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Re: Neff integrated dishwasher not washing properly
Dave,
Many thanks – If I open the door when the machine is running water is seen coming out of the nozzles in the upper arm. I will check the specific machine number as you request – again many thanks
Firefighter
My S5443X2GB/44 is very similar. Top tray not washing well and when door opened water is coming out of the top spay bar nozzles but not always fast enough to turn the bar. It does sometimes turn (perhaps on rinse cycles when the water is less dirty and hence flows faster?).
Does not seem to be lot of water in it; after letting it drain down the spray bars it’s just up to the base of the salt cap mid way though the overall cycle.
It is about 9 years old. The top bar holes are not blocked and I have cleaned out the filters etc. although it is hard to clean out the slots that lead from the filter cavity to the pump.
On a separate issue this machine suffers from having one very long 50C cycle and one very short 35C one with no medium cycle. I’d rather have a medium cycle than the short one. Is it possible to change the 35C thermostat for say a 40 or 45C one so I would get a 40/45C medium cycle instead? I am an electronic engineer so feel I could make this change if feasible. Can I buy a suitable thermostat from you? Or does it use one sensor to measure both temperatures, in which case it would need an electronic tweak to alter the temperature?
Re: Leaking Bosch SGS43T72U (1998)
Thanks for reply. Turned out it was the inlet pipe not quite tight at the tap. Somehow the drip was running down the outside of the pipe and ending up at the front of the machine even though the floor is level. Probably running along the side of adjacent kitchen cabinet.
Re: AEG LAV50500 programmer errors
Thanks for replies but not sure I understand them. If the door switch is intermittent I’d understand the cycle would not start until maybe the door is closed again. But why, if the cycle did not start, despite reclosing the door, would it then start when I click the knob around, as surely the door switch would still be telling the programmer not to start any actions? Or does the programmer not read the door switch at all positions of the knob?
Re: AEG LAV50500 programmer errors
No one got a reply?
Another symptom my mother reports is that the door sometimes needs closing twice before it starts the programme. If there was a loose /dirty contact in programmer I can see that the slamming of the door the second time might provide the vibration needed to get the contact to connect. But I can not replicate this door problem.
Re: AEG door seal replacement
Many thanks, I did not find it that difficult, although replacing the outer band took 4 hands. I did take the top and front off to ease access.
But after all that I got the programming errors mentioned in another recent post here. Not sure if they were caused by the repair work or were there already and I made them worse.
Re: AEG LAV50500 programmer errors
Not sure my mother’s first statement is credible; more likely it did not advance once the cycle was started.
Is it possible the fault is just one/some contacts in the programmer sometimes not touching and that it could be fixed by cleaning or adjusting these contacts? It does seem to have behaved inconsistently recently which matches up with contacts sometimes connecting and sometimes not.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
Think I spoke too soon. With the new brushes in place the machine is making an intermittent buzzing noise, mainly on spinning, that sounds just like the arcing that was going on upon spinning when the old brushes were short and hardly touching the commutator. But could be just 2 things I did not quite tiewrap right rubbing together.
Also there is srong strange but not unpleasant smell. It’s not ozone from arcing brushes or burning plastic but a sort of sweet solvent smell. I have recently used your special cleaner stuff in it at enormous temperature, like 90C, and wonder if this could have affected something.
Any clues?
Otherwise runs well.
Re: Washing machine size
I was going on the sizes given in last Which? magazine article. They do tend to review high end models which are the larger ones. But when I looked in Currys I also saw many larger ones.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
Got the brushes and all is now well so many thanks for help.
I also found that the little resistor inside one of the front panel lights had come loose. No amount of bending of brass strips got it to hold firm so I soldered it to the brass.
Re: Ariston A1535 nearly dead
I cleaned the edge connectors everywhere and it slightly improved. But the real problem seems to be worn motor brushes, when I jiggle them about a bit it works for a little while.
So will be ordering new brushes if you guys stock them.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
After 3 months of flawless opetion it’s playing up again. Symptoms, each time I try to use it are, one or more of:-
1) After running all or part of a programme the dial clicks around endlessly.
2) Will not start at all.
3) It will fill then fail to rotate the drum or do anything else; sticks at first dial position.
Can’t tell you the number of light flashes as that lamp is dead (probably just the bulb). I might swap it for the other one.
Does this sound like a oxidisation on the edge connectors? Or worn motor brushes ? But they looked good 3 months ago.
I am saving the pennies.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
After a lot of poking around and testing with a multimeter, and removing the PCB for a check with a magnifying glass to see if there are any dry joints, I could not find anything wrong with it. So I reassembled it ready to take it to tip, turned it on and it works! No idea what I did to repair it unless there was some loose joint that I disturbed or the effective general reboot has cleared the fault.
Only thing that appears not to work is the power light but I can live with that.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
Thanks for advice. It’s lasted 5 years of heavy use and I have had to replace the bearings and twice fixed worn through hoses to the level switch.
So it’s not great as you say.
Re: Ariston A1535 completely dead
I have traced some wiring and found 240 VAC at the input to the small transformer on the control PCB. I fear, as there seem to be no outputs to any lights or motors from this PCB, that the PCB has a fault. Am I right? Could a repairer be able to read anything off the diagnostics connector if the PCB was dead?
On the other hand maybe some sensor/switch is dead so overriding all these outputs as a safety measure, e.g. pressure switch, heater overtemp switch, etc?
