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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
With model number 8586 152 15010 – 11 030 019041 do I need both a front and rear board?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
That would very much depends on the problem/s with it.
K.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
The fault is a flashing and clicking front panel. Capacitors on rear board have been changed last week. Today the compressor won’t work unless the front board is disconnected. Freezer functions perfectly with the front board disconnected (although I can change any settings or use ice or water) temperatures in both fridge and freezer are constant and correct.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
This is my first post to this thread since November 2009 (page 36). I had experienced the usual chattering type of problems, replaced all the capacitors, and then both boards.
Well, both the new boards are doing fine – I have not had any more ‘electronic’ type failures.
However, the cold water dispenser is dripping. I’m guessing the electronicaly controlled valve is just ‘furred up’ with limescale or similar and and a good clean, or new washer if appropriate, will get it going again.
But where is it?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi all,
This is my first post on this forum, and I’m hoping someone here can help me. I ‘inherited’ a Whirlpool fridge/freezer when I bought my house.It’s an S20D RSS33A/G and the Service Codes are 8586 158 15020 and 110427018566.
It worked OK for a while, but then started to behave oddly. Its symptoms included:
1. Occasionally (every couple of months or so), the water dispenser stops working for a few days, then starts again.
2. Ice-making seems to work better some of the time than other times.
3. The bottom (veg?) food container sometimes ices up so it’s hard to open, and freezes the contents. However, much of the time it’s fine.
4. Occasionally, the front panel display shows — — where the temperatures should be, and a warning triangle is displayed. This is accompanied by a bleeping audible warning. If I switch the unit off at the wall, wait 10sec and switch it back on, it works normally again, the temperature display returns instantly back to normal. This has happened a number of times now, but sometimes it’ll work fine for a couple of months between incidents.
In an effort to sort it out, I ordered the ‘repair kit’ for the back control board, and changed all the C’s. Since then, (about a month now) I’ve had another instance of fault ‘4’ in my list, so clearly I haven’t fixed all the problems, if any.
I’ve not heard any of the clicking relays, or had the ‘pulsing water’ described by others.
Any suggestions – or should I just throw the damn thing away!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi guys, Ive just bought a 2nd hand whirlpool american fridge freezer and the freezer works fine but fridge isn’t keeping its temp except in the bottom. Its model number SB540W or at least thats what the label says although Im sure it should be a few more digits. Does anyone know what could be causing the problem? The lady I bought it from did say she had had whirlpool engineer out but she couldn’t remember what it was called, something to do with with condenser?? He had quoted £80 plus fitting dunno if that helps. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated 🙂
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi All
My Whirlpool American style fridge freezer broke down a couple of weeks ago – much reported flashing — and general failure to keep anything cold at all. Naturally this happened whilst I was away on business resulting in my wife having to use the wine coolers as a fridge.
I followed the advice on this forum and bought the capacitor kit from ukwhitegoods and then proceeded to have a go at the repair and have some feedback for those considering it:
1.Test the relays and capacitors whilst you have the board out – I found that the main compressor relay had failed which was the main reason for it dying. I had to buy a new one from RS components and the local store didn’t have any so I drove to the distribution centre which had a bucket load in stock – 1.99 each
2.5 out of the 9 capacitors had failed; I went ahead and replaced the lot.
3.My puny soldering iron which I use for microelectronics bits and pieces didn’t have the grunt to de-solder the relay which has quite a large amount of solder as there is a fair bit of current being switched – I had to grab one with a bit more grunt and ended up using a 60W iron to do so.
4.When testing the relays be aware of the polarity of the test power supply and the relays – if you get it wrong the diodes used to protect the circuitry end up shorting your test power supply (and you get some pretty sparks or fry something else).
5.The ice maker had failed about 2 years ago, this repair also magically bought it to life
6.This is not a hard repair – the board uses simple through hole construction and the pads are generous – you need to take a little time and have some patience but I would say it should be do-able by most people.
