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Shuddering sounds mechanical?
It may be a compressor fault or possibly a bad electrical connection/switching fault.
It will need an expert to have a look imho.I had a similar problem on my Liebherr fridge freezer as the freezer was ok but the fridge was warm. It turned out to be low on refrigerant. I topped mine up as an experiment and it works ok now if a little too cool.
Trouble with refrigeration is its a bit of a black art with special tools unless its a thermostat fault!
Is the stat a capillary type with a copper bulb on the end or an electrical wire with a plastic bulb?
I can’t recomend you change anything electrical yourself but it does sound like a thermostat problem to me?You are going to need the electrics checked first, could be a faulty stat etc. An electrician could check the compressor is getting power or not in 5 minutes which would then help decide if its an electrical fault or refrigeration problem, neither of which most people can repair themselves.
Maybe the drain hole is blocked?
I use a long nylon cable tie and a little bleach to clean mine out.I’m no expert!
Does the display show ‘actual’ temperatures or set temperatures?
If the compressor is running but not cooling the unit then maybe lack of refrigerant or faulty compressor, either job requires expert tools and knowledge in my humble experience.I’m no expert!
Sounds like the fridge stat has failed and the compressor is running into overheat?
The fridge being too cold points to that?I’m no expert! But I have learned a bit while fixing my Liebherr fridge freezer!
If the compressor is running then the electrical side sounds ok, thermostat is calling.
The compressor has two pipes out, one is going to go to the condenser grille (high side) on the back of the unit, this should be warm coming out of the compressor, the other pipe is the return which should be cold.
If neither pipe is hot/cold then either the refrigerant has leaked or the compressor has failed.Just an update on this job, finally sourced some kit at reasonable prices to allow experimental work to determine fault. I am very careful as previously noted but would appreciate guidance?
The low side of my circuit was in vacuum so I have added some refrigerant to approximately 2 psi. (I’m only trying to prove if this unit is worth saving) and the fridge is now cooling its evaporator ok?
I do have the capacity to fully vacuum and refill by weight which I may do later but for now is there a psi value I can go by? The compressor is warm but not excessively so, the high side is hot but cool at the bottom of the condenser and the low side at the compressor is lightly frosted. I will have to see how it stabilizes after a few hours?
I’m interested to know if anybody braizes pipes on R600 units? Seems like a dangerous profession!!
If I need to permanently seal up the pipework does this require the crimping method or do you guys get out the torch?To add, fridge cooled and thermostat shut off and restarted so looks ok?
Frosting reduced on low side now, I am supposing that was normal while the compressor was working hard to initially cool the unit from room temperature?
Is it ‘normal’ for an R600 to need a refrigerant recharge after several years use? Or should I be looking for a leak with my lighter?More update, low side is still frosting.
Fridge temperature seems wide going from -1 to 6 degrees, is this right on an older model without auto defrost?
Seems to work ok apart from that?
May add that this could be a tropical model as it came from Australia, will that make a great deal of difference?Thanks for the heads up, I qualified as an explosive atmosphere electrician (Compex) testing aviation fuel storage, haven’t gone bang yet! I will be careful. ☠
Hmm, I think it may be low refrigerant then, im sure the fridge is warming slightly which I understand can happen when its low.
I will order a gauge and clamp connector and check it, thanks for the guidance.Thanks Tony! Is the evaporator sensor a capillary driven unit? That’s the only component I dont recognize if its a capilliry stapped around a bulb on a dead end length of pipe sticking out from the back?
Have I understood correctly the fridge only gets refrigerant once the freezer is down to temp?
So there is a capillary driven valve of some sort? There is no extra wiring there so I assume so…?
I dont really get why if I put the fridge sensor outside the cabinet the freezer can go to -22 degrees but the fridge stays cold, if it were low on gas or the compressor was weak would that happen?
Wishful thinking I suppose.
Do these capillary units fail and if so is it repairable on an old unit like this? I could spend a few quid on it rather then buy new.
cheers.Ok, this is weird, by placing the fridge sensor outside the fridge cabinet and keeping the freezer running it got to -22 degrees but the fridge is not cold?
what am I missing here?
I dont understand the process of cooling the fridge, however its done its not working!
Its an old model and I dont think it has a defrost heater unless someone can guide me?
Its a basic control system, I only see one sensor?
