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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Aaanyway… remember when I fixed my fridge and said I’d report back with thanks or tantrums? Well…
It’s been working for about 8 hours, and has got nice and cold, but I’m stood here now and the freezer is defrosting already. It wa only a tiny bit iced up, a thin coat of frost on the ice container, but that’s wet now and the unit is silent, no compressor sound. There is a noticeable dripping sound at the back of the freezer, surely it couldn’t be that iced up already?
Aaaand, now it’s buzzed into life again! I guess I never paid attention to it’s normal operation when it worked, so now I can’t remember of this is right!
We’ll see what the morning brings.
Re: Samsung SRS615DP Fridge/Freezer LCD panel replacement
Hi
What model is your fridge ?Is it a american side by side ?.
Bryan
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well, I’m no expert but regarding unplugging the front module whilst on, yes 240v is dangerous and no, I don’t know why would you’d need to…
Nevertheless, it should be pretty safe because the board is sandwiched between 2 bits of plastic and of course the connectors are plastic, so… altho it’s probably still best avoided… I would think you could remove the frot board pretty safely.
I don’t know, just my opinion.
Ok… I put the 6.3v in C2. No change.
Today I bought I bought a desoldering iron/pump and removed the relay, also tidying up some other bits of soldering. Fitted new relay and put tidy solder on C1.
Now, a change. I turn out to a normal display -19 and 3 with no faults but absolute silence, not even the little internal freezer fan. After a few minutes, the freezer display shows CF and much beeping. Doh!
So out again… Took the 6.3v out of C2 and put the new 10v in it’s place, double checked everything, bit more solder on some of the relay pins.
Turned on, and buzzzzzz compressor straight on. Freezer temp display flashing — but I expect that is right as it’s at room temp. 20 mons have passed and the comp is still running, both fans have kicked in and the freezer is getting colder. This seems great, but of course this happened the other day after doing just C1, C5 and C7 and that only lasted about 4 hours before going back to the faulty status.
As I sit now, the relay makes a click once every few minutes, I assume while doing it’s job. It seemed quieter tho, maybe it’s a different relay.
I’ll watch today and report back with thanks or tantrums! 😉
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks again for help guys. I will buy a solder pump to sort the relay. It is the orange one – tho mine isn’t actually orange, the replacement I’ve bought is. It’s not clicking faultily, it’s just doing an occasional single click just before a fan starts or stops… presumably correct behaviour?
To recap, I’ve so far replaced… C1, C2, C5,6,7,8, and C26,27,28. They were all as advised here. C1 is a 1uF that looks just like the one that came out, and is so far the only one that fit perfectly. Rs item 190-8450. Altho I just did some searching and found 210-8825 which seems the same, is one wrong or right?
I’ve got a little confused about some of what I’ve read, did someone mention putting 2 1uF caps in the place of C1 on the rear board? Or was that only about the front board?
So… I just tried a 6.3v in C2 and there appears to be no change so far. I turn it on and the little freezer fan starts first, along with — on the freezer gauge. A few minutes later and the big fan pointing at the compressor starts. The freezer is 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} ice free so I can’t see any reason it should want to defrost unless there is a problem.
Is there a warm up time before the compressor kicks in, or should it turn on immediately if the thermostat says the temp does not match the gauge?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Oh dear…. more disappointment…
I replaced C2 with a new 10v, and absolutely no change. I bought the relay too, but cannot replace it – I can’t figure out how to remove the old one with 8 pins when I can only heat one bit of solder at a time! Maybe that’s the remaining problem – or maybe its the front board? The relay does click when I turn the fridge on, use the standby button etc so I assume thats it operating?
Could I try C2 with a 6.3v? I think I may as well try it before I figure out how to change the relay and order front board parts – which looks even more complicated for a soldering novice!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Ahhhh.. the plot thickens. I wonder if my C2 is some kind of factory error and should have been 6.3v all along!? I have ordered both 10v and 6.3v replacements, along with the compressor relay.
Is it definitely best to replace the 10v with 10v, or is it safe to try changing to 6.3v? If so, which way round is best, i.e. try 10v and see if it works, if not try 6.3v, or the other way? So many factors!
I never quite knew what other people meant when they referred to flickering lights on the front panel, but I think I just found out…. while I wait for the next bits, I just replaced the board again, on the off chance it might decide to work. While there was no change with the compressor – the front lights did a little flicker (specifically the fridge temp gauge) and made a little chirrup sound. Ohhhhhhh no… not more to do!
RS were out of stock so I ordered the exact same bits (same manufacturer even) from Farnell at lower cost and with free postage. Fingers crossed for tomorrow morning!
Thanks again for your valuable expertise Brodders. I had an amusing experience in the local electrical store when asking for a 1000uF capacitor. “Whaaaaaaat!? 1000!? Surely not, whats it from, who told you that, that can’t be right, 1000!?”…. along with a knowing smirk when I told him I read on the internet…. “Oh no, you won’t get one of those” he said. Ha.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks again for the C2 info. Are you saying the existing cap in C2 is wrong and to get one rated 6.3v cos mine says 10v on it. It’s 1000uF, 10v and 85deg, does that sound right?