The repair has been a resounding success and I am now considered some sort of genius by the better half – I saw this as a gamble – it was worth spending the time and less than £15 rather than £1500 on a new unit – nothing ventured nothing gained.
Best of luck if you are looking to do this yourself – and many thanks to all those kind souls who contributed to this forum and gave me an idea of where to start.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000
The freezer section started switching off – open the door and the freezer is off
Press the standby button on the panel and starts up oK
Ok for a few days
Heard bleeping – two dashes – the temp in the freezer is getting too high
Cycled standby button and it cooled down ok
Fast Freeze button without a wall cycle just causes the compressor fan and internal fan to stop after a short while. (maybe it’s trying to do a defrost cycle?)
Fast freeze button after a wall plug cycle or a standby button cycle cools the freezer non stop for 24 hours, then stops – the internal fan still runs to cool the fridge down but when the freezer starts warming up the compressor cooler/heat exchanger fan starts but the compressor doesn’t.
So basically, if it’s reset it cools fine but it won’t cool of its own accord when it needs to once the 1st cooling cycle after a reset has finished.
I think all the mechanical bits are working fine because after a wall plug cycle and fast freeze button it freezes down fine. There’s no ice on the freezing elements inside the freezer – no build up of water from defrosting. The heat exchanger is free from dust etc.In the past I lots of clicking relay problems and have replaced many components on the control board a few years ago before any kits were available:
I have replaced:
All the capacitors: C1,C6, C16, C5, C7, C8, C14, C26, C27, C28
I replaced the big red relay.
I have replaced the 3 triacs
I have replaced the three bridge rectifiers
Any suggestions as to the current fault are very welcome!Is BrodersBaldrick still lurking on here??
Thanks in anticipation
Nick
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi all
My friend have brought a Whirlpool fridge in 2004 and after one year the user display started flicker. The unit was fixed under the warranty and all was OK.
Now the warranty is expired and the problem is back 🙁
It started 3-4 months ago, the display flickers but everything seems to work OK.
The light in the ice delivery opening flashes to the beat of the user display when tapping ice.
I have read the in the forum I may have to replace the PCB’s, and now my question is, where do I start, do I need replacement for both the PCB’s and where can I buy the parts at a fair price?Id numbers# 8586 166 01000 / 11 0239 013681
Regards
LarsRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Having problems with our whirlpool American refrigerator; initially had alarm going with ‘–‘ on freezer display but fridge was ok. Hubby took panel off & disconnected control board. When he reconnected it – without changing anything – we now have ‘–‘ on both displays or have freezer on but no fridge & no water. Any ideas very grateful as love my American FF but don’t have £1200 to buy another one at present.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Please keep it to one post on one thread, copying and pasting all over the place will only annoy people.
The double dash that you see, “–” is a fault code telling you that the freezer is too warm.
There can be a number of things that will cause that to happen.
Fault code list for the Whirlpool side by sides is here: http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/faul … codes.html
K.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
kwatt wrote:Please keep it to one post on one thread, copying and pasting all over the place will only annoy people.
K.
What are you talking about?
Please help my question first before answer down the tread!!!
/LRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hello, I’m having issues with my whirlpool S20E. It started clicking and flashing a while ago when using the water dispenser which I got the capacitor kit for but it didn’t make any difference. It has got progressively worse and started clicking when opening the fridge and now has a click at any time which can be stopped by turning it off and on again.
All I can really say is the clicking comes from the buzzer BZ1 and the only voltages present is 4.5 volts on the orange and white wire on the 3 wire connector and 240 volts coming in on brown and blue from the other side. The front board is 04TP800210G SWR2 with box 1 x’ed out.
I have turned the unit back on again and it alarmed to say freezer is too hot and it’s not clicking 😕 but once the display is back to normal it clicks again!!!!!!!!!!
If it’s a matter of changing capacitors I’m more than capable of doing any soldering. I just don’t know where to start.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well it’s been a week now and no replies of any kind I’m guessing this thread isn’t being monitored by anyone in the know any more?
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