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Re: Hotpoint Aquarius WDF740 soap dispenser removal.
Voila, indeed. Simples once you realise that the tray slides along the door on tracks you don’t know are there until you’ve found them, as it were 🙂 I’m actually finding it easier to apply backward pressure on the end of the open door with the base of my thumb while using my fingers to pull the tray forward. Thanks for the help, Muv and Martin.
Re: Hotpoint Aquarius WDF740 soap dispenser removal.
Thanks. I’ve tried following that diagram several times but all I ever manage to do is further open the drawer just enough to be able to remove the blue conditioner channel cover so that I can at least get rid of the build up there. I assume the whole unit is supposed to come out, complete with its hinged front cover, but I’m already applying rather more forward pressure than I’m comfortable with and I’m worried I might break the hinge pin if I get any more forceful.
Edit: Looking at your earlier answer, I’m now thinking that only a section of the dispenser comes out and that the front cover remains in place so that, if I’m pulling on the hinge pin, I’m pulling in the wrong place. I’ll have another look. Does the crossbar come out.
Re: Hotpoint WD420 Washer/Dryer problems
magglyn wrote:Here’s a tip to help you get the machine out.
Spray the floor in front of the machine with ‘Pledge’ ‘Mr Sheen’ or any other cheap polish, these all contain silicone and make the floor slippery. Open the door, put your foot against the base of the machine, tip the machine slightly forward and pull. You will find that it comes out easily. To put it back, spray polish from where the feet sit to the wall.
Will it be necessary for me to clean up the polish after I put the machine back?Meanwhile, I ran another 95° wash today but cancelled it after 25 minutes by which time the water was quite warm. I guess the wash heater element is OK. Thanks, iadom.
Re: Hotpoint WD420 Washer/Dryer problems
Some new information, some errors corrected.
john_o wrote:
iadom wrote:
By number from top down, which of the left hand, vertical lights was flashing?Correction: It was the horizontal Door Locked, Dry and Power on/off lights which were flashing. The vertical lights stayed off.
I ran another 30 minute Dry program today. Unlike last week, it went through all the motions, but with the three lights flashing together occasionally during the first half hour or so but then coming back on continuously for around another half hour so that the program eventually took 50 minutes to complete. The drum was still cold when the Door Locked light eventually went out to signal the end of the run.
The heater for the dryer is a totally different part to the wash heater.
Scale build up makes little or no difference to wash heater replacement. It is quite a fiddly job to get the old heater out irrespective of the area you live in as regards water softness.
The element is not expensive and you would be likely to get this repaired by a local independent for less than the £104.97 the Indesit Company will charge you.
The local UK Appliances shop is quoting £39.50 + VAT for a diagnosos, + the cost of any parts, ie no further call out charges until the problem is fixed. I still need to be sure that one or both of the elements is/are at fault first.[quote:3744wajq]If the wash heater is faulty the machine should not complete the wash cycle. Try it with no clothes or detergent in on a 60° or a 95° to check out the wash heater properly.
I tried that and the program ran to completion. I then found the drum to be cold but, as there is a cold fill and rinse in there somewhere, I guess this isn’t surprising. Meanwhile, I detected no sign that the machine had heated up during the wash and I could detect no warmth in either the door glass (it is double skinned, though) or the waste hose during or after the wash. I’ll have another go and stop the program in mid wash, then drain the machine and cancel the program to see if the drum then feels any warmer.Re: Supply & fit new washing machine
iadom wrote:I have posted your request in the trade forums, hopefully someone will respond. 🙂
Oops, sorry 😳
Re: Hotpoint WD420 Washer/Dryer problems
iadom wrote:By number from top down, which of the left hand, vertical lights was flashing?
It was the horizontal Door Locked, Rinse & Spin and Dry lights (over the central wash temperature and dryer control knobs) which were flashing.
The heater for the dryer is a totally different part to the wash heater.
Scale build up makes little or no difference to wash heater replacement. It is quite a fiddly job to get the old heater out irrespective of the area you live in as regards water softness.
The element is not expensive and you would be likely to get this repaired by a local independent for less than the £104.97 the Indesit Company will charge you.
