end of it!
I replaced this with the 1uf 275vAC Capacitor decribed in the previous post. As with my other ‘fixes’ there was a disconcerting delay of about ten/fifteen miniutes before the compressor started up; does anyone know what that might be? The new capacitor has stopped the chattering – I hope I get more than two weeks of life out of this one.
Any thoughts as to my question above concering which front board capacitor may be causing the front panel light to flash when dispensing ice or water? It is the only remaining fault (at the moment :wink:) on the appliance.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Same clackety problem here – could I ask for a little help please?
I have model S20D FSS10-A/D
Service number 8586 161 15000
I get the clacketing sound as above – open door it stops.
I opened the back and thought it was the fan cooling the compressor as it was juddering or slow running but would suddely speed up when the noise stopped. But after reading above checked further. I opened the tupperware box to find a red relay clacking. I assume this drives the fan I am hoping that someone could please tell me which capacitor to change.I put a picture of the board here
http://www.avwt78.dsl.pipex.com/fridge/
Many thanks in advance
Kind Regards
Nick
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I have a Whirlpool American style fridge freezer, model # S20B RSS31 A/G. other numbers are 8586151 15010 and 110328 039407.
I have read through this entire thread but am not sure whether to change the capacitors or to change one or both boards to solve my problems – please can someone advise me as to what to do?
1. Beeps every few minutes (like the door is open but it’s not) and the display flashes CF. The water filter has been changed and is green, but this problem continues.
2. Lots of clicking noises all the time
3. Ice maker not working properly
4. Water dispenser only flows properly if you open the fridge door while you do it.Many thanks for your help,
NicRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
When I put mine back together after the taskks listed above, I got the bleeping, red light flashing and CF on the display and the Compressor Fan not working.
I opened the control box one of my solder joints on my new Capacitor C1 had come apart. Once fixed, the above symptoms disappeared.
This did help prove that C1 is the capacitor that supports the RED relay which controls the fan.I have found that since replacing C1 with the 1uF maplin part that the clacketing was still there. However as I stated above I was going to replace the other capacitors. I had to send the better half to Maplins to buy them, but by the time she got back I had proved that it’s C1 that is the Fan one I don’t have to. AND as time goes on the clicking is becoming much reduced – Less often and quieter but still happening.
I wondered if it was the fact that it was 1uF and the original was 1.2uF so I soldered a piggy back .22uF capacitor in parallel with C1 to make 1.22uF. This did not make any difference.
The clicking is still there and the fan still runs slow when the clicking is happening and full speed when it’s not and off when it’s not needed. The clicking is still not as bad as when I started. So I will see how things go over the next few days.
Nic Digby I would suggest that you open the control tupperware box (be very careful if you do this without unplugging) and see which relay is clicking. I would guess that you have 2 problems – one for the ice and one for the compressor fan. I would start by replacing C1 first to fix the CF problem then work on the ice one – don’t know which capacitor that one is though.
Good Luck
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well, my Whirlpool fridge is doing the rapid-clicking from the front panel. No other problems (yet!) as water and ice both seem to be working.
Looks like I need a new control panel (or maybe two) – luckily (I thought) I’ve got the 8 year parts warranty.
Phoned up Whirlpool – they want £120 call out charge to send someone out to have a look.:x
Thing is, I know that the company they use locally charge £49.50 call out as they came to fix my oven last week. So Whirlpool are skimming at least £70 straight off the top for their own faulty product! Bunch of profiteering barstewards! 👿
Might have to go and get a soldering iron and some capacitors from somewhere (whanks to the info on this thread)Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
As another unhappy Whirlpool customer what I’m surprised about is that no enterprising engineers have stepped up to the plate and offered a repair service.
It seems the ‘Whirlpool people’ are happy to replace £300 pcb boards, but those with the technical know-how seem to able to repair the boards for under £25 worth of bits and probably a couple of hours labour.
I’ve tried my local yellow pages and none of the engineers seem interested but I can’t help thinking that theres a gold mine ready to be tapped by repairing Whirlpools for somewhere in the region of £150 all in, considering how many units are under the Whirlpool umbrella I’d expect the enterprising engineer that takes this up to be a busy chap.And I’m not even after any commission for the idea…. 😆
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Update:
Nearly a week on and so far no clicking.
BIG Thanks to all on this thread and your input
Total cost to fix my clicking problem £3.61
Nick
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
My whirlpool fridge freezer is sevice no’s.
8539 658 15000
11 0541 022143Do i have to change front and rear boards – or just the rear board to cure my problem.
Freezer alarm flashing and beeping because freezer keeps cooling down and fridge is not workng. Motor running continually unless either door is opened then it stops. Don’t have problem with clicking noises or problem with water dispensing.
After reading all threads have changed all capacitators on rear board as previously suggested,defrosted freezer and totally cleaned underneath but problem is still same.
Do have to change both rear and front boards or just rear board.
Geoff
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