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    Update:

    I have checked the drain, released about 2L of water, opened it fully, it is not blocked. Tilted the machine forward slightly, water slowly pours out from the bottom of the machine on to the floor. Not from the drain, but actually from the bottom of the machine. I am assuming this is not supposed to happen!

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    So I stumped up for the Bosch engineer visit, and thought I’d post here rather than leave the issue unresolved.

    The beeps we were hearing represented E28 and E29 error codes. These translate as ‘I’m getting crap data from the flow meter’ and ‘I’m getting no data from the flow meter’.

    So our “low pressure” warnings are really the machine not getting flow data from the sensor, and switching to a pressure-based, less efficient method of filling the machine.

    Regarding the issue with the drying being soaked – the last stage of the drying cycle is using water to fluff clean the outer drum. However, because it’s getting dodgy data from the flow rate sensor, it’s using too much water during this stage and it’s getting into the inner drum and soaking the clothes.

    Therefore a new pump and sensor unit is the cure, which will cost £100 on top of the £99 call out fee. Not too bad considering what a new air condensing washer dryer costs these days. I don’t particularly like the fact that Bosch machines tend to build everything in modules – meaning we can’t just replace the sensor – but I guess it makes things easier to fit. Fix in 1-2 weeks to get parts in, and the washing cycles are still fine to use in the meantime.

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    electrofix wrote:its ok this weather you can put you food in a freezer box outside as its so cold it cant get any warmer

    Dave

    True…… I don’t have a freezer box though….. I was doing some further research on the internet and came across this vid: –

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqK0HMgzVmY

    was wondering if it could possibly be the Thermal Fuse in the Freezer Compartment?

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    electrofix wrote:have you tried a total defrost ?

    was wondering if the fan in the freezer was either not working or blocked with ice

    to do a total defrost it needs to be off with thye doors open for 2 days

    Dave


    Hi Dave,

    I have not tried a total defrost, the fan is fine and fully working though…..I may try a total defrost at some point when I don’t have as much food in the fridge…

    in reply to: Water Pressure query #473537
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    [delete post]

    in reply to: Ice/frost on interior back wall #470999
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    Thanks for the reply.

    The issue I’m having is that it builds up frost every day and then at night it melts and then the next start day it builds up again and keeps repeating. I had a fridge for over 25 years and it only started building up frost towards the end of its life. However the engineer says it normal with new fridges. I was hoping to find out if this is the case.

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    Thanks Dave, that’s reassuring news. And good to know why it does it!

    in reply to: Lamona Oven Cooling Fan Runs Constantly #469723
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    Is there anything i can check with a multimeter to give your more info?

    in reply to: Lamona Oven Cooling Fan Runs Constantly #469722
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    Hi Dave,

    I uploaded a few photos so You can see the components.

    The top oven cooling fan is the one running constantly.

    I followed the dark pink wire to the stat and removed one connector leg, powered up and no functions work.

    Tried the other leg and no functions work.

    The stat at the rear (three blue wires) is the same when i try each leg inturn. No functions.

    Any idea? Thanks

    I only can use the oven functions when all connections are in place, however the display reads no error codes and the cooling fan is constantly running.

    Thank you

    in reply to: Lamona Oven Cooling Fan Runs Constantly #469721
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    in reply to: Lamona Oven Cooling Fan Runs Constantly #469719
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    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for your quick response,

    When you say open circuit? Do you mean that at room temperature the stat should not have continunity? Ie not a closed circuit?

    Is this the same for the other stat?

    Should i replace both, as both at room temperature have continunity?

    Thank you in advance?

    Are there any other components i should check when i take out the oven today?

    Thanks

    in reply to: Lamona Oven Cooling Fan Runs Constantly #469717
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    in reply to: Electrolux ER3262BN(S) fridge-freezer replacement PCB #466318
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    Thank you Don. I will take your advice and look for a Miele…someone at home will be very happy!

    in reply to: Electrolux ER3262BN(S) fridge-freezer replacement PCB #466316
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    don wrote:The two digits are important as it gives the version number of your appliance. There are in fact two different modules used on that machine so the two digits are important.

    That said the price of the modules are about the £150 mark as as Bob says It could become a “money pit.” The machine is well past it’s life date as well being a circa 2004 model. I would cut your losses and replace it.

    Don

    don wrote:The two digits are important as it gives the version number of your appliance. There are in fact two different modules used on that machine so the two digits are important.

    That said the price of the modules are about the £150 mark as as Bob says It could become a “money pit.” The machine is well past it’s life date as well being a circa 2004 model. I would cut your losses and replace it.

    Don

    No one will believe me when I say that the last two digits simply are not there. I emailed a photo of the fridge tag to both Electrolux and a spare parts reseller, but neither can I shed any light on the matter. I have tried and failed to upload an attachment of the photo here in case it means anything to you or Bob, or someone else looking at this forum. The error I get is “Invalid Server Response. Try again”. So I have instead copied the information off the fridge tag line for line:

    Brand: Electrolux
    Fridge-Freezer Frost Free
    Product number: 928405352
    Type: 8406357
    Serial number: 31500028
    System: K
    Class SN/N/ST

    There is also the single digit “3” at the top right hand corner of the data plate

    Please note that there is no further 0, 1, 2, or 3 at the end of the 9-diigt product number given above.

    I do see that a new fridge will probably be the solution; there are plenty of models to choose from even if they now all have built-in obsolescence. The frost-free versus “cyclical” debate for the fridge seems to be rather controversial with the former easier to maintain although it dries the food out a bit more, and the latter less easy to maintain although it dries the food out a bit less…according to the non-experts…

    Thank you both for your help in any case.

    RE

    in reply to: Electrolux ER3262BN(S) fridge-freezer replacement PCB #466315
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    SAMURI wrote:What makes you think the problem is a PCB as it is not a common fault on this model for the PCB to fail ?
    As a PCB is not cheap it’s better to test other things first before you assume the PCB is faulty as you may end up with a money pit.
    Spending a fortune on spares for an older appliance or its possible a much cheaper part is required.
    Bob

    A technician came to look at the fridge and quoted a price of £300 to return and make the repair…

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 12,518 total)