I need to be sure that the element is at fault first.If the wash heater is faulty the machine should not complete the wash cycle. Try it with no clothes or detergent in on a 60° or a 95° to check out the wash heater properly.
I’ll try that.
Or remove the mains plug and test the element with a suitable megger or multimeter.
Slight problem in that I’m under treatment for what I’m hoping will turn out to be a severe case of sciatica so I’m going to struggle to get the machine out of it’s cubby hole under the worktop. If I can do this, though, are you suggesting I remove the back panel to get at the element?
Re: Supply & fit new washing machine
Roger645 wrote:We have a rental property and the existing machine is faulty and we’d like to get it changed.
Surely, this is the landlord’s responsibility. If you, as a tenant, improve the facilities in a rented property, your landlord might decide the rent should go up and if you change out the the machine you will possibly have to leave the new one behind if you move on. Depends on how often the landlord inspects his property and how long you plan to stay there, I guess.
Re: Belling E641 – Damaged Grill Element
Yoss wrote:… not exactly the same size as the Belling original. It protrudes about half a CM more at the front which makes it a rather tight and unsteady fit.
Just a little FYI…
Thanks for the warning. I’m planning on getting an Indesit compatible element from the same site and am feeling my way wrt what to expect when I try to fit it. Can I ask you to please elaborate on what you mean by rather a tight and unsteady fit? Might it be better for me to get the proper, more expensive element from Hotpoint (Indesit)?Re: Indesit FM 20 K.C GB (P640 A GB) oven grill element
iadom wrote:Its usually best to remove the bracket if possible. Once the securing screws or bolts holding the element in at the back are removed it should pull forwards with very little force needed.
Pulling to hard may risk the wiring becoming dislodged and falling back inside the back panel which would mean you would have to remove the unit from the housing.
Sorry, I was wrong when I said the grill element was positioned above a steel bracket. What I referred to as a bracket is in fact a transverse rod which is an integral part of the element (as shown in your link) and which sits on small ledges on either side of the oven, thereby providing support. Where the element disappears through the back wall of the oven, it has small metal plates which keep it in position and which unfortunately seem to be held in place by thin screws inserted from behind the back wall (ie I can see a thread on the small sections of screw which protrude inside the oven). As such, I have to assume that the oven must be removed before the element can be changed :taz:I loosened the four screws securing the oven to the carcase of its kitchen unit this evening and was easily able to slide the unit part of the way out. I’m a little bit wary of the fact that there is a separate Indesit gas hob located immediately above the oven but I’m fairly confident I can proceed with ordering a replacement element now. There will be a delay because I will be away for a few days at the end of next week but I will report back on the eventual outcome. Thanks for your help so far.
Re: Indesit FM 20 K.C GB (P640 A GB) oven grill element
iadom wrote:Thats about the size of it. Take care not to loose the cables as you disconnect them.
Some grill elements can be replaced without having to remove the unit from the housing at all. Not sure about this one but looking at it there is a good chance it will.If this element can be removed with the oven in situ, should it just take a steady firm pull to dislodge it? This could be possible since the element itself sits over a stainless steel bracket crossing from one side of the oven to the other up near the top. I’ll have a look later. Thanks.
Re: Indesit FM 20 K.C GB (P640 A GB) oven grill element
iadom wrote:A1. Yes.
A2. Yes.
A3. Yes.
Be sure to isolate from the mains first. 😉
Thanks for the link. How easy will it be to fit a new grill element once I isolate the oven and remove it from its housing? Is it just a matter of undoing any fixing nuts, replacing the element and then re-securing the nuts, ensuring I make a note of how the supply cables are connected before I remove the original fitting?
Re: How do I remove Xpelair unit front cover?
Cracked it 😀
What I thought were plastic lugs at the top and bottom of the unit turned out to be steel retaining clips and, by pushing them inwards in turn, I was able to pull the face plate slightly away from the back plate. The back plate then started twisting rather alarmingly, partly because it was only fixed to the wall using two screws and partly because three pins, fixed to the front plate and slotted into holes in the back plate to provide an electrical supply, were a tight fit and required some force to extract them. A more forceful pull that I had previously used soon did the trick.
If anyone is interested, the extractor model number is DX100T. I would be quite interested in knowing when this was last available from Xpelair.
