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Want a tragic story?! After spending hours cleaning up this badly neglected oven all was well. Final step was to put the smaller lower door back on. We had put some sample new floor tiles down and I tripped up over these whilst walking towards the oven to fit the door. Front glass and handle smashed.
Not sure the exact parts are still sold and even if it were the handle might be £80 and the glass £200. Ug! Might as well buy a new oven of a less exotic brand. Handle could perhaps be araldited.
Will be looking out for a s/h door or glass off eBay or begging a neighbour with a similar oven who might be thinking of upgrading. There are about 30 houses in the road all with these appliances, although many will have already upgraded.
Had another look at it and there are similar white deposits around the clamp, which looks like thin jubilee clip of huge diameter with a screw tightener. Will simply tightening up the clamp fix this?
Meant to ask something else. In the base there is a heavy layer of white deposits that might be soap or corrosion. It’s clearly been leaking quite a bit of water into the drip tray, which presumably the emergency drain arrangement has been clearing or its just been evaporating. If this is due to a lack of sealing between the drain sump and the tank how easy is it to tighten up the seal holding them together? Or does it need a whole new seal? Not sure the machine is really worth saving if it needs a major dismantle to change this seal. Or is there another likely suspect for this leaking?
Seal 081708 and clamp 081709 seem to be the ones. Both out of stock. I did see a generic set advertised but was not sure they fitted this model and looked more like 2 gaskets or O rings that were clamped with self tapping screws.
If it has failed I guess it’s not that difficult to take a generic thermostat such as https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostatic-switches/0339308/ or even https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostatic-switches/7334723/ (need to find one of the right temperature and NO or NC contacts) and sticking it with heat conducive epoxy to the old mounting or to the flat surface under the tank. Don’t suppose professional repairers are allowed to do this as it is using non-official parts.
It’s so old that does not seem many parts are still in stock.
One thing that occurs to me is that I have some powdered graphite. If I sprinkle that onto the old grease and work it in it should add lubricity although it will make the grease even thicker so might be counterproductive.
Had to take a Stanley knife type paint scraper to the inside glass to remove the carbon as caustic soda alone did not remove it all.
Not sure if the oven is catalytic. A neighbour should know.
You are not wrong about the plastic! I snapped one catch before I got to posting here.
Diagram very useful thanks. My 3rd stat is item 10 on the second page, which is a 65C one here https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/bosch/dishwasher/cg200/parts/ys70382/bosch-cg200-dishwasher-temperature-regulator-BSH022480.aspx It is screwed in. Can’t find it in the price list on your link. The only stat listed in the price list is +0061 which I can’t find on the diagram or elsewhere using google.
Please can you explain how that list works as the numbers like +0061 on the left hand side don’t seem to link to any other number there. And the part numbers in the middle are very hard to match to the diagram as there is no search facility for them that I can find and they are not in number order. There is search box there but it never turns up anything. Also clicking on a part in the diagram does not jump to the part’s price like it does on some similar diagrams I have seen.
What I think might have happened is that the machine sitting idle caused the programmer’s main heater contact to jam up. By my using it again it freed itself up by the time it got to the drying cycle.
But that does to explain the thin wires on the 65C stat as there is no relay I can see that can translate the smaller current in this stat into heater current. Also it seems to be open circuit all the time.
If the Programmer is sticky how realistic is it to prise it apart and clean up the cams and switches? I fear a mighty ping as all the bits fly everywhere. And a new programmer at £120 is not worth it, considering the machines age.
Pretty impressive that, of the 4 Neff kitchen appliances that the builder put in 23 years ago, all but this dishwasher seem to work well. All the neighbours have them too and likely will report the same.
Many thanks. It is hard to gets the sensor at an exact temperature but by putting a litre of kettle water into the sump with my thermocouple I could get it within about 2 degrees. I then measured at the disconnected control panel end of the wire around 4850 +/-100 ohms at 25C and 1339 at 54C. So seems correct. I am tempted to temporarily add 20-50 ohm in series to fool the controller into thinking a real 55C is apparently around 60C. Then it should shut off the heater before any over temperature trip. But that won’t help if it’s a failure to rise at the right rate. Looks to me like an overheat sensor calibration fault.
I assume the table above is for the resistance at the terminals of the sensor and not at the thermistor. There will be a slight difference as I noted that there is a fixed resistor on the sensor’s PCB in series with the thermistor. E.g. 4850 ohm at 25C looks to me like a standard 4700 ohm thermistor in series with 150 ohm.
PS That graph was for a Auto programme. It should carry on working for around 120 minutes but has triggered the i60 code and stopped running after about 45 minutes.
