gegsy

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Viewing 15 posts - 3,826 through 3,840 (of 6,724 total)
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  • in reply to: Philips,Whirlpool ADP279 #192682
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Philips,Whirpool ADP279

    Hi Jim

    You have mail 😉


    Greg

    in reply to: Another bird doing tricks! #192549
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Another bird doing tricks!

    Me Martin, but was too scared to ask as it was a private video 😆 didn’t know what it might entail 8)

    Greg

    in reply to: “Ooooh Matron” ? #164820
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Number 2 is watching.

    Looks like I will become public enemy No1 again, oh well sh!t happens 😆
    http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … 598#104598
    Removed a post by Serr this morning

    Hi colleagues,
    Greetings from Russia!
    6 months ago, I encountered the same problem with my Bosch KGV3604 and successfully solved it. As the solution was somehow different (and more advanced) 8), I’d like to share my experience. Those who know Russian may look at http://monitor.espec.ws/section7/topic63722.html and around there.

    In short, the faulty NTC thermistor measures the temperature of the evaporator behind the back wall of the cooling compartment. Its resistance should be 16.33 kOhms at 0 Celsius and 5 kOhms at 25 Celsius. The fridge controller switches compressor ON when thermistor resistance goes below 15 kOhm (evaporator temperature above +3 degrees Celsius). As the thermistor degrades over time, its resistance increases due to worsening contact. At some moment it fails to go below 15 kOhms and so the compressor does not switch on anymore.
    The idea is to replace the faulty thermistor. The original part is EPCOS M2020, it is located in a channel in the evaporator.
    If you are still able to start your fridge, you can find the exact location of the channel. Look at the back wall inside the cooling compartment and note the lower edge of the frosted zone. The evaporator channel is about 1 inch above this level.
    Now
    1. UNPLUG your fridge
    2. Go to the back side of the fridge.
    3. At the LEFT side of the back (looking from the back of the fridge), cut a “door” of about 5 by 5 inch in the back covering around the level you found. The covering is essentially a foiled cardboard, so a sharp knife is enough.
    4. Peel off and open the “door” (do not cut it off completely) and dig out the PU foam in this area. At the depth of some 3 inches, you should see the edge of the evaporator (made of steel) and a pair of wires entering a horizontal channel in the evaporator from the left. Pull the wires and see what you get.

    I got a green plastic cylinder of about 3/8 by 1 1/4 inches filled with rubber, with thermistor pellet inside the rubber. The rubber was in a very bad condition and thermistor contacts were detached from the pellet. The degradation was possibly due to moisture (PU foam is not moisture-proof) and alkaline medium (there was a distinct ammonia-like smell).
    As I could not find the original EPCOS M2020 sensor, I took two miniature high-precision EPCOS S863 thermistors of 10 kOhms @ 25 Celsius (there is a 5 kOhm version, but the shop did not have it), joined them in parallel, sealed them with epoxy, smeared with silicon sealant and put into a heat-shrinkable tube. Maybe a little excessive, but I did not like what happened to the original sensor. This gave me a resistance of exactly 16.33 kOhms @ 0 C (measured in mixture of ice and water).
    I soldered the wires of my new sensor to the fridge wires, sealed the joints with silicon and heat-shrinkable tubes and inserted the harness back into the evaporator channel. Then, I foamed the dug-out space with PU foam, cut the foam flush with the back surface, closed the “door” in the covering cardboard, and sealed the whole area with aluminium tape.
    After 6 months, the fridge works OK: about 50 minutes ON, then 50 minutes OFF, etc. It survived this very hot summer without any problems.
    The solution is a little risky, but if you feel confident – good luck! Do not forget to UNPLUG your fridge!