RS part 571-117 is 6.3v and 628-3784 is 10v… any chance I’ve stumbled my way onto the right one with one of those?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks broddersbaldrick, you are a star as always. I never noticed the talk of C2 for some reason despite reading the whole thread. I think my eyes went…. or it was the tricky reading on my iPhone. However I did say in my post that altho there was no space to do C8 or C6 initially, I did realise the next day that I could fit them on the other side and did them along with 26, 27 and 28.
Currently dismantling record players to search for a C2 replacement…. Maplin first thing tomorrow might be a better plan.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Just a further update to my story… After posting I took the rear board out again, tidied up some of the soldering and double checked all joins. I swapped over C5 and C7 just incase the new ones had faults and put back in.
It seemed no different but I left I turned on a while to test it, then suddenly after 10 minutes the compressor buzzed into life and started cooling it. I’ve left it a couple of hours and it got really cold. So I turned it off just for a moment to put the back plate back on and pushed it into position. Turned back on and no sound at all, no compressor, no rear panel fan, no freezer fan. Waited a bit and the little freezer fan came on, but nothing else yet.
What does this imply? The capacitors and relays seem ok because it keeps working intermittenly. Whilst it was working I noticed it being pretty warm down the back-bottom, although I think that is the whole point of a fridge isn’t it?
As I write, the big fan at the back has turned
on, but still no compressor buzz. Am I being impatient? Is it normal for a working fridge to sit there quietly sometimes without the compressor running? How long is too long? What is the firing order? Does the compressor stay off if the rear fan is on cooling the “pot” or whatever you cool the thing with the coolant in?I have noticed the rear board relays making the ocassional click. Obviously this is normal when using standby button, and it’s not doing the old repetetive chattering, but it ocassionally does a quick machine gun noise click-click-click-click-click very short but fast.
Hi all, I’ve been reading this thread for the last week to try and fix my Whirlpool side by side – S20B RSB21-A/G and have to give in and post to request help! Code is 8586 151 15000.
It started clicking last year but as it seemed to be related to the water and we didn’t have it plumbed in, it wasn’t too much of a problem. It was just the 20 seconds of clicking a few times a day, which I thought was the valve related to water dispenser but has turned out to be the relay. I did briefly get it plumbed in to try and check it and the water worked, but spurted.
Last week I found it to be losing its cool, i.e raising temperature. The freezer display flashed — with the warning triangle. The fridge display said 3 still, but was no longer cold.
First of all, I took the freezer contents out and removed the inside back to check for ice. There was none, and after turning off over night the bottom of the freezer was only a little bit wet, so I don’t think there was much ice build up.
After much searching I found this thread, and took the rear board to a local TV repair to ask him to test and swap C5 and C7. They apparently tested as good, but when I replaced the rear board there was no change.
I ordered the set of 3x 0.1uF, 4x 0.22uF and 1x 1uF from RS and over the weekend I have fitted them. They are the model numbers recommended earlier in this thread (190-8551, 8539 and 8450). The big 1uF fits perfectly, the others are too wide so at first I just replaced the 1uF and C5 and C7 of the 0.22uF capacitors.
I plugged the board back in and immediately I could tell the repair had worked. In addition to the ever present sound of the small fan inside the freezer there was another “fridge buzz” that I assume was the compressor. Testing the ice maker and water shows no sign of clicking and both working. The temperature started to drop and altho the freezer display showed — at first, over a couple of hours it chilled and the vodka went frosty, the display it showed -19 and acted normally.
I kept checking it for a few hours and was disappointed to find after only about 3 hours the freezer (and therefore fridge) were warming up again and I could not hear the compressor! How could it work and then stop? I’m pretty sure the new caps were of the correct rating, but is there any way something has happened with them that has let through too much or not enough voltage and blown something further down the line? The water dispenser and ice maker are still operating, that is they buzz when pressed, but as I have no water connected there is no ice or water. However I assume this means the caps in C5 and C7 are working, and I assume also the relay is working – or could it have seized up to allow the water dispenser to work but prevent the compressor? (I think thats the point of the relay in question isn’t it? If I’ve read this thread right….)
This morning I removed the board again and replaced the other 0.22uF and the 3x 0.1uF capacitors by putting them on the back of the board. Plugged in and no change. Water and ice seem fine, but no compressor noise and no cooling.
Whats next!? I looked at the front board and none of the caps or relays look physically faulty, but as I’m not too skilled in soldering, it looks a bit more daunting than the rear board! Do my symptoms indicate further replacement parts are needed?
Please help experts! 🙂
RichRe: Being charged for training
So guys its as clear as mud…..my contract doesnt mention paying for training..ive checked……it does say they can take any money they need from my final wage …..this is seperate contract they want me to sign before they will get me reassessed…..if its in my contract cant see why they want me to sign something else…..if I dont sign then I cant work for them……and if i do it ties me to them for 3 years….where can i get actual legal advice?
Re: Being charged for training
Thanks for oppinion….I cant see myself being there for another 3 years….never been one to stay at a company more than 5 years thats my record……would it be unfair to say that they have had 2 years for free already….ill happily sign for an extra year?…..last time I was self employed and paid for my own assessment…..does that sound unreasonable???? anyone got some real legal facts????? how can a company charge you for training to do a job for them?