Re: AEG dishwasher F45010W0 control module dead
Have fitted a new IC and VDR and all is well. The IC was probably the only failed or partially failed component. Did not change the diodes as could not get the right ones quickly.
As a reliability and safety engineer am a little surprised that this IC is a problem compared with all the other suspects like motors, pumps, heaters and triacs that I’d think were more likely to fail. Maybe the power supply circuit design is flawed, like being so cost minimised they have scrimped on reliability; nothing 50p extra could not have solved.
Re: AEG dishwasher F45010W0 control module dead
The VDRs measure on a DMM as 5M ohm or more so are presumably either OK or so blasted with spikes that they are now open circuit and unable to absorb any more spikes. Can’t tell which. When temporarily directly connected across mains they do not blow any fuses.
Re: AEG dishwasher F45010W0 control module dead
Great reply thanks. Yes it’s a resistor in series with live mains feeding a VDR to neutral and a diode to the capacitor.
The 3rd resistor band is dark brown now and could be burnt black or discoloured brown.
Think I will change the VDR too as lightning could have damaged it. They are only good for a certain amount of spike(s).There are 2 other VDRs near some triacs that presumably switch the pumps. Anyone aware how to test a VDR other than a resistance check?
As an aside how does the air heating work that dries the plates at end of cycle? No sign of a heater other than the tubular water one in water pipe. Also it’s supposed to condense the water driven off in this drying and don’t see how that works.Re: Neff integrated dishwasher not washing properly
I think my original diagnosis was wrong. Diverter was not stuck between the 2 arms. I mistook the lack of spray arm going round as a sign that something was blocked or not pumping. But now I know there is a diverter device I realise that the lack of rotation was just because the water was currently going to the other arm. Have stripped and reassembled it and the arms are now working perfectly.
But apart from once having a 10 second burst near beginning of 35C cycle I have not had any water heating in many attempts with different types of cycles. This is worse than it was before.I have checked all the heater circuit continuity of element, flow/pressure micro switch and even changed the heater relay on the PCB. Also checked for dry joints and found none. I later had spoofed the NTC temperature sensor to make the PCB think the water was cooler than it is. Still no heating.
I have tried the diverter gear in 3 of its 4 positions and it makes no or undetectable difference to the cycle of spray patterns.
So I don’t think it is the diverter or element that is faulty. What about one of:-
1) When checking the NTC I dropped it in water accidentally. The resulting water inside could have caused a partial short from the live terminals of the overheat stat in there to the NTC side which is at 1-2 volts. This could have damaged the input to the processor on the PCB so it can no longer measure temperature. It still does to work after drying it out.
2) Anther PCB fault that was originally causing faulty heating (hence the low wash performance) and now has stopped all heating. And/or it was only dirt build up that was the original problem and now I have killed it somehow.
With control PCBs being so expensive I’d rather get a new machine that buy a PCB.
Re: Neff integrated dishwasher not washing properly
Where can I buy the little white plastic clips and stainless steel screws that hold the sump assembly onto the metal case? Mine only has 2 clips but there are 3 positions for them, so I assume one is lost.
Now run a 50C wash and it is not heating the water at all (or for such short periods that it has little effect) despite the element and the microswitch near to it having the correct continuity/resistance. Did not attempt to get to the drying stage. My possible diagnosis would be:-
The diverter disc, when in certain positions, completely blocks the water to both arms. Thus there is little/no flow though the heater in these positions. It would thus be dangerous to power the heater when flow is blocked as rapidly overheats. So the purpose of the cam and switch may be to detect whether the flow is blocked and disable the heater. If true I have the diverter disc in wrong poison. Problem is there are 3 more positions to try and it is a fairly long job to remove the base of machine to access the diverter. Is there an easier way to get the alignment right first time?
Re: Neff integrated dishwasher not washing properly
I dismantled the diverter valve and it seems all OK with no cogs worn and machine does now run through an apparently OK cycle with both spray bars turning alternately. But I note that diverter can be assembled with the water control disc in 4 different positions which means the relationship between the disc and the cam that operates the switch by gears can be 4 different ones. How do I get it right? There is little hole in one gear that seems an alignment mark but not sure what to aligh it with.
Although the machine does now run OK it is a very short cycle at 20 mins and does not dry. Also not absolutely sure it is heating the water. Why no dry?
First time I ran it I opened the door a lot to check the arms were rotating. This seemed to upset the cycle a lot. I thought opening the door had no effect?
Had a lot of fat stuck in various places which may hav been the problem originally. Needed a hot wash with some cleaner.