    Way too indepth for public forum 😀
    PM sent to clarify the guidlines 😉
    Greg

    in reply to: Cheap Labour #192635
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Cheap Labour

    Its scary dontcha think 😯

    Greg

    in reply to: Smeg Oven Model: SUK90MFX #192638
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Smeg Oven Model: SUK90MFX

    Hi
    Is the oven door sealing tightly I wonder? It should close with a THUD and have no “play once closed.

    Greg

    in reply to: AMANA spare parts? #192502
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: AMANA spare parts?

    welsh__boy wrote:Don’t say you’ve got a diagram?

    Sorry list only

    I’ve noticed you’re from Wales, whereabouts? Sunny south or up north?

    Up North 😆

    Greg

    in reply to: Relevant? #192542
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Relevant?

    Hi Martin
    Do you mean the connection as in the way Dave has answered, or do you mean a connection to UKW ?

    Greg

    in reply to: Bosch fridge-freezer KGE7005/02 compressor fault comand #192177
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Bosch fridge-freezer KGE7005/02 compressor fault comand

    Hi

    I don’t think thats recommended, although you could look for 2 black diodes on that module that look like they have scorched the PCB board below them, and replace them. Before you ask I have no idea what type/ value they are 😀

    Greg

    in reply to: Neff integrated Fridge freezer #192623
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Neff integrated Fridge freezer

    Smirnoff wrote:I have a Neff integrated fridge and freezer (K9625XOGB/31 FD8112).
    I thought that first of all the freezer was starting to get a bit frozen up (should be frost free)

    Nope, conventional freezer, will require manual defrost periodically.
    As for seals, follow the Penguin 😆

    Greg

    in reply to: Bosch WFF2000 fast spin in wash cycle #192602
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WFF2000 fast spin in wash cycle

    Jo0Lz wrote:Any idea of a ball park figure it woud be to repair?

    Well Timer/Module is app £150+ VAT, Motor is approx £140 +VAT, then the engineers labour.

    Greg

    in reply to: AMANA spare parts? #192500
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: AMANA spare parts?

    Hi

    Shield Spill -12160602
    Lamp Lense – R9900114
    Plastic screws – For what?
    Bulb – M0360402
    Door Inner – R0150148
    Magnatron – D7831007
    Capacitor – 59001651

    Greg

    in reply to: Another joke. #137276
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Another joke.

    1st man: Hi! My name is Fred.
    2nd man: Hi! I’m Cyril. How’d you die?

    1st man: I froze to death.
    2nd man: How horrible!

    1st man:
    It wasn’t so bad. After I quit shaking from the cold, I
    began to get warm & sleepy, and finally died a peaceful death. What
    about you?

    2nd man: I died of a massive heart attack. I suspected that my
    wife was cheating, so I came home early to catch her in the act.
    But instead, I found her all by herself watching TV.

    1st man: So, what happened?
    2nd man: I was so sure there was another man there somewhere that
    I started running all over the house looking. I ran up into the attic
    and searched, and down into the basement. Then I went through every
    closet and checked under all the beds. I kept this up until I had
    looked everywhere, and finally I became so exhausted that I just
    keeled over with a heart attack and died.

    1st man: Too bad you didn’t look in the freezer—we’d both still be>
    alive!

    😆

    in reply to: Bosch fridge-freezer KGE7005/02 compressor fault comand #192175
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Bosch fridge-freezer KGE7005/02 compressor fault comand

    Hi
    Just replace the PCB, job done 8)

    Greg

    in reply to: samsung #192612
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: samsung

    I would go direct with Samsung, as the pricing tier is a little more favourable 8)

    Greg

    in reply to: Bosch WFF2000 fast spin in wash cycle #192600
    gegsy
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WFF2000 fast spin in wash cycle

    Hi
    Its either a tacho fault on the motor or a faulty timer/module.
    Personally I would get an engineer to confirm as if misdiagnosed,you will be left with a very expensive spare.
    Please use the link below if necessary to find a local engineer.

    Greg

Viewing 15 posts - 3,826 through 3,840 (of 6,724 total